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You do know that you're NOT supposed to have 4wd engaged on bare pavement??!!??
Since the tires won't be slipping any, and there are minor differences in tire diameter and gear ratios between the front and rear axles, they will turn at slightly difference rates. This will build up stress and bind up the drivetrain, and something WILL BREAK!!
This isn't an issue on slippery wet surfaces where the tires slip some and relieve any stress. I can't remember if this is true with Fords, but I've heard that on Chevy's you sometimes have to back up 10 feet or so after shifting back to 2wd before it really drops out of 4wd. It may have something to do with allowing the drivetrain to unbind it self. If you've bound something up, the snapping your hear could be the 4wd popping out under stress, and is certainly a bad thing.
yeah yeah i know, but at the same time, both my diffs are open which allows some slip to compensate, its not as bad as some people make it out to be, hell i got a 3.50 front and 3.55 rear...thats why i did it on DRY pavement, i knew the ratios would stress the chain and cause the problem so i could locate it...
ive heard the same thing about the chebbys but ive never had to do that with a ford, most ive had to do is allow the tire to roll a tiny bit when locking/unlocking the hubs so the can completely switch.
Originally Posted by 79Ford4x4
If you put the heavy 205 behind the ZF make sure you support it good. There seem to be alot of guys cracking tranny housings
yeah ill do something to brace it, i was thinking about building skid plates anyway seeing as how much i bottom it out haha
yeah yeah i know, but at the same time, both my diffs are open which allows some slip to compensate, its not as bad as some people make it out to be, hell i got a 3.50 front and 3.55 rear...thats why i did it on DRY pavement, i knew the ratios would stress the chain and cause the problem so i could locate it...
Open diffs don't make a difference at all. Open diffs allow one tire to rotate faster than the other tire on the SAME axle. The problem is the front and rear axles are rotating at different speeds and there is no diff between them. Vehicles that have AWD for ALL wheel drive have a 3rd differential instead of a transfer case. Transfer cases rotate the front and rear driveshafts at the SAME speed and since your axle ratios are different, bind things up unless the wheels can slip. Sooo maybe the chain has slipped, or maybe you're just causing the problem by improperly using 4wd (btw its in the owners manual! don't use 4wd on dry pavement because bad things happen...)
3.50 and 3.55 sound kinda weird... my dana 60 is 3.54 in front? That extra bit of difference could be part of the problem as well... And I don't mean to sound like an ***... but does this happen when you've been driving on slippery stuff as well, or just when you're on pavement and switch. Its possible that even when you think you'd be needing 4wd, maybe the tires are grabbing enough to not slip and winding things up? Just trying to help.
All 4x4s, even those with automatic locking hubs, should be driven or allowed to roll backwards at least 50 feet to ensure that the hubs are fully unlocked. And I've heard that 205's are hard to swap in to an 80-96 f series? you know that after '79 they stopped using the NP203 and NP205 alltogether and went to the NP208 and the BW1345 and BW1356, right?
Open diffs don't make a difference at all. Open diffs allow one tire to rotate faster than the other tire on the SAME axle. The problem is the front and rear axles are rotating at different speeds and there is no diff between them. Vehicles that have AWD for ALL wheel drive have a 3rd differential instead of a transfer case. Transfer cases rotate the front and rear driveshafts at the SAME speed and since your axle ratios are different, bind things up unless the wheels can slip. Sooo maybe the chain has slipped, or maybe you're just causing the problem by improperly using 4wd (btw its in the owners manual! don't use 4wd on dry pavement because bad things happen...)
3.50 and 3.55 sound kinda weird... my dana 60 is 3.54 in front? That extra bit of difference could be part of the problem as well... And I don't mean to sound like an ***... but does this happen when you've been driving on slippery stuff as well, or just when you're on pavement and switch. Its possible that even when you think you'd be needing 4wd, maybe the tires are grabbing enough to not slip and winding things up? Just trying to help.
i wouldnt have used 4wd on dry pavement unless i was trying to re-create a problem that occurs everywhere else...im not the average ******* with a 4x4 sticker, i know the problems that spawn from dry ground and 4 wheel drive, im also a mechanic so i do know how to re-create problems...and i had a good hunch my t-case chain was stretched so i knew if i took it to dry ground in 4wd the stress would cause it to slip allowing me to get a better idea of where it was coming from, and it was definately the t-case...
and yes the problem occurs on any and every terrain
the open diffs would also release some built up stress if one tire on the axle hit a patch of ice, it would spin and the stress would be released through that tire, there were some patches of ice where i was but the t-case chain is stretched so it wouldnt allow much stress to build up so i dont think hitting the ice really mattered anyway
i have the ford 8.8 rear end with the 3.55 gears and a 1975 dana 44 from another f150 that has 3.50 according to the tag
All 4x4s, even those with automatic locking hubs, should be driven or allowed to roll backwards at least 50 feet to ensure that the hubs are fully unlocked. And I've heard that 205's are hard to swap in to an 80-96 f series? you know that after '79 they stopped using the NP203 and NP205 alltogether and went to the NP208 and the BW1345 and BW1356, right?
ive never needed 50 feet...id say your hubs need to be refreshed if it takes that long, a nice slow roll it should lock in in a matter of inches in either direction
the biggest thing with a 205 into a 80-96 is the fact that they are so damn heavy, i gotta find someone who has done this and find a way to reinforce the t-case to take that stress of the tranny
and i think you got it right haha...sounds right any way
no its actually easy to build a side mount for it, right off the sides of the t-case to the frame...ill go back and get a linky to the pics i found of this setup, but the NP205 on weighs 124 lbs dry, thats less than the BW1356 isnt it? i thought the BW was closer to 150lbs?...
EDIT::; actually if you look at the pics in the link to kijiji below you can see a flat mounting surface on the driver side of the case, about the front output, its far right in the first picture, using that you can make a mount to the frame to reduce the stress on the tranny
post # 57 and 58 (already on the right page just scroll down) contain the pics of the side mount
Dono, i'm not sure about you and your gutless truck, but 4low and 1st is a recipe for disaster for me, throttle that and snap a u-joint like nothing. :P
Tecgod, i'll believe it when I see it.
My truck is in 4x4 on dry surfaces A LOT. I've had my truck locked up in 4x4 for the past six months or better just moving it around my property. Probably more than six months. And i've done driving on the road in 4x4 for miles after coming off a trail before I unlocked. Backing up ten feet has to do with auto hubs. You don't need to do this with manual hubs. And yes, Fords are this way too. I've never had anything bind and break. I've had plenty snap.. but not because of that.
no its actually easy to build a side mount for it, right off the sides of the t-case to the frame...ill go back and get a linky to the pics i found of this setup
heheheheheeh. linky, shrinky, dinky. sorry, linky is just a funny word.
And what does Mr. Prozon mean by Tbenks? he's not in this one.
And yeah, those 205's are heavy *****. I've heard of guys dropping them on themselves and they weigh like 180 pounds. heavy sons of b*tchs.
Dono, i'm not sure about you and your gutless truck, but 4low and 1st is a recipe for disaster for me, throttle that and snap a u-joint like nothing. :P
Tbenks, i'll believe it when I see it.
My truck is in 4x4 on dry surfaces A LOT. I've had my truck locked up in 4x4 for the past six months or better just moving it around my property. Probably more than six months. And i've done driving on the road in 4x4 for miles after coming off a trail before I unlocked. Backing up ten feet has to do with auto hubs. You don't need to do this with manual hubs. And yes, Fords are this way too. I've never had anything bind and break. I've had plenty snap.. but not because of that.
never actually put any throttle to it in 4lo on the pavement...i just let it go by itself haha...never had any problems with 1st and 4lo in the snow or mud though, but once when my hub got stuck and the driver side front wheel seized up 1st and 4 lo killed my t-case chain LOL
guess we will see what 4lo and a zf 1st gear will do lol...ill be careful LOL
4x4 and dry pavement CAN break stuff but if you go easy on it it shouldnt, i still dont run 4x4 on dry surfaces just cause
My bad, I meant to type tecgod. Lol. I edited that post.
as the rest of us are sitting here making bald spots goin WTF? when was tbenks here LOL...im pretty sure we knew what you meant pro...
found another 205 LOL...they seem to be everywhere...this one is at the junkyard in town laying on their floor ready to go HAHA...same price as the one in the ad too...sweet
now i just gotta get that damn evasive Zf tranny
problem is, once i have a Zf and a NP-205...then what am i gonna be breaking LOL...more expensive **** no doubt