t-case or front end???
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From: raymond alberta
well the factory 1/2 ujoints are bigger than the ones in the 78 bronc so the yokes that came with my NP205 were too small...so i stepped up to the 3/4 yokes and ujoints on the rear so i figure i might as well do the same on the front...i know the 3/4 ton yoke will fit the t-case and the 3/4 trucks had d44s in them too so that yoke will fit...then i just need a couple new u joints for it and im set.
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Hate to say this to you, but there is no such thing as "1/2 ton" and "3/4 ton" u joints, and yokes. Those little(1310) joints that the 78 bronco had, where used on every thing from a 1/2 ton pickup to a one ton van in the 70s. On the half ton pickups and broncos, they stepped up to the 1330s in 79( if I remember right). And that's the same size joints my 94 F150 has, and the 85 F350 diesel I got my one ton axles from. If you just say half ton, and so on for u joint size, no one has a clue on the true size.
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From: raymond alberta
the rear is the same between my f150 and the early-mid 80s f250 im scammin parts from but they are much larger then them twigs on the pre 78 trucks/broncs ive snooped through
the u joints are different on the front shaft than the ones on the rear arent they...im going to have to check that out i might just need the yoke for the t-case
i think i mentioned a while back that i wasnt actually making any gains from the yokes from that 3/4 ton...
the u joints are different on the front shaft than the ones on the rear arent they...im going to have to check that out i might just need the yoke for the t-case
i think i mentioned a while back that i wasnt actually making any gains from the yokes from that 3/4 ton...
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heres a measurement chart and safe loads for ujoints.
Series Joint Width Cap Diameter Max angle Continuous Ft Lbs Short Duration Ft Lbs
1310 3.219" 1.062" 30* 130 800
1330 3.625" 1.062" 20* 150 890
1350 3.625" 1.188" 20* 210 1240
1410 4.188" 1.188" 37* 250 1500
Might be a little hard to read because the copy/paste didnt work so well but the info is good.
I think you'll find most of the early stuff having 1310 or 1330 ujoints and stuff in the 80s starting to have 1330 and 1350. Not too many trucks I can think of (well maybe some new/newer trucks) having 1410s factory. 1350s have been holding fine for me.
Series Joint Width Cap Diameter Max angle Continuous Ft Lbs Short Duration Ft Lbs
1310 3.219" 1.062" 30* 130 800
1330 3.625" 1.062" 20* 150 890
1350 3.625" 1.188" 20* 210 1240
1410 4.188" 1.188" 37* 250 1500
Might be a little hard to read because the copy/paste didnt work so well but the info is good.
I think you'll find most of the early stuff having 1310 or 1330 ujoints and stuff in the 80s starting to have 1330 and 1350. Not too many trucks I can think of (well maybe some new/newer trucks) having 1410s factory. 1350s have been holding fine for me.
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I have seen 1330s on a lot of front shafts starting in 79.
And Kris is right, the newer(99-up Superdutys) have 1350s or 1410s. The front shafts with 1350s. On my wheeler, I'm running 1410s in the rear, and 1330s in the front. The front shaft doesn't break u joints, but sometimes the needle bearings turn to powder. But, with your setup, 1330s should be strong enough for the job.
And Kris is right, the newer(99-up Superdutys) have 1350s or 1410s. The front shafts with 1350s. On my wheeler, I'm running 1410s in the rear, and 1330s in the front. The front shaft doesn't break u joints, but sometimes the needle bearings turn to powder. But, with your setup, 1330s should be strong enough for the job.
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From: raymond alberta
yeah i dont see myself having any problems with them...yet...maybe once ive built the motor and put in the zf...
oh yeah...got my linkage finished today and it works...i havent got pics yet...there are a few things i wanted to clean up to make it look pretty but F*** it haha
hey i have a question for when i throw my 4.88s in...i have to cut out my pinion shaft so i was looking into LS or something to replace the open carrier and i have foin a ford LS from an 05 sploder with 5000 KM on it for $100 or a powertrax lock rite locer "slightly" used for $125...ive heard a lot of contradiction over the lock rite...so what do you think...i need one or the other
oh yeah...got my linkage finished today and it works...i havent got pics yet...there are a few things i wanted to clean up to make it look pretty but F*** it haha
hey i have a question for when i throw my 4.88s in...i have to cut out my pinion shaft so i was looking into LS or something to replace the open carrier and i have foin a ford LS from an 05 sploder with 5000 KM on it for $100 or a powertrax lock rite locer "slightly" used for $125...ive heard a lot of contradiction over the lock rite...so what do you think...i need one or the other
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From: North Dakota
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From: raymond alberta
well if i just cut the bitch out i dont have to worry about it at all 
...the lock rite has all my problems solve...so no...thats mine...you can has the LS muahahaha
got my yoke back today...looks good
....just have to put it all together...
...the lock rite has all my problems solve...so no...thats mine...you can has the LS muahahahagot my yoke back today...looks good
....just have to put it all together...
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From: raymond alberta
**** forgot about you guys 
oh well heres some piccys...gonna throw it up in the morn...turns out the machine shop "forgot" to remove the sheild and lathe the yoke al the way back so i had tot take it back today...now i need to make/modify a sheild for it...or should i just leave it? probably not a good idea...
my linkage stuff...see i can weld...starting to get used to making that transition between the shop welder and my welder
i got a quick question about the shackles on my rear leaf springs...does it really matter which way they go? like can you actually put them on "backwards" and would that cause problems?
oh well heres some piccys...gonna throw it up in the morn...turns out the machine shop "forgot" to remove the sheild and lathe the yoke al the way back so i had tot take it back today...now i need to make/modify a sheild for it...or should i just leave it? probably not a good idea...my linkage stuff...see i can weld...starting to get used to making that transition between the shop welder and my welder
i got a quick question about the shackles on my rear leaf springs...does it really matter which way they go? like can you actually put them on "backwards" and would that cause problems?
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From: raymond alberta
yeah i dont see why it would matter...i was just wondering because if you look at them from the back they seem to angle a little to one side so depending which way you face them that could gain or reduce the space you have between that bolt and the hanger...maybe ill take some pics tomorrow...
im going to see if that driveline shop with re-shorten my rear shaft...at least they didnt make it too short haha
i got my new yoke in all seems well, waiting to see if it holds oil but i think it will...FYI those spacers i had made...they were useless...LOL paperweights, not only that you dont need em, you CANT use em...not enough threads on the shafts, with those between the yoke and the bering the nut will not fully engage the threads...oh well they were like $10 haha
and another FYI anyone looking to do the NP-205 swap into a SWB ford...32" front driveshaft 45" rear....if your using the yokes from an NP208 like i did...i dont see why anyone would willingly keep those little 1310? yokes?
im going to see if that driveline shop with re-shorten my rear shaft...at least they didnt make it too short haha
i got my new yoke in all seems well, waiting to see if it holds oil but i think it will...FYI those spacers i had made...they were useless...LOL paperweights, not only that you dont need em, you CANT use em...not enough threads on the shafts, with those between the yoke and the bering the nut will not fully engage the threads...oh well they were like $10 haha
and another FYI anyone looking to do the NP-205 swap into a SWB ford...32" front driveshaft 45" rear....if your using the yokes from an NP208 like i did...i dont see why anyone would willingly keep those little 1310? yokes?
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From: raymond alberta
ok i got my front drive shaft getting the rear one fixed monday...
i noticed i have a serious problem...if i go through the mud puddle in 4x4 when i get to the other side neither the front nor the rear axle will come OUT of high...they are both freaking stuck...i have to unlock the hubs and practivally jump the clutch then she frees up and come out like nothing too it...havent tried in lo...im kinda scared to now haha...any relation to 3.50 front 3.55 rear gears? or something more serious?
i noticed i have a serious problem...if i go through the mud puddle in 4x4 when i get to the other side neither the front nor the rear axle will come OUT of high...they are both freaking stuck...i have to unlock the hubs and practivally jump the clutch then she frees up and come out like nothing too it...havent tried in lo...im kinda scared to now haha...any relation to 3.50 front 3.55 rear gears? or something more serious?