EBPV delete
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,354
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Hey everybody I will have all of my upgrade parts by the end of today but I don't think I will be able to start the tear down this weekend. I don't know when yet but when I do I hope ya''l will wish me luck that all goes smooth and solves all of my 7.3 issues. Thank you all for your support!!!!!
Just take your time, think about the task at hand and then execute. We (the FTE community) are here to help you along the way. We can certainly be of help here on the forum and in person at times. I see you are near lake Oconee in GA. We have been known to show up and help a fellow FTE'r out when they need assistance. I have been on the receiving end of this act of kindness before and it was a life saver for me and my family.
One thing you can do prior to starting the actual work, get your sequence of removal and installation set on a piece of paper. That way, you won't waste time saying things like "OK, what is next..."
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 87
From: North Carolina, Raleigh
not sure how tall your tire are, but i jacked each side up, took off the tires, put a couple of bolt back on to hold the rotors on and lowered them on to a 2x6 on the ground.. make getting in and working a bit easier.. I took me a couple week working a couple days and getting parts, find something else and take care of that..
I did turbo bearing to 360, smoothed out inside the exhaust side of turbo so EBPV valve did not hang up when closed, updated o'rings in pedestal, repiped fuel lines with port in rear driver head, water pump and t-stat to 205, new o ring in fuel bowl, replace regulator, rebuild sensor on HPOP, new HPOP lines and fitting on lines, top radiator hose replace with ambulance type that goes around the belt vs through, etc etc etc/
I did turbo bearing to 360, smoothed out inside the exhaust side of turbo so EBPV valve did not hang up when closed, updated o'rings in pedestal, repiped fuel lines with port in rear driver head, water pump and t-stat to 205, new o ring in fuel bowl, replace regulator, rebuild sensor on HPOP, new HPOP lines and fitting on lines, top radiator hose replace with ambulance type that goes around the belt vs through, etc etc etc/
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 250
Likes: 69
From: Lake Oconee Putnam Co. Ga
It's me AGAIN!!!! Before I start on my adventure I'm trying to gather everything I need, like Sous suggested.I was wondering what sealant I need to use on the plenums,threads on bolts and where to use what grade# of Locktite and where to use it. Any advice in this area would be greatly appreciated.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
I haven't done plenums yet, so haven't researched loctite for those particular bolts. My guess would be 242 or 243.
Most your loctite choices are based off the size of the bolt being used. Occasionally, like with 242 & 243 the ratings are for the same size bolts. The difference being 242 is not oil resistant so requires living room coffee table assembly like cleanliness for proper cure. Vs 243 is oil resistant to obtain full strength during cure so you don't have to be so stringent in your cleaning practices.
So, if the plenum bolts fall into the size rating for the two loctites I mentioned I'd recommend 243
which is good for 1/4” to 3/4” bolts with a break free strength of 230inch pounds. 242 has the same ratings, but it's not oil resistant for it's cure
That said if the plenum bolts are 1/4" I'd be leary of using 243 in that application unless the bolts used are above a grade 5, or 8.8 if metric. Reason being the hold strength of the loctite can be higher than the bolt's shear rating for cheap grade Chinesium or bulk bin bolts
Most your loctite choices are based off the size of the bolt being used. Occasionally, like with 242 & 243 the ratings are for the same size bolts. The difference being 242 is not oil resistant so requires living room coffee table assembly like cleanliness for proper cure. Vs 243 is oil resistant to obtain full strength during cure so you don't have to be so stringent in your cleaning practices.
So, if the plenum bolts fall into the size rating for the two loctites I mentioned I'd recommend 243
which is good for 1/4” to 3/4” bolts with a break free strength of 230inch pounds. 242 has the same ratings, but it's not oil resistant for it's cure
That said if the plenum bolts are 1/4" I'd be leary of using 243 in that application unless the bolts used are above a grade 5, or 8.8 if metric. Reason being the hold strength of the loctite can be higher than the bolt's shear rating for cheap grade Chinesium or bulk bin bolts
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 250
Likes: 69
From: Lake Oconee Putnam Co. Ga
Thank you for the great info.I'm not sure what size bolts are in the plenums yet but I will make the decision on Locktite after I pull one. Again thanks I have an idea on which one to use now.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
If plenums are resealed with TA31, the bolts are probably not required after it cures. I’ve never used thread locker on them and don’t think I’ve ever found them loose from the factory.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
There will always be exhaust back pressure while driving. This is a measure of the resistance of air going through the turbo. Ideally, we want a 1:1 ratio or lower (EBP to boost ratio).
I think some tuning strategies use the EBPS (off front of passenger side exhaust manifold), so deleting this is not usually recommended.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
So my ebp sensor pigtail clips were not fully seated inside the pigtail, and it ran very odd at idle, almost like a random injector would have 5 times the ICP as the others going to it. Not the same injector and a steady rhythm of a one bad injector, but a random injector here and there every 2h4 seconds. No codes, hard or soft. Then the ebp read 48.5 at all times, even with the engine off.
Not sure why yours would read zero tho. Make sure it's plugged in, if so you probably need to clean the tube. Chuck some weed eater string into a drill. Or if it's really bad a broken bicycle cable on the drill to clean it out. Your ebp tube could be completely rusted thru too, some have posted pictures of theirs being in two pieces.
Not sure why yours would read zero tho. Make sure it's plugged in, if so you probably need to clean the tube. Chuck some weed eater string into a drill. Or if it's really bad a broken bicycle cable on the drill to clean it out. Your ebp tube could be completely rusted thru too, some have posted pictures of theirs being in two pieces.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 250
Likes: 69
From: Lake Oconee Putnam Co. Ga
I replaced the EBPS and cleaned the tube less than a year ago. I don't know why the tube would be clogged up so soon because it had 290k on it when I replaced sensor and cleaned the tube. All of this started after the ""NO SERVICE"" fiasco!!!!!!!
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
Surface prep is key to success. Everything must be 100% free of oil/grease being critical.
