I dunno about that. True the psd has the hp and tq numbers to be fast, there's just a lot of lag. Once you tune all that out yea you have something of a monster on your hands. My bone stock psd has more everything than my mustang, but yet I can push it faster in a 1/4 mile. Lmao. Let me get down a coupke monster drinks first. Lol.

 

Agreed, when you start messing with a stock motor random things start going out at random times for apparently no reason even when you do it properlly. I did mention before that the rods are the notorious weak point on the latemodel Ford mod motors but they will hold up ok with mild boost and a nice tune. At least the mod motors' weak point is the rods and not the block like the old 5.0 in Mustangs and trucks. I don't know how many threads I see on the Corral where guys split their blocks open and this is after spending big money to throw a forged 331 stroker kit at the stock block...

The truth of the matter is, gas or diesel, turbo/diesel/nitrous/propane or whatever... He who has the fattest wallet is going to win. And we are talking about 7,000lb trucks here. At the end of the day, the guy who spent a ton of money on his big cube forged, Dart block'd stroker with a power adder making north of 700rwhp in a 3,000 lb streetable Mustang notchback setup to go really fast in a straight line is going to walk away from just about any truck.

 

Absolutely the rods on the V10 can fail under boost. I am not under the fairy tail assumption that that will not happen. But the odds are still better than running high HP tunes while towing with a water/meth inj bandaid.

 

After I boosted my old MOD motor I ended up rebuilding it with all forged internals including the crank just to be safe. Wasn't cheap, but I didn't want to worry about it.

 

If you plan to run boost long term its hard to beat forged internals. Only thing with the V10 is that it uses a split crank with no aftermarket units on the market so that can throw a wrench in the deal if you go boost crazy.

BTW I like the color combo on the new truck.

 

Which is why you have to used good forged components like the diesels do.....

 

Guys, I think talking about heavy modded motors is going to not prove anything -

when does it end, a v10 with new innards, aftermarket EFI and alcohol and a powerstroke with NOS and new internals?

We should be comparing stock or close to stock, like most people have their trucks running.

 

I agree, but it did make for a rather interesting discussion.

 

I choose my V10's for their reliability, after owning a 6.oh-no for almost 4 years. While I keep seeing stories of even 6.7's getting all new injectors after less than 10,000 miles, I know I made the right decision for me. That's all that really matters, making the right decision on the trucks that will work for us everyday. I'm very happy with the V10's (even stock) for my use. The 900 pounds I saved by getting the V10 allows me to carry 900# more on my truck. I towed this Dodge/Cummins yesterday. Only 60K on it, and already needing a HPOP. There goes $2,800.

 

I see you are carrying your payload on the rear axle, while the 900 lb engine sits over front one

 

Around here you have to pull the tires and drop the fuel tank before you scrap a truck. Oh, I'm sorry. You're taking this to a shop. I thought you were showing us a load of scrap you were hauling off. My apologies.

 

Stock vs stock, how does the V10 compare to the diesels in the 1/4?

 

The difference is the GVW is the same for both gas and diesel. Both are 19,500#. This truck weighs 12,500 empty. The Dodge is 7,000# making this a legal load. If I had the 6.7, my truck would weigh 13,400# making me overweight on this tow by 900#. Which axle doesn't matter. I have a 6500# front & 14,706 rear axle ratings. More than the 19,500# limiting GVW. GVW is what the ISP go by......

 

You are mentioning ISP again? In my interstate hauling no weight police ever checked my GVW rating. One time they did was for determination of fuel permits, not the weight capacity.
Than in CA I have huge sticker posted on my door saying how much weigh I have my set registered for. The 30k lb sticker cost me about $600 a year.

 

I dunno about the 6.7l. But the 6.8 will eat a 7.3, 6.0, and 6.4s lunch all being stock. You have to much lag. The duel turbos on the 6.4 was suppose to cure that. I reckon for the most part it prolly did. Just not in a drag racing situation. The diesel just isn't built with 10 second 1/4 miles in mind. They are coming from the factory to move weight period. I see a lot of guys in gassers and diesels trying to leave the line at 3k rpm or higher. That's a lot of stomping on the ground to try to get control of never mind your already slipping so the tires has to fight for traction to move forward. My mustangs like around 2k rpm when dumping the clutch and you can stick the hell out of it. Over 2300 rpm your slipping. Same thing applies to a diesel, but here's the thing. Your on the line holding 2k rpm your already holding north of 95% of your tq. You drop the brake you'll lose traction. So you lower your rpms alittle. Well when you launch you have to stick tje accelarator but nothing happens yet. Boost has to be made. Even a supercharger isn't automatic but its a lot closer. Running a tuner on the diesel you can dial in the boost and tune out the lag.
I do not see a engine w/ under 10:1 compression with 20 lbs of boost. I don't think I've ever seen that advertised either. I think all I've ever seen is 6-9 psi. I might have seen a 10 psi not sure though. Its just sorta stuck out in my mind. Seems to me 20 psi would be just way to much compression in the chamber for the head. Either the head will raise up or the rod will snap if you don't blow a hole thru the piston. Its crazy to me to even talk about that kind of boost on a gasser. Gas doesn't need that kind of pressure to be effective. Gas explodes/flashes without pressure so yourbonly gaol is to get more o2 molucule in the chamber. 6psi fits that bill quit nicely. Look what's done with a CAI system etc.