Power Door Locks FIXED!!!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 0
From: Charles Town, WV
OK I tore back into it and found I was getting power to the actuator so I split the case open and found the problem. One of the male contacts that's attached to the case and slips into the motor was bent flat. So it looked like SpongeBob with a tooth knocked out. I must has really been in a hurry the first time around. I bent it back down reassembled and good as new. Thanks all. Great find. How many others are doing the remaining working locks as prevenative maintenance? Thinking it's a good project when bored.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
I wish I had done my others as P/M when I did the first one. I've only done them as they failed. I did my last one (of four) today, the first one was three or four years ago.
The problem with doing them "as needed only" is that I tended to forget the little details and tricks that made it easier, and it took a longer time each time. It was like each one was the first, time-wise.
Pop
The problem with doing them "as needed only" is that I tended to forget the little details and tricks that made it easier, and it took a longer time each time. It was like each one was the first, time-wise.
Pop
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Lot of people doing them . They don't have to take the door handle off or take that cable off though. They can just cram some tin foil in the slot in the motor also.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 412
Likes: 26
I've been following this thread since it began. Thought for sure this is the fix I need for my driver's actuator. I never got around to doing the fix for several reasons and so I have been noticing something with this lock. Maybe someone can help decide if this is what I need.
My lock problems really only occur when it is rainy or very humid outside. Cold and wet sometimes causes it too. However, this is only when I use the remote on the door locks (aftermarket). When this happens, I test the lock with the switch on the door and it works, only just a little slow, but not too bad. So, I am thinking that the relay for the aftermarket remote is probably getting moisture in it and not really a bad actuator. However, this system has a relay for each side, so I would think that if the relay was the problem that the front and back on the driver's side would both stick. This is not the case.
Opinions?
My lock problems really only occur when it is rainy or very humid outside. Cold and wet sometimes causes it too. However, this is only when I use the remote on the door locks (aftermarket). When this happens, I test the lock with the switch on the door and it works, only just a little slow, but not too bad. So, I am thinking that the relay for the aftermarket remote is probably getting moisture in it and not really a bad actuator. However, this system has a relay for each side, so I would think that if the relay was the problem that the front and back on the driver's side would both stick. This is not the case.
Opinions?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I doubt if the moisture is affecting the remote but it might the relay. I sounds like you need to do the fix on the drivers door. They open with a solid whack with the fix. Nice because you can hear it lock/unlock. The remote is just a switch, it either works or doesn't, but I can't help you with the relay the remote operates. The more I read this the less I realize I know about it but I would start with a fix on the drivers door as they all go bad eventually and it might cure the problem.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 412
Likes: 26
I should clarify my post. The remote is fine. It's the relay for the system that I am wondering about. But, as you say, the lock should have a solid "whack" when opening. Just seems strange that when it hangs, it hangs when unlocking from the remote, but works with the door switch. My theory there is that the actuator is actually going bad like all the others and what I am seeing is that the relay is not letting as much power through as the door switch does (it's parallel to the stock circuit, not in line) and so that drop in power accents the bad actuator. That would also explain why the other lock on that circuit works fine.
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 23
thanks and reps pionts to the OP for this super fix. i did all four of my doors yesterday with total success. Thanks again.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
I did all 4 of mine a while back. Decided to do a little test and did the front passenger door with a brand new ford actuator and the 3 remaining with the tin foil.
Guess which one went out a couple months back already after less than a year....
Guess which one went out a couple months back already after less than a year....
New User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Followed kalsc's directions and posted a photo step by step in the album section. My friend was too nervous to do it without seeing it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...p?albumid=3215
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...p?albumid=3215
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Volez,
If you use an exact knife to cut the heads off the plastic rivets first, you don't have to pry so hard to get the cover off, and you don't have to file later.
It looks like you brute-forced the motor's end-cover off, too, and then straightened the little tabs. A pair of needle-nosed pliers will bend the tabs first to allow the brush end of the motor to be removed without damage.
To re-install without the possibility of damaging the brushes, a piece of paper clip can be trimmed and inserted in the end cover to hold the brushes open while installing over the armature.
You should replace the rivets with #4 or #6 screws. There's more internal pressure at that point, that's why they were metal rivets.
Pop
If you use an exact knife to cut the heads off the plastic rivets first, you don't have to pry so hard to get the cover off, and you don't have to file later.
It looks like you brute-forced the motor's end-cover off, too, and then straightened the little tabs. A pair of needle-nosed pliers will bend the tabs first to allow the brush end of the motor to be removed without damage.
To re-install without the possibility of damaging the brushes, a piece of paper clip can be trimmed and inserted in the end cover to hold the brushes open while installing over the armature.
You should replace the rivets with #4 or #6 screws. There's more internal pressure at that point, that's why they were metal rivets.
Pop
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
An easy way to bend up those 2 tabs on the motor bell is to drill a shallow hole behind each one first. Also, instead of putting tin foil around the resistors you can throw the culprits away and just cram tin foil in the contacts where it was. Also you don't have to separate the halves. You can just drill the rivets out by the motor, spread the halves and drop it out. Also there is no need to mark the bell and motor because the part # goes down and the contacts go up. The paper clip brush holder is a good idea, I used another method the first time 
All 5 of mine are still working like a champ.
All 5 of mine are still working like a champ.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 1
I use a dental tool to open the motor tabs but I never fully straighten them only enough to get the back plate off.