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Well... depends on the "girls" mostly. Water management is a conscious effort and good sensors tell you "when". I have an outside shower, and wash utensils outside too. If you go to well known campgrounds most have water an electric. If you camp off road you'll need good size tanks. My TT (Nash) is made for off road, fresh water is 65 gals, gray is around 45 and black the same.
Thanks for all the input everyone, that really helps a lot.
How would you determine the size of the tanks you need?
All the answers to your questions start with "depends". If you only go someplace with full hookups, tank size doesn't matter. If you are using out of the tank, then bigger is always better. Not like you must fill them full if you don't need it. You'll be at the mercy of what is available depending on brand and floorplan, anywhere from 30 gal to 90 or more. It is an adjustment from water usage at home, you always need to avoid wasting water.
I agree.. never buy new as a first timer.. infact.. even as a 3rd generation RVer i dont think i will ever buy new off the lot. buy it 1 year old from a first time buyer who didnt know any better.. there are a ton of layouts out there.. even better than the bunkhouse for young kids is our outside door direct to the bathroom!! worth a million dollars on the side of the road.. at the beach.. and any other messy campsite
Disclaimer +++++======= For whatever reason (pick one), I hate dealers. The inevitable feeling of they are ripping you off, the nearly universal **** poor customer service, the appalling lack of knowledge about their product and on down the line. How can you tell they are lying? Their lips are moving. ========= Rant End +++++++++++
I found my current trailer on craigslist. I knew the exact brand and model we wanted, so I just kept searching nationwide for it used. This one popped up 3 hours away, was 18 months old, stored indoors, used a few times and was like new. Persistence and patience paid off at 60% of the same model new.
Do go look at as many trailers as you can at dealers. New used, whatever. See if you can find a few models to search for. Looking at trailers one by one from private sellers will get old quick unless you can figure out what you like in advance.
Heartland is the same manufacture that made my Terry Classic. You can do as I did and visit their forum, "err rabbit hole", and take in information about the wilderness line as experienced by others.
You will be able to view posts, but not see pictures, or post if you don't create a profile. This helped me learn about what others had to say or complain about before I purchased mine.
Heartland has a forum for every brand they make.
We started in a very similar setup. Our kids are 7 and 5, they didn’t mind the dinette and fold out couch for a couple of summers. Mom and dad did though. Was a real pain to setup every night and take down the next morning. I ended up removing the couch and building bunks for that spot. Last winter I find our current camper for heap and in great shape. We bought a used Coachmen 323BHDS. I wouldn’t trade it for anything else at this point. Kids have their room, we have a walk around bed (I’m also 6’4”) and the outdoor kitchen is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
I would highly recommend a bunkhouse if the kids are saying in the camper frequenters.
Heartland is the same manufacture that made my Terry Classic. You can do as I did and visit their forum, "err rabbit hole", and take in information about the wilderness line as experienced by others.
You will be able to view posts, but not see pictures, or post if you don't create a profile. This helped me learn about what others had to say or complain about before I purchased mine.
Heartland has a forum for every brand they make.
We started in a very similar setup. Our kids are 7 and 5, they didn’t mind the dinette and fold out couch for a couple of summers. Mom and dad did though. Was a real pain to setup every night and take down the next morning. I ended up removing the couch and building bunks for that spot. Last winter I find our current camper for heap and in great shape. We bought a used Coachmen 323BHDS. I wouldn’t trade it for anything else at this point. Kids have their room, we have a walk around bed (I’m also 6’4”) and the outdoor kitchen is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
I would highly recommend a bunkhouse if the kids are saying in the camper frequenters.
There is a bar mounted under the front bumper of my Ex that I removed so that I could change out my leaf springs last summer. I never put the bar back on because 1) I thought it looked stupid, and 2) I couldn't see any practical purpose for it being there other than to add weight.
Now, I'm thinking that it is possible that the bar added some benefit to either the aerodynamics (if a 4T brick has any) or some safety regulation involving little Honda Civics and Toyota Corollas. I've been thinking of adding a front receiver to this rig for either a bike rack, additional recovery mounting points, or most likely to aid in pulling my camp trailer out of my shop. I bought a bumper-mount receiver with the intentions of welding it on to that lower air dam, bar, or whatever its called. I don't intend to haul anything heavy on it down the highway, so does anyone see a problem with my thought process on this? My camper is a tent trailer that weighs in under 5k fully loaded. When empty, the hitch weight is less than 300 lbs. Your thoughts are appreciated.
There is a bar mounted under the front bumper of my Ex that I removed so that I could change out my leaf springs last summer. I never put the bar back on because 1) I thought it looked stupid, and 2) I couldn't see any practical purpose for it being there other than to add weight.
Now, I'm thinking that it is possible that the bar added some benefit to either the aerodynamics (if a 4T brick has any) or some safety regulation involving little Honda Civics and Toyota Corollas. I've been thinking of adding a front receiver to this rig for either a bike rack, additional recovery mounting points, or most likely to aid in pulling my camp trailer out of my shop. I bought a bumper-mount receiver with the intentions of welding it on to that lower air dam, bar, or whatever its called. I don't intend to haul anything heavy on it down the highway, so does anyone see a problem with my thought process on this? My camper is a tent trailer that weighs in under 5k fully loaded. When empty, the hitch weight is less than 300 lbs. Your thoughts are appreciated.
Yeah that is a safety mandated "blocker beam" to keep you from going over the rear crash structure of smaller card and decapitating back seat passengers.
I did what you are suggesting on my '00 back then and it worked fine for the task, moving trailers around my property.
There is a bar mounted under the front bumper of my Ex that I removed so that I could change out my leaf springs last summer. I never put the bar back on because 1) I thought it looked stupid, and 2) I couldn't see any practical purpose for it being there other than to add weight.
Now, I'm thinking that it is possible that the bar added some benefit to either the aerodynamics (if a 4T brick has any) or some safety regulation involving little Honda Civics and Toyota Corollas. I've been thinking of adding a front receiver to this rig for either a bike rack, additional recovery mounting points, or most likely to aid in pulling my camp trailer out of my shop. I bought a bumper-mount receiver with the intentions of welding it on to that lower air dam, bar, or whatever its called. I don't intend to haul anything heavy on it down the highway, so does anyone see a problem with my thought process on this? My camper is a tent trailer that weighs in under 5k fully loaded. When empty, the hitch weight is less than 300 lbs. Your thoughts are appreciated.
I am sure I am slightly over the 500lb "vertical load" limit, but no further than I am going I figure it is good. It has worked very well for my purpose and I highly recommend it as a front hitch option for easy maneuvering of a TT.
Here it is in action:
Note: I have the ProPride now and had to have Shawn make me a straight stinger as the height difference between the rear hitch and front hitch was causing me issues when I disconnect/reconnect once the TT was down at the street as it put the PP in a bind. Also I really like using the PP b/c I can easily use the weight distribution with the front hitch also and not put so much stress on the front of the Ex.
I bought one of those units that bolts onto the underside of your rear bumper. Once the lower dam was removed and eyeballed, I used my grinder to clean everything up and just welded it on. Sits a little low for my tastes but I have different draw bars of varying heights that I can use with it. One thing I didn't factor in was my fog light bracket. It interferes with my camp trailer's crank handle if the vehicle is not lined up straight with the trailer. Been thinking of adding an electric tongue jack anyway, so that problem would go away quickly. Don't know if it was helpful, but I was able to park my boat in the shop by myself without needing a spotter.
New to the forum and sharing our "new" 2001 4x4 7.3 that will be our primary TV for our Airstream...looking forward to our annual trip to Bridgeport next month.
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