I can’t really help you with the oil leak. Maybe start it and see if you can tell where the big leak is originating? Guys say the oil coolers like to start their leaking when it’s cold.

Is there anything you have worked on recently? I’d start by looking there.

I would rethink installing the HPX. This just adds a couple more potential leak points and a line you have to work around in the valley. I believe the Adrenaline HPOP already has the check valves removed so there would be zero benefit with adding the additional line.

 

I thought the HPx would make the engine run quieter.

 

Does the lpop usually leak oil on these engines after 300k miles?

 

Concept of the HPx is to balance the HPO pressure between engine banks. There are check valves in the OEM HPOP outlet for each hose. That separates the banks.

The aftermarket HPOPs come without the check valves. So the pressure is balanced to the banks within the pump.

Hope the quick explanation makes sense.

 

It does thank you very much.

 

I had the SS HPX and eventually removed it. I removed the check valves on my T500 HPOP and accomplished the same thing without the two extra connections on the head that always seemed to be weeping.

The last time I had oil "pouring out" it turned out to be my oil dipstick tube adapter on the side of the pan.

 

reminds me of the pygmies in africa.. what they would kill a pig or so they would cut off the ear and put on a string. all the old stuff you have a wire, AIH, turbo wheels, and what looks like EBPV plungers is interesting.. or maybe that was from "apocalypse now" movie. and it was ears from humans. ??

 

wanted to make a comment on the EBPV as exhaust brake. After spending the past 17 months traveling full time RV ng especially out west i can tell you the mod to engage the valve and lock TQ for down hill is very nice..

We tow a 2005 airstream that weighs some 8200 lbs loaded... on I-17 north of phoenix heading towards Flagstaff there is Black creek canyon pass. about 7 mile south of Camp Verde exit you start a 7 mile 6% grade DOWN.. I come to the top at about 45 mph and click off the OD,, when my speed get to about 60ish mph i flip the switch to engage the exhaust brake.. now the rpm is about 2400 rpm so when the valve closes (it takes about 3-4 seconds) the speed stay constant all the way more or less.. I might have to jab the brakes once or twice just to keep speed around 60 for the entire 7 miles. the sign says 6% bit there is a section when you round the curve and the valley comes into play that is like 7 or so... for just a 1/2 mile or so but the speed ramps up is you are not careful..

so as a person that uses the valve it a must have when towing anything over like 5K..

when i did my PM work several years ago and had the turbo off the do bearing, o-rings etc on the ped I check the valve for operation.. it would stick a bit due to the rough nature of a casting so i too some emery cloth and smooth the area where the valve blade contacts the housing so to prevent the stick issue. I also sanded a slight bit off the cut edge of the blade to help smooth flow.

I did not do the EBPV rebuild as it was dry as a bone,, but did remove the red line and turn adjustment on waste gate to max pressure to keep it closed. also replace with older type WW to overcome the surge, never could get the 4x4 blade to screw on the shaft..

thus far it been a bullet proof truck with only one issue with the tin nut on the sensor on the HPOP was loose and leaking oil.. I notice a small puddle under the truck and check oil was low to bottom of hash marks.. first thing i checked was the tin nut due to hearing about how it can loosen up and sure enough it was loose.. so now at ever oil change i give it a feel.. also had a fitting on the oil cross line leaking so that was easy fix.

was hoping to sell it when we got back to NC for the holidays and get a 2018 ram.. GASP, clutch the pearls,,, to upgrade the creature comforts and get a freaking cummins OK.. but used truck price are **** high to a giraffe right now. so the change may have to wait.. sell is good as people are paying ridiculous prices for used trucks.

 

@carl2591 how does your EBPV and TC lock circuit work? Do you have a parts list/schematic? I'm researching the different ways this is done by folks.

 

Here is my wiring schematic. U need a 2 pole double throw switch and some diodes 14 watts? was the one I used. Disregard the dashed lines. Was trying g to figure way to turn ebpv off in cold weather idea. you want to add the diodes in the green /red side line to plug.. that is the positive ,, the other is to ground or neutral

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thanks to BWST..

 

I had Bob's TC Lockup on my wish list of projects for years but I never got around to doing it: Welcome to guzzle's TC Lockup Mod Web Page (guzzle7pt3.com)

 

If I still had a stock platform turbo and an EBPV pedestal, I might be interested in trying the EBPV as an exhaust brake. Although, I have a ZF6 transmission, so there would be no manipulation of the TC or 4R100 going on.

In all of my travels towing heavy, I have never been in a situation where I felt like I needed more slowing or stopping power. I have never been in a situation where I needed more control of the descent than I had with the transmission in a proper gear augmented by the service brakes and/or trailer brakes.

That said, perhaps I just don't know what I am missing. I assume it is a lot like the ZF6 controlling speed down a steep grade (towing 5th wheel) with the occasional quick stab of the brakes. Perhaps the ZF6 and EBPV would be a dynamic duo and allow for no brake input at all. I drive like I have nowhere to be at a maximum of 65 MPH and down a grade as slow as I please. Usually I will have the truck in 3rd, but sometimes in 2nd and rarely in 1st. I start the descent at my desired speed instead of cresting the grade and attempting to slow or attain the desired speed.

The dynamic duo sounds nice, but when I read about the TC and 4R100 issues some people are experiencing, it makes me cringe a bit. I sincerely hope y'all have good success in your aspirations of using the transmission and EBPV as a means to control the effects of gravity, but just be careful.

This is a great thread with all sorts of advice, testimony and experience sharing.

 

When functioning properly, it removes the need to stab the brakes. It feels like your hooked to a sea anchor and it's preventing you from accelerating.

I had the EBPV brake mod and TC lockup w/ my 4r100 truck. It was not nearly as effective as my friends Banks Brake and ZF6.
I was told that it will prematurely wear my transmission if it hasn't been modified/upgraded with more robust parts, I think the reverse band.

I removed it and just rely on trailer brakes more heavily.

 

No "reverse band" in an E4OD/4R100.

The weak link in these autos is the coast clutch - and this is only used in ranges 1-3. 4th gear is not affected by this. Then again, unless a person is going 90 MPH in 4th gear, the exhaust brake is pretty useless. 3rd gear at 60-70, yep, BIG difference. There are tuning changes that need to be made to keep a stock transmission happy under these circumstances.

 

Hey everybody I will have all of my upgrade parts by the end of today but I don't think I will be able to start the tear down this weekend. I don't know when yet but when I do I hope ya''l will wish me luck that all goes smooth and solves all of my 7.3 issues. Thank you all for your support!!!!!