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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Build Progress (So Proud)

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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 08:35 PM
  #271  
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
I wouldn't weld them at all to the pan. What you need is bolts thru strong pads attached to the seat subframe, with large washers on the underside of the floor pan. Just like seat belts.
I agree...do not weld them in
 
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 10:52 PM
  #272  
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I bolted my home made seat frame to the original locations then bolted a crossbar between the mount points for the seat belts to bolt to. The PO of my truck had welded a box in and bolted the old seat to it. It weakened at the weld points over time. I wouldn't weld to the floor pan.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 09:09 AM
  #273  
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Thank you for the replies gentlemen. I'm sure we can reconsider the mounting points.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 09:53 AM
  #274  
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All they are saying is that it's not the best way to secure your seat. The oem mounting points are reinforced, and the little Popsicle sticks welded to a pics of sheet metal isn't going to be secure enough. They are concerned with an accident, I'm thinking the weld will be so rigid that it will crack the floor pan and eventually break through. All you'll need to do is form a piece2x2" or 2x3" piece of 1/8" or like 10ga to the floor and weld the 1" tubing to that. It will spread the load and not bend/warp/crack the floor and be secure in a possible accident. You can then even bolt it down with a reinforcing underneath so you can remove the seat easy if needed.

What kind of interior are you putting in. You said you may recover that seat, it looks like an awesome leather seat, whys it need to be recovered. It looks great in there.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 07:48 AM
  #275  
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Originally Posted by snook715
The seats have a few different spots that will be bolted to the sub-frame that is built out of square tube. That sub-frame will be welded to the floor of the cab in number locations and should be plenty strong. Then I plan to put another brace below the cab for seat belts. <O></O> <O></O> For anyone curious the seats are 2011 - 2013 Ford Explorer 2nd row bench seats from a police cruiser. I purchased a lot auction of seats and kept a few sets for my toys. Others can be found at the below link. <O></O> <O></O> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-2013-Fo...-/171205523125<O></O> <O></O> The seats feel great! I'll eventually recover them but until that time comes they will work just fine for me and the vinyl will be easy to match for the door panels later.
Hmmm. Pm me a price shipped to 60192. I might just take me.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 10:42 AM
  #276  
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Ryans88gt i sent that PM.

Now I know that the E40D was the topic this last week but we decided on a rebuilt AOD with adapter to mate to the big block. The less electronics the happier I will be. Next up on the list is a bed. I'm trying to decide new or patina. I've already done a bunch of metal work so patina will seem a bit patchy but hell I dont care because it's going to mechanically sound. I'm asked before if anyone has a widened Dan Carpenter's bed but i'm also considering this one I found online.... Ebay of all places.

Thoughts gentlemen?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 05:21 PM
  #277  
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What kind of rebuilt aod....
You do realize they are temperamental and require a very specific setup procedure that needs tuning to your vehicle application.
Did you buy the lentec aod or just a stock one.

Biggest thing you need to remember is, adjust the trans properly and then manually take it out of overdrive before you stomp on the gas. Of those two rules are not followed, you'll be replacing it.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 09:58 PM
  #278  
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After much research we're buying a core and building it locally. I've been assured multiple times that its going to work because we're not doing a high HP build on the motor. It's also half of what the Lentech one would have run me so we will see.

I appreciate the tips on adjusting and taking the trans out of OD before pushing it hard. I dont plan on driving the truck very hard but its good to know.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:13 PM
  #279  
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Originally Posted by snook715
After much research we're buying a core and building it locally. I've been assured multiple times that its going to work because we're not doing a high HP build on the motor. It's also half of what the Lentech one would have run me so we will see.

I appreciate the tips on adjusting and taking the trans out of OD before pushing it hard. I dont plan on driving the truck very hard but its good to know.
Follow those rules and it should hold up for a while.
I blew one up every year in my 67 mustang with a 400hp sbf. I was horsing around each time, and car weighed 3700 with me in it. I always blew it up on the street because I forgot the rules. But it survived drag racing every weekend.

Are you building or buying the bellhousing adaptor plate.
If you make a crank spacer same thickness as adaptor plate, you can use a 300-6 flexplate because it's neutral balance like the 460. One set of bolts into 460 crank, then a set of threads for sbf bolt pattern and tq converter pilot hole. Then use a sbf starter on trans like normal. (Probably)

I wanna hear plans.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 04:27 PM
  #280  
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Originally Posted by UNTAMND
Follow those rules and it should hold up for a while.
I blew one up every year in my 67 mustang with a 400hp sbf. I was horsing around each time, and car weighed 3700 with me in it. I always blew it up on the street because I forgot the rules. But it survived drag racing every weekend.

Are you building or buying the bellhousing adaptor plate.
If you make a crank spacer same thickness as adaptor plate, you can use a 300-6 flexplate because it's neutral balance like the 460. One set of bolts into 460 crank, then a set of threads for sbf bolt pattern and tq converter pilot hole. Then use a sbf starter on trans like normal. (Probably)

I wanna hear plans.
I'm buying the bell housing adaptor plate. Any suggestions? PJ's Classic Stop here has been helping souce the trans and I'm sure he's done his research too but I like to stay informed.

If i have time to chat with them this week I'll ask.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 04:50 PM
  #281  
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I haven't looked for an adaptor plate. I was just offering my opinion if you were making one yourself.
I'm curious the price of the plate he's going to suggest. He does realize you're using a 460... Right. And the aod was never behind it. Not trying to be a dick but sometimes we forget or overlook what we are trying to do.

Personally, for the cost of rebuild, a 700r4 is stronger, and isn't as finicky, and you're buying an adaptor plate anyway. But I'm sure it will last if built, setup, adjusted properly, and the two rules are followed.

I looked them up, all I found was a Facebook page. I only see listings for telephone number. No website. Did I miss seeing it or what.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 10:03 AM
  #282  
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No, I'm not easlily offended (I work customer servcie) so you're not being a dick. Funny you mention the 700r4 becasue we discussed it when talking about buying the adapter plate.

PJ's is great and very professional we took well over a month to compelte our research while working on other parts of the truck. He suggested the 700r4 but I respectfully declined because I'd like to keep my truck 100% ford if i can help it. I feel it would help the overall value if i ever decided to sell it.

Lentech sells the adapter plate that you can buy without buying their built AOD. I'm thinking that's what we're going with but I've seen a few others ranging from 400-800, OUCH!!! Labor of love I guess.

When you're bored check out the 1956 F-100 PJ's built for radio host Don Imus.
.

It eventually sold for 100k. Wagner family buys $100,000 pickup truck : St. Helena Star
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 03:50 PM
  #283  
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Frame / Inner Fenders Painted, Firewall Painted,





 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 04:21 PM
  #284  
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 12:46 PM
  #285  
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We decided to paint the motor Ford Blue to make it pop against the gloss black firewall and inner fenders.
 
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