I think what Cheezit was getting at is that 45 volts or less is considered to be bad by Ford AND/BUT just because you have more than 45 volts, doesn't mean your in good shape, it's just a part of the puzzle. Some trucks will run down well below that but it's not good for the electronics inside the FICM. You absolutely need to make sure you have two good batteries ( independently tested - one at a time not still connected) AND you have a good charging system 13.8 volts engine running or higher ( typically ) with an alternator that can be load tested, so it's also putting out AMPS, some just crap out as soon as you load them, then also, a starter system that doesn't have any unusual draws during cranking. Just some things to look for. If you're going to keep this truck I can't even recommend to you enough that you buy the Autoenginuity tester with the Ford Enhanced package. It's not public yet ( as I know of anyway ) but this Jan 15,2010, they will be releasing a huge update to their clients. This will allow for bi directional control of many systems on the truck, including cylinder contribution testing ( like you can do to the 7.3 with that package ) This will save you hundreds of dollars in testing at the dealer and TIME making arrangements to drop your truck, leave it for a day or two or 10 and so forth. If you're going to try to keep your own 6.0 on the road, you're gonna need this tool and in my research, there isn't a better more inexpensive one around by far !

 

cabinman is correct on what I was getting at.

also the ficm has 4 injector driver circuits in it. those 4 drivers drive 8 injectors.

driver 1 controlls : 1,7
" 2 " : 3,5
" 3 " : 2,8
" 4 " : 4,6

if the drivers are dead the ficm may still show 48volts and still be bad.

 

Another bad FICM maybe? Update leading up to the problem. My original batteries went bad, and were replaced about a month ago. I have noticed no problems until the cold weather showed up. At start up, the truck started running very rough for about 10-12 seconds then cleared up. This only happens on cooler mornings ( doesnt get cold in florida ) and seemed to maybe get a little worse after a week or so. Temps dropped in the 30's and that morning I had a surge/ low power upon startup. About 2 weeks later, The truck started, ran for about 5 secs while blowing black smoke and shaking like crazy, then shut down and would not restart. I checked the FICM voltage and it dropped to 16 volts when the engine was turned over. Jumper cables were hooked and the motor turned over really fast, so I think the battery voltage was ok. I pulled the FICM tonight, and opened it up. The solder joints look ok to me although I dont really know what to look for. Should I touch the pins with a solder gun to reflow them before I reinstall the FICM? Any other suggestions on what I might try? I dont have a code reader to pull codes. My truck is down and out in the parking lot at work. Any help would be appreciated. It is an 05 F250 btw, with 60,000 miles on it.

 

I can't see why giving that a shot is a bad idea. You really do need a good soldering iron to do it though, like someone else mentioned. I have a Weller 60/100 watt, it works well. Just make sure again that you use electrical solder and paste, not the acid stuff for plumbing. You don't need to add solder but a drop on the iron helps. A good solder will flow nicely and the joint will be shiny, not dull, but don't overheat the joint either. Do all the spots and check those white inductor coils I mention in the post about 4 back. If one is burnt, you'll know. I can't say for sure but I was told by the guy from Swamps, who completely reverse engineered both sides of the FICM, that if the trucks runs rough after start, it's usually an injector, I think I understood him correctly. Mine runs that way as well, my FICM is on it's way from Powerhungry, once it's in, I'll know for sure if it was only the FICM or if I have to change those stupidly expensive little buggers. Since all 8 are showing codes and I am throwing a FICM performance code, I am hoping it's all related to that darn thing. I should also mention, make sure to have those connectors go "click" when you plug the FICM in, any poor connection here can also cause issues. Another post said to check the FICM relay, the gray one in the box nearest the firewall in the engine compartment ,for any burnt spots or signs of heat damage. Almost all those types of relays are easy to check. You can also do a check on it while it's in your hand. Just have to eliminate the easy variables. If in the end you need a FICM, Swamps sells them for $325-$350.00, can't recall now. He guarantees them and they're plug and play from what I gather. Mine is being reprogrammed at Powerhungry in the hoped of better mileage and performance. Can't wait to see how it performs.. Best of luck to you.

 

I looked at the white coils and didn't see anything that was burnt looking. I thought of the relay, and I will do a visual check of it when I drive back to my truck in the morning. How would I go about testing that relay if I pull it out? I didn't want to do anything to crazy on the soldering since I am not that experienced. Just thought that if I heated to pin to make the existing solder flow a little, it might help bring the volts up some. But I also dont want to break it if it's not the problem. Someone mention pulling a sensor plug on a no start. I will try to find that in the forums tonight and try it tommorow as well. Looking forward to hearing of your results with the new modded FICM.

 

It's pretty easy to check a relay. Essentially there are 4 or 5 pins if you look at the relay they often have a little schematic on them to show you what pin does what. You can't really damage one that I know of when you are testing one, they aren't that sensitive when you deal with those types that carry a lot of current. So what you'll see is that two pins are for the power that makes the relay work, one is ground the other is power, if you get the right two, you'll hear a cilck which essentially connects two of the other terminals. This way you can use a small current to control a larger current. Check this website and look at the bottom, there is a simple diagram. http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/imag...iringGuide.jpg You need to power the two pins that show the coiled picture ( if there is one on the relay ) Anyway, I doubt it's the relay only because I don't see a lot of those failing unless there's a huge draw somewhere burning up the contact you can't see inside the relay.

As far as the soldering, don't be afraid to try, do exactly what you said, just make it flow a little. Get the iron good and hot, you don't want to try to heat it while it's touching the board, otherwise the board will be a heatsink and it will heat the hell out of other components while you are trying to achieve the melt. Get it real hot first so your contact time is short. Touch it, wait for it to be fluid, maybe add a drop and move on. Simple simple.

 

Like many have said...just put a little solder on the iron tip...this is called Tinning the iron....that way when you make your connection... the melt (flowing) happens easier and quicker....this also tells you that your iron tip is hot and ready.

 

Hey all,

Need your input on the reply I received below. This similar discussion is going on in an RV forum I belong to. I mentioned that the 2004 6.0 ford diesels have have problems with the egr's and FICM systems. What do u think about the resonse below? Thanks
-----------------------------
This is off topic from your original post but does relate to you last comment.

What you heard is partially correct but mostly incorrect.
The problems you keep hearing about is like a broken record.
Those particular models up to the late 04's/early 05's had injector problems.

It's my understanding that Ford wanted a specific type of injector and International (Navistar) strongly advised against it. Ford went ahead and used their spec injectors and everything went south in a hand basket. I have an '04/'04 mfg date and had some of the same problems. Four injectors either went bad or were going bad and had to be replaced. I took it in for warranty and the truck shop didn't want to touch it. They eventually called the Ford Maintenance Rep who in turn called the oil analysis lab, then agreed to do an injector inspection. They wound up replacing all the injectors to an updated injector.

Ironically, the folks at the lab where I have my oil analysis done were the ones that caught the problem thru excess fuel in the oil.

Ford has since learned to put more faith in their OEM parts sub-contractors. It's my understanding that 95% or the issues with the early '04s up to the '05's were caused by Ford not accepting the parts as mfged and wanted un-tested and un-proven parts of their liking installed.

 

Well I touched up all of the solder points as noted in this and many other threads. Made the trip back to the truck and reinstalled the ficm. It was a no go. Same no start condition as before. I guess there are other problems maybe. I removed the top fuel filter cap, and it is full of diesel. Both fuel filters were changed when right after it quit starting so I guess it is sending fuel to the top. As I have no scanner I guess its time to send it to the dealer. I suppose they will flash it to the newest flash. I still have the one where the injectors buzz for like 20 secs after shutdown. Thanks for all the input everyone and I will let you know the outcome at the dealer. I also inspected the ficm relay and everything looked ok with that.

 

Sorry to hear that. Frustrating!! Like you say, keep us posted so we can learn other angles.

 

I can't recall all the specifics on your problem since the start, but ICP sensors are a real problem on the 7.3. So I also checked mine on my 6.0, nothing, worked fine but I wasn't getting FICM sync ( remember I have the AE scanner ) and it turned out that even though it's rare, I had a faulty Crank Sensor. A bugger to reach but only about $50.00. Probably too late for you now but if you haven't brought it in, or if they scan it and that's it, you could just swap it yourself. Hope the total bill doesn't break the bank, especially near Christmas, ouch...

 

Did the AE software diagnose that is was the Crank Sensor? I have not towed my truck to the dealer yet. I am considering getting the AE software but am not sure if I can use it correctly to diagnose my problem. I guess my question in a nutshell, is what are my chances that I can diagnose my no start problem with AE? I would hate to spend $350 only to find out I still have no clue what my issue is. Cabinman......how did you use AE to figure out your crank sensor was bad?

 

There seem to be so many variables here that I think The crank sensor (as Cabinman stated) may be a longshot. Sense your in a definate no start situation, I'd bite the bullet and take her to the dealer. It may be as simple as doing the flash. I'm not sure of your mechanical abilities and willingness to take on what might be a not so tough job but, let the dealer diagnose and before you have them do anything, call you and go from there. Just my opinion, that's what I'd do. I'm not made of money either.

 

Truck would not start one morning outside temp was 46 degrees. Truck cranked but would not start. Pulled the following codes

P0261 injector low voltage
P0264 ..
P0267 ..
P0270 ..
P0273 ..
P0276 ..
P0279 ..
P0282 injector low voltage
P0336 camshaft position sensor.
P0611 ficm low voltage

Tests
Key on test resulted in 48V. Had father inlaw help with key on test and initial voltage was 20V then after about 4 seconds it would ramp to 48V. Cranking voltage was 48V. The 20V initial key on looked to be the problem.

From reading multiple posts I figured it was the FICM. Since it was a Sunday and I had nothing better to do I decided to pull the FICM and check the solder joints. Joints looked good but I resoldered anyway. My soldering gun is rated at 100W and it was barely enough to make the solder run. Put it back together and it started but the temp was now 65 degrees. Total time was about 1 1/2 hours.

Next morning at 39 degrees truck would not start. Called local ford dealership and told the service rep what I had and what I thought it was and he put me in line for service. Had the truck towed to the dealer and by lunch service rep called and said it was the FICM. As others have said it was $1049 for the part and service.

I have a remote start on my truck and the service rep asked if I had just installed it, I said now it has been on the truck since I bought it. The service rep said low battery voltage can kill the FICM. It the dawned on me that I had my batteries replaced about six weeks ago, but about a month prior to that the truck was cranking slower that usual. Also for abou the last month I have been geting about 1 1/2 MPG lower than usual.

Hope this helps someone. In my opinion if you don't get around 48V in all the FICM tests get it fixed.

 

I actually didn't suggest it is the crank sensor, I just said it was that on MY truck. As I said, I didn't read all of the details of this post BUT, a 6.0 has a certain sequence of this it needs to fire. I have all those details at home on my computer and I will post those shortly. as with a gas motor, certain things are a requirement, like compression, fuel and spark. the 6.0 needs a certain oil
pressure, volts to ficm, starting rpm, sync in ficm, crank position, fuel etc to fire. if u have this data and the min. requirements, the solution will come. be on later with what u need, then u can decide your next
move.