Take pictures. I've never rebuilt a t-case either.

 

yeah one of my bearings already did that...i think it was the input actually...cant remember for sure now...hope i got it all out of the parts washer LOL

why pack them with grease, oil alone would be better, less friction, less heat...why do both?

and yeah so far those snap rings are a bitch...some big freakin snap rings lol, what did you use to get em off...i havent found anything up to the task yet

dont worry i will...its not that hard...like i meantioned keep track of your bearings and the snap rings are the hardest part LOL

got the guy at the gear center in town to build me a seal/gasket kit for this case, $80 for everything, i might be able to get it cheaper when i mention i work at peterbilt LOL

so today i got my shifter and linkage glass blasted then i took a wire wheel to the shift lever, gives it a polished aluminum look, kinda...i did that with the tranny shifter too at one point...and i got the tailhousing of whatever tranny cleaned up for no apparent reason as that tailhousing is of no use to me lol...but i forgot everything else at home

 

Grease to hold them in place when you put them together. That's the only reason. Otherwise you will be fighting them a lot. Also I took a little drill bit, and drilled a hole on each side of the gap on those big snap rings. That way I could use the big snap rig pliers I have. The first couPle I did with some screw drivers, and that's a HUGE pain, so I came up with that drilling the hole idea, made it WAY easier. Just make sure your snap ring pliers is up to the task. I broke two of my cheap ones before I went and bought a good one.

 

Yeah, rebuildin a transfercase can't be that hard if YOU are doing it. :P

 

who? me? or him?

 

yeah i thought about that while i was at work...DOH!! LOL...then i lost 4 needle bearings in a tank elbow deep of black varsol...but i managed to find them all!...then the guy came and cleaned the tanks out less than 3 hours later HAHA

so the good news, all my bearings are good, the one in the front output gearset felt a little tight so i asked the tranny expert at the shop and he said it would be fine...good LOL

also, finished the cleaning, got the seals out, got the shift fork/rail out ready for twin stickin and i cleaned/polished (sorta) the shifter/linkage

amazing what you can do with a glass blaster and a wire wheel/bench grinder...looks like polished aluminum, well the lever does...did that with the stick for the tranny too



my pro method of seal removal...big hammer and wheel nut socket







can someone tell me why that chunk of steel on the output housing is rubbing on that gear?



someone asked about twin sticking...well heres the beginning

remove the shift rail closest to the input of the case...theres a little plug you gotta punch through into the case so you can punch the pin out of the shift fork and remove the rail...but remove the spring and ball (the thing that makes it "click" when changing gears) by removing the bolt close to that plug you remove...theres 2 of those ball bearings for that shift rail...dont loose em, or the one spring

from this pic you can see both the plugs and both the bolts for the spring/ball thing...i cant remember the real name for that LOL



plug removed, you can sorta see the pin that holds the shift fork on the rail



bolt/spring/ball removed...



heres the other ball...that stayed in there...just watch for it (on the left side of the tunnel for the shift rail at th etop of the pic)



heres the bolt/spring/ball dealio



heres everything you just removed...shift rail/fork/collar, spring/ball/bolt, and shift fork pin

 

If the tcase is fully assembed, u can still twin stick it, just pull the shift rod out and hold the shift fork in place with a alen wrench, and have the inspection cover off so u can get the roll pin, and plug out.

U shure that's the right gear for the rear output? Its been so long sence I have pulled one apart I can't remeber just by lookin at pics...

 

Him. Generally I don't give you crap. I like to disrespect him though lol.

 

After a second look at that pic,dooesnt look like everything is sitting how it should, as in, when its all bolted in the case, that won't be touching.

 

Do you mean to say he did something wrong?

 

yeah i had all the gears in it before i finished twin sticking it...oh and the spring/ball/bolt thing...yeah thats called a poppet bolt LOL...and yeah thats the rear output

good to know

yeah i bolted it all down and it appears once that yoke is tight it doesnt grind...but when i first got the case i could make it grind if i tried, but the yokes were loose too so

nope not me

okay onto pics...finished twin stickin and pretty much finished rebuilding it...just need teh 3 seals, they will be arriving friday...then shes built and i just gotta find a damn driveshaft and a way to mount it to the M5OD till i get that zf...should mount up the same but im gonna have to build a t-case mount so i donk crack my tranny

modified shift rail




and the t-case all reassembled





guess payday im gonna have to hit the junkyard for a driveshaft and another shifter and see if i can fab up my shifter linkage using two regular shifters...then i gotta find a boot lol

 

oh by the way...when grinding back those dips in the shift rail...grinding the rear one allows the output side to go into hi when the input side in in neutral and grinding the middle dip allows the output side to go into low when the input side is in neutral...

take too much off and you can have one in hi and one in lo...as previously discussed this is bad...grind little by little to make it right...you will have to run that roll pin in and out of the shift fork multiple times to get er right....just a bit of helpful info...

 

To make it bolt to your current trans, you should just have to make a notch in the mounting flange to clear the one shift rail. And if you do find another stock shift lever, its pritty symple to make shift levers. Just have to find some little pieces of pipe that fit over the shift rails nice and snug, drill a hole in it to bolt it to the shift rail, and weld some flat metal to the pipe for the shift linkage to hook to...... Wish I would have took a picture when I did mine.

 

yeah i know it wont be hard to build im pretty decent with fab work...i could build it from scratch but im too lazy lol...

gonna have to take a look at my POS M5OD and see if the linkage will bolt up to it...if i can get that ZF i know it bolts up...so i guess it must bolt up to the M5OD considering they have the BW13-56 behind both of them haha

 

Well good good. I'm going to send you a PM about this though.