FICM testing procedure
#61
12-22-2009, 10:11 PM
GM HORSE
If you can PM me your personal email, I can send you all this stuff I have gathered.
Includes - wire chaffing locations
ICP sensor info
oil pressure info
etc etc.. too much to list.
Bismic gave a lot of stuff too, very detailed lists. Without a reader like the AE, you have nothing to work from. Where I am, just to code scan is $125-$150, one shot, on their time. To me, that's too much. If you plan on keeping this truck, I would buy the AE and buy a spare working FICM and have it behind the seat. It seems it's not IF but WHEN will you need it, so it's not wasted money. I know this stuff adds up but so do dealer repairs.
Cheers.
PS no matter what you do, if you decide to have it repaired for you, make sure to post what it was, it may help the next guy !
Includes - wire chaffing locations
ICP sensor info
oil pressure info
etc etc.. too much to list.
Bismic gave a lot of stuff too, very detailed lists. Without a reader like the AE, you have nothing to work from. Where I am, just to code scan is $125-$150, one shot, on their time. To me, that's too much. If you plan on keeping this truck, I would buy the AE and buy a spare working FICM and have it behind the seat. It seems it's not IF but WHEN will you need it, so it's not wasted money. I know this stuff adds up but so do dealer repairs.
Cheers.
PS no matter what you do, if you decide to have it repaired for you, make sure to post what it was, it may help the next guy !
#62
12-23-2009, 08:35 AM
Truck would not start one morning outside temp was 46 degrees. Truck cranked but would not start. Pulled the following codes
P0261 injector low voltage
P0264 ..
P0267 ..
P0270 ..
P0273 ..
P0276 ..
P0279 ..
P0282 injector low voltage
P0336 camshaft position sensor.
P0611 ficm low voltage
Tests
Key on test resulted in 48V. Had father inlaw help with key on test and initial voltage was 20V then after about 4 seconds it would ramp to 48V. Cranking voltage was 48V. The 20V initial key on looked to be the problem.
From reading multiple posts I figured it was the FICM. Since it was a Sunday and I had nothing better to do I decided to pull the FICM and check the solder joints. Joints looked good but I resoldered anyway. My soldering gun is rated at 100W and it was barely enough to make the solder run. Put it back together and it started but the temp was now 65 degrees. Total time was about 1 1/2 hours.
Next morning at 39 degrees truck would not start. Called local ford dealership and told the service rep what I had and what I thought it was and he put me in line for service. Had the truck towed to the dealer and by lunch service rep called and said it was the FICM. As others have said it was $1049 for the part and service.
I have a remote start on my truck and the service rep asked if I had just installed it, I said now it has been on the truck since I bought it. The service rep said low battery voltage can kill the FICM. It the dawned on me that I had my batteries replaced about six weeks ago, but about a month prior to that the truck was cranking slower that usual. Also for abou the last month I have been geting about 1 1/2 MPG lower than usual.
Hope this helps someone. In my opinion if you don't get around 48V in all the FICM tests get it fixed.
P0261 injector low voltage
P0264 ..
P0267 ..
P0270 ..
P0273 ..
P0276 ..
P0279 ..
P0282 injector low voltage
P0336 camshaft position sensor.
P0611 ficm low voltage
Tests
Key on test resulted in 48V. Had father inlaw help with key on test and initial voltage was 20V then after about 4 seconds it would ramp to 48V. Cranking voltage was 48V. The 20V initial key on looked to be the problem.
From reading multiple posts I figured it was the FICM. Since it was a Sunday and I had nothing better to do I decided to pull the FICM and check the solder joints. Joints looked good but I resoldered anyway. My soldering gun is rated at 100W and it was barely enough to make the solder run. Put it back together and it started but the temp was now 65 degrees. Total time was about 1 1/2 hours.
Next morning at 39 degrees truck would not start. Called local ford dealership and told the service rep what I had and what I thought it was and he put me in line for service. Had the truck towed to the dealer and by lunch service rep called and said it was the FICM. As others have said it was $1049 for the part and service.
I have a remote start on my truck and the service rep asked if I had just installed it, I said now it has been on the truck since I bought it. The service rep said low battery voltage can kill the FICM. It the dawned on me that I had my batteries replaced about six weeks ago, but about a month prior to that the truck was cranking slower that usual. Also for abou the last month I have been geting about 1 1/2 MPG lower than usual.
Hope this helps someone. In my opinion if you don't get around 48V in all the FICM tests get it fixed.
Very interesting and sorry this cost so much. Interesting because I have the exact same volt readings on my 6.0. Read 48V when turned to on however, that was after I checked several seconds later. Had my daughter turn to on while I was under the hood checking the multimeter and it read 20V for about 2-3 seconds, then jumped to 48V. Cranked at 48V.
I also had weak batteries for probabley several months (a year, who knows) until I replaced two weeks ago. Truck will now at least start at 20 degress albeit barely and starts like new when I have the block heater plugged in for a couple of hours.
Being that Robo has the exact same symptoms I have, except no start at all, looks like I have the same FCIM issue. When Robo re-soldered the FICM, why did that not fix the issue? I'm guessing either the FICM has other issues that cause failure or perhaps the solder job performed was not adaquate. Thoughts all? I'm thinking my no start issues are not far down the road.
Thanks
Edited to add: Robo, do you have a block heater and if so will it still not start at any temp? If it will not start when say, 60-70 degrees we must have different issues after all. Thanks
#63
12-23-2009, 09:39 AM
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The soldering is not a guarantee fix for the FICM, just a good fix for what appears to be somewhat common. On another site it looks like it was 60/40 that it fixed. Very well may be bad or tired components in your FICM.
#64
12-23-2009, 06:51 PM
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Just to update you guys on my no start problem. After reading Robo's post, I recalled having battery issues as well. My truck seemed a little weak on start up power, and on top of that, I left the key on when camping and killed the batteries totally. One of the batteries was ruined, and the other probably not far behind after being drained to nothing. I replaced both batteries, but started having cold rough running issues, eventually turning into a no start. I have ordered the AE software so I can diagnose it. I have towed the truck to the house now where I can work on it as needed. I have received alot of great information from Cabinman that I cant wait to use with my new scanner. I will keep you guys updated on my progress, but feel that I am going to find a dead FICM due to completely drained batteries. Thanks to everyone for the help.
#65
12-23-2009, 06:58 PM
#66
12-23-2009, 07:07 PM
#67
12-23-2009, 10:02 PM
************************************************** *****
Very interesting and sorry this cost so much. Interesting because I have the exact same volt readings on my 6.0. Read 48V when turned to on however, that was after I checked several seconds later. Had my daughter turn to on while I was under the hood checking the multimeter and it read 20V for about 2-3 seconds, then jumped to 48V. Cranked at 48V.
I also had weak batteries for probabley several months (a year, who knows) until I replaced two weeks ago. Truck will now at least start at 20 degress albeit barely and starts like new when I have the block heater plugged in for a couple of hours.
Being that Robo has the exact same symptoms I have, except no start at all, looks like I have the same FCIM issue. When Robo re-soldered the FICM, why did that not fix the issue? I'm guessing either the FICM has other issues that cause failure or perhaps the solder job performed was not adaquate. Thoughts all? I'm thinking my no start issues are not far down the road.
Thanks
Edited to add: Robo, do you have a block heater and if so will it still not start at any temp? If it will not start when say, 60-70 degrees we must have different issues after all. Thanks
Very interesting and sorry this cost so much. Interesting because I have the exact same volt readings on my 6.0. Read 48V when turned to on however, that was after I checked several seconds later. Had my daughter turn to on while I was under the hood checking the multimeter and it read 20V for about 2-3 seconds, then jumped to 48V. Cranked at 48V.
I also had weak batteries for probabley several months (a year, who knows) until I replaced two weeks ago. Truck will now at least start at 20 degress albeit barely and starts like new when I have the block heater plugged in for a couple of hours.
Being that Robo has the exact same symptoms I have, except no start at all, looks like I have the same FCIM issue. When Robo re-soldered the FICM, why did that not fix the issue? I'm guessing either the FICM has other issues that cause failure or perhaps the solder job performed was not adaquate. Thoughts all? I'm thinking my no start issues are not far down the road.
Thanks
Edited to add: Robo, do you have a block heater and if so will it still not start at any temp? If it will not start when say, 60-70 degrees we must have different issues after all. Thanks
I do not have a block heater, no need for it I live just north of Houston. I do believe it would start above 70 degrees and if it would have happened during the summer I would not have noticed it except for hard start and rough running until it warmed up.
As for the soldering, I grew up in my dad's tv repair shop and I have and engineering degree. Not mad about the soldering comment just want you to know that I know what good and bad soldering looks like and that I know how to solder. That is why I resoldered all joints because I know that sometimes a solder joint can look good but not be. I think my low batteries caused my FICM to fail.
If I didn't live in my truck I would have found a used FICM that matched my year model and replaced it myself. From what I have read you can get a used FICM for about $300 and as I said in my earlier post it would take about 1 to 2 hours to replace.
Again I hope this helps someone.
#68
12-24-2009, 03:57 AM
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The AE software was $341 with free shipping and no tax. I figure the price of 2 -3 scans from the dealer and its paid for. I am figuring $500 dollars for a FICM with an innovative factory tune. Of course this is all assuming what codes I get. So a total of $800-$900 combined. From what others have said, an installed Ficm from Ford is around $1000 - $1300. So hopefully I will come out a little cheaper with a scan tool to boot. Only time will tell! Can't wait for that software to show up.
#69
12-24-2009, 08:38 AM
#70
12-24-2009, 08:49 AM
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#71
12-24-2009, 09:27 AM
The link below shows several for sale on Ebay with a "buy it now" price of $219.00 plus $10.00 S&H. Is this the right guy? If so, looks like a great deal. The seller seems reputable.
AutoEnginuity, great deals on eBay Motors, auto ty on eBay!
AutoEnginuity, great deals on eBay Motors, auto ty on eBay!
#72
12-24-2009, 09:39 AM
The link below shows several for sale on Ebay with a "buy it now" price of $219.00 plus $10.00 S&H. Is this the right guy? If so, looks like a great deal. The seller seems reputable.
AutoEnginuity, great deals on eBay Motors, auto ty on eBay!
AutoEnginuity, great deals on eBay Motors, auto ty on eBay!
Here is a seller with a bundle that includes the Ford enhancement:
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/me...de=F03-07-MISC
#73
12-24-2009, 09:43 AM
#75
12-24-2009, 10:13 AM