When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For depreciation of a cardboard house on wheels I think that is excellent! I would do that swap in a minute, provided you didn't get hosed on the new one of course LOL.
I feel about as good as I can (about any transaction that involves my hard-earned currency), I don't pay "bust-out retail".
Our friends found a "NEW" untitled 2018 in Ashland, VA for $2,000 less with the auto leveling system, but our "friends" at Camping World only wanted to give $10,000 on the trade after tacking on their astronomical fees and having to deal with the Amazon of RV's I said, NO.
Originally Posted by WE3ZS
Congrats Mark, looking forward to seeing some pics of it and Rudolph together!
It seems like you did very well on the old TT, We can't believe that ours is now 5 years old, 5 more (or so) to go!
There is a hook eye on the factory bumper that I hook mine to, works perfectly.
Originally Posted by WE3ZS
Yep, same here, perfect spot for that cable.
Still doesn't have that little loop on the '18 though bumper though, same as the '08+ I guess in that regard.
I loop it through the reciever hitch chain hole and hook it back to itself. It's a pin with the carabiner I have on there but it is very secure.
Originally Posted by WE3ZS
Good for you! Nice new Jayco and PP, good luck and safe travels with them.
I don't mean to nit pick or criticize, just my curiosity. Are the add on shackles and additional chains rated the same as the factory safety chains? And where does the break away cable go to, I see it up by the trailer ball then it gets lost by the chains?
I was fortunate in that I was able to slightly rework where my TT seven pin cable mounted and that made it long enough to work without the extension.
Same question here about the add on chain and hardware, I had to search around a little for mine. I know you mentioned that the shot above was during the custom build but that break away cable really shouldn't be clipped to the hook, it needs to be attached to the truck to protect against a receiver failure and the hooks are backwards according to what I was shown by a PSP DOT Trooper, not sure if they would cite an RV for that but would be an issue for a commercial setup, not sure how much it matters with safety latched hooks in reality.......
I see that both of you are using wire bail pins to secure the TT ball latch to the PP/HA hitch, always good to have that latch positively secured but I use a padlock just to make it a little harder for someone else to enjoy my HA.
The shackles are rated more than the chain and more than link to link chain connectors which lead me to using the shackles in the first place. I would use a hitch lock but I have never owned one and don't really need another key to keep up with. Like we talked about in the other post I always hook the chains from the bottom to tow, but it was more difficult on the Excursion to unhook so for staging the trailer I just clip them on the loops. I move the trailer from around behind my house to the front drive before a trip. It's easier to load and has power connection for cooling the fridge, vacuuming etc. Most of the time I have to move the trailer around and then unhook to allow the wife to continue and use the truck the days before the trip.
I'll try and grab a pic of the setup on the new truck, we leave Wednesday for the annual Thanksgiving moto trip.
I cross my chains in case of failure to it could catch and keep the hitch of the ground.
Good point, ALL trailer safety chains should always be crossed. I think that both of the above pictured setup have the chains crossed, but with how so many trailers these days have the chains mounted very close together it is sometimes hard to tell if they are crossed and having them crossed isn't as effective at capturing the tongue in a failure event.
After this weekends trip to the beach I will be winterizing and cleaning everything out.
I don't really want to do this but the 15,000 A/C in the rear that came with the camper just doesn't output. I am sick and tired of Dometic A/C issues so I am going to have the dealer replace it with a Coleman, it ain't cheap!. There is an adapter kit to make the Coleman work with the Dometic thermostat and duct unit. My Dometic 13,500 that was replaced in the spring has a rattling fan, its warranty expires in January. I will put the camper in dealer jail for a couple of months (it may not take that long) to get this fixed. We have a Hunting Island, SC and a Key West trip planned for next summer and I need the A/Cs at 100%. I could do it myself but I have too many other things going on and with them doing it they are responsible if the system fails (again)!
After this weekends trip to the beach I will be winterizing and cleaning everything out.
I don't really want to do this but the 15,000 A/C in the rear that came with the camper just doesn't output. I am sick and tired of Dometic A/C issues so I am going to have the dealer replace it with a Coleman, it ain't cheap!. There is an adapter kit to make the Coleman work with the Dometic thermostat and duct unit. My Dometic 13,500 that was replaced in the spring has a rattling fan, its warranty expires in January. I will put the camper in dealer jail for a couple of months (it may not take that long) to get this fixed. We have a Hunting Island, SC and a Key West trip planned for next summer and I need the A/Cs at 100%. I could do it myself but I have too many other things going on and with them doing it they are responsible if the system fails (again)!
Have you done any type off "tent in the vent" mod to the plenum?
IMO none of the ducted units will cool properly with out it. It feels like I doubled the air volume when I did mine.
I have been looking at the Atwood Air Command units, although owned by Dometic I don't think they have trashed the brand yet.
Have you done any type off "tent in the vent" mod to the plenum?
IMO none of the ducted units will cool properly with out it. It feels like I doubled the air volume when I did mine.
I have been looking at the Atwood Air Command units, although owned by Dometic I don't think they have trashed the brand yet.
I have gone through the plenums sealing up all of the gaps and insulated all I can find but not the "tent in the vent" mod. I know the unit is not cooling well when the 15K can't handle the heat and the 13,500 can. The 15K was also freezing up even when running it on high fan. It didn't work well all last year, Dometic will not assist in the repair. If both units are on and working properly the camper cools down very quickly even in 100 degree weather.
Dometic should be ashamed of the units they sell, of course they sell a lot of units because of their terrible design. I look at older RVs and their old A/Cs keep cooling where those of us with newer units are replacing them multiple times.
Good for you! Nice new Jayco and PP, good luck and safe travels with them.
I don't mean to nit pick or criticize, just my curiosity. Are the add on shackles and additional chains rated the same as the factory safety chains? And where does the break away cable go to, I see it up by the trailer ball then it gets lost by the chains?
I was fortunate in that I was able to slightly rework where my TT seven pin cable mounted and that made it long enough to work without the extension.
The chain extensions were purchased through ProPride, but I do not know the exact rating in terms of strength, then there are the connectors I had to use in order to attach them to the factory chains, so I am sure something is weaker than factory :-(. Regarding the break away cable, in this pic it is on the hook for the safety chain as it did not have a separate hook from Jayco, but once I got home I installed a hook and clip it to the hitch separately from the safety chains.
The chain extensions were purchased through ProPride, but I do not know the exact rating in terms of strength, then there are the connectors I had to use in order to attach them to the factory chains, so I am sure something is weaker than factory :-(. Regarding the break away cable, in this pic it is on the hook for the safety chain as it did not have a separate hook from Jayco, but once I got home I installed a hook and clip it to the hitch separately from the safety chains.
Again, not to criticize, but clipping the safety cable to the little loop up under the bumper (I keep a small clip hanging from it to make it an easier find and hookup) will offer protection in the event of a receiver hitch failure vs clipping onto the hitch itself.
Here is a picture that show where the little loop (actually one on each side) is located and my little clip hanging from it. Attachment 281394
Good morning and Happy Thanksgiving from Carolina Beach State Park. Easy drive down to the NC coast yesterday, Ex pulled great as usual..
i tried to inflate the air bags a little more for perfect level but it causes the front to wander more. My Ex likes the tail down about 1 inch.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.