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What do you guys think about a Wicked Wheel for the turbo?
It was one of the first and best mods I did for my truck. Had a LOT of compressor stall when pulling the 5th wheel up hills. WW cured that 100%, and as an added bonus, gave it the nice, classic turbo whistle.
What do you guys think about a Wicked Wheel for the turbo?
Wicked wheel is outdated.
Billet wheel is the current upgrade go-to part.
I like the 4/4 wheel Riffraff sells.
You could also spring for the KC balanced assembly which incorporates a redesigned turbine. It also comes with a rebuild kit I believe.
Leaking EBPV…
Dad’s 325k truck appeared to leak from the EBPV slightly. I would see just a few dribbles on the ground at times when parked. I never did a detailed diagnosis but it looked to be a small leak the the rod of the actuator. From memory it was (actively) wet at the rod. Not enough of a leak to worry about so he rolled with it. It was worse in winter which I figured was due to the rod actuating more. Again, just assumptions though.
What do you guys think about a Wicked Wheel for the turbo?
Instead of repeating information stated by another FTE'r, I will simply quote them. Which I have done below.
Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
Wicked wheel is outdated.
Billet wheel is the current upgrade go-to part.
I like the 4/4 wheel Riffraff sells.
You could also spring for the KC balanced assembly which incorporates a redesigned turbine. It also comes with a rebuild kit I believe.
I ran the Riffraff 4/4 for quite a few years and it was a solid performer.
I always thought the leak from the ebpv was hastened/encouraged by inactivity. All of mine are disconnected and flap wired open. Except on my truck and i did rebuild it. But still havent used it as a exhaust brake. Cody your endorsement here makes me want to try it.
I dont notice its loss for warming up my excursion or van. Seat heaters warm me up in the ex. And my van gets to park in the garage (equipment theft prevention). So cold mornings arent so bad rolling to work.
I have fixed a number of trucks that the EBPV poured oil onto the ground while activated. I agree that ‘lack of use’ was the most likely cause.
I often find a lot of dirt and grime inside the pedestal where the actuator rod exits. Perhaps lack of use and build-up of grime (plugging the drain hole?) is the cause of some of the leaks I see?
Ok guys I think I have made up my mind. I am going to order : KC balanced turbo wheel kit, EBPV delete pedestal, Up pipe upgrade and new intake boots. What am I forgetting?
‘While you’re in there’ consider removing the clamps on fuel lines from filter to heads before they rub through the lines. SS braided hoses from Riffraff are solid upgrade for reliability.
Upgrading to JIC HPOP lines from Riffraff is also a recommended upgrade.
No matter what, rebuild the water drain valve on fuel bowl with the upgraded ‘blue’ o-rings.
Plenum inserts, t-bolt clamps to replace the worm clamps and Riffraff CAC boots are other good options.
Ok guys I think I have made up my mind. I am going to order : KC balanced turbo wheel kit, EBPV delete pedestal, Up pipe upgrade and new intake boots. What am I forgetting?
Is the ebpv delete turbo housing in your cart as well? I went with the plenum inserts as well to prevent crushing while I had it down that far
You can get these instead of the inserts gets rid of the flimsy plenums, although not as bad *** as Clay's plenums with O ring but its cheap alternative and gives you the opportunity of re sealing the plenums.
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