Just makin sure u understood. Lol. Cuz u said somthing about an adapter again.

 

Why would you get a shorter bronco driveshaft? Then you gotta replace the hole tube. Get one that is longer then your original one so that you can just cut and reweld. If you have a shop do it, it'll be less expensive too. Driveline shop here only charges 40 bucks a weld and 40 to balance.

 

well i know theres a bronco i dont know if theres anything the same length or longer...i will soon though

 

How bad are you at welding lol. Don't you work at a shop with guys who can weld? Bring one of them a ham sandwich or something.

 

i could weld it...i could have people weld it...but i want a shop to do it so i know its balanced and so i can bring it back when i break it and say WTF! LOL

found a 75 ish f250 with a divorced NP205...im actually taking the front drive shaft off it, rear one is too short haha...front one is too long...

does anyone know it the yokes from a a dana44 will fit an 8.8? im trying to remember if the u joints were the same or not...guess i spend more time of the phone tomorrow

how does $125 sound for a driveshaft and shifter/linkage? i kinda think 100 is steep for a driveshaft thats over 30 years old...well ill get something back...my shaft has new u joints so providing i can find a way out of cutting that one up ill get good money for it HAHA

oh BTW im picking that stuff up tomorrow

 

I would not pay that much for a jyard driveshaft.

Solid d44 have a smaller 1310 joint then a 8.8.

 

Seems a little steep for a junkyard shaft.

 

i got the shaft for $50 cuz im cool LOL...

turns out i am using the drive shaft from a 80-86 f250 with the sterling 10.25 tear axle...it has a NP-208? t-case i believe so the yokes didnt match, but they are interchangeable...with some innovation...

then either i cut the rear end of my shaft off and weld it to the f250 shaft, or hope the yokes on the 8.8 are interchangable with the 10.25, i highly doubt that but its worth a shot...if it is i can elimintate that damn flange mount thing on the 8.8

so to recap, by using the yokes from a NP-208 on my NP-205 i can use an f250 driveshaft(s)...and since the f250 has a d44 front that yoke will fit my d44 so i can use that front shaft too...if i cant use mine...

heres pics



NP-208 yoke on the left NP-205 on the right



heres the only problem...as you can see the 208s yoke is shorter, so that little lip is hitting the seal and wont let the yoke go all the way back, solution...spacers

 

Can you shave it down at all? Assuming it's wouldn't mess with the length of the splines. Nice find on the bigger yokes, should hold up nice when you upgrade to real engine

 

x2 Hahahah.

 

no the shorter yoke is the one im using...from the NP208 or whatever it was...if you look at this pic you you will see what i mean, i circled the problem LOL, there is a small shoulder there and the seal wont go over it, the rest of the toke is too short so that makes contact with the seal before the yoke makes contact with the bearing, so in other words using it like that would eat that seal, im getting a couple 3/8" thich spacers made to go between the yoke and the bearing to keep that shoulder away from the seal



AND i should be able to combine 2 u joints to make one u joint that will actually fit the 3/4 ton drive shaft and the 1/2 ton diff yoke so i dont have to massacre my driveshafts together LOL...gonna have to check for sure tomorrow to make sure it fits in the 1/2 yoke...then i just have to shorten the shaft...

AND i dropped one of the bolts for my shifter linkage off at the machine shop, they are making a new one that is long enough that i will be able to use two shifters without modifying them, then i just gotta hope it all fits together under there somehow haha...

and needless to say, the shop that said theyd have a bay open for me today didnt...but i managed to get that bunch of stuff cleared up anyway...

oh and FYI...if i have it my way my 300 will be pushing 225ish hp and 400ish lb-ft. of torque ...

 

hey hav24wheel think you can grab a pic of your shifter linkage?

i think im gonna cancel that bolt and make/modify the shifters instead...ill have to get a better look under my truck for clearance issues tomorrow

 

I cant find the pics of the linkage and the mounting, this is all I could find... I'll take some tonight and post them up for you to see....

 

riiight triple stick LOL...fuuuuun


well i had an interesting day...again my POS M5OD tranny is acting up...

on my way to work my hiway gear is 4th (3.55s and 35" tires will not allow 5th) so anyway i get to the city and to the northside and go to downshift to find that the sucker will not come out of 4th okay i force it out of 4th...then i somehow manages to get stuck again but between gears or something so all it would do is grind a little and wouldnt move the truck any...little more forceful presuation and it comes out...then drives fine into the yard at the shop...into reverse to back into my spot and i get a loud clunk right after i start moving, truch stops dead in its tracks...pop into N and back into reverse back the rest of the way up...then it wont come out of reverse...i took the shift tower appart and used a punch and hammer to get it out of reverse !!!....now it shifts fine in every gear, but 4th...which mysteriously dropped off the map...so now 3rd revs to high on the hiway and 5th revs to low on the highway and im really PO'd HAHAHA...twas a fun day...but to lighten it up...I FOUND THE TRUCK THAT HAS MY ZF...my buddy said he was gonna take a look in the morning while i was at work...said its a 351W and 4x4...thats a ZF in my books...said its fairly low miles and it ran great when they rolled it LOL

 

I think it depends on what model truck that 351w is out of. The 150 came with 351's and m5od's if I remember right. When are you going to regear those axles?