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Interesting use of a hard line for the oil feed. Angling the turbo like that might have solved my vane actuator cowl clearance issue also. I wonder if this makes it look enough like a factory system for the CA guys to pass inspection.
Not if the inspector is looking for Garrett, red/green vacuum lines and the OEM wastegate.
Not if the inspector is looking for Garrett, red/green vacuum lines and the OEM wastegate.
That sounds like an opportunity for the engine "dress up" industry right there.
"Step rrright uppp! Get your genuine fake wastegate, pressure lines and Garrett casting simulator hereeeee!"
Andrew quoted me at 2650 for the kit, turbo, boots and clamps. Not sure if that included some of the custom work to mate up to my banks pipes, but he was more than willing to work with what I had.
He would also take shipment of turbos if you want to source yours elsewhere as he machines the turbine side to mate to the stock downpipe flange. I'm sure you could ask him to leave it alone if you would rather mess with the down pipe..
I have only installed Irate’s kit, but I’ve done (3) so far. I would buy it again.
You’ll need a different intake setup or to modify The IDP intake for AIS.
The factory CAC hot pipe will not replace the IDP pipe.
E99 CAC pipes are aluminum and less desirable than 2000+ aluminized steel.
I like the SS Irate tubing. Mine still shines up like new even after +150k miles. Painted CAC pipes only look good until they’re scratched.
My IDP oil return is a hard line from bottom of turbo to center of the valley. Installing it is a PITFA. I have said I’m going to have a flex hose built to replace it next time my turbo is out.
The 2-piece down pipe is probably easier to install, but is a PITA to get lined up. I have a post turbo exhaust leak and I’m pretty sure it’s from the DP.
On turbo size, I can only weigh in that I trust the guys promoting the 363sxe. These aren’t all rocket scientists or chemists, but they are damn smart and not easily fooled by fancy packaging and hype. When you talk about tuners on the forum, there are always drum beaters for one guy or another. But, they went from a stock truck to a ‘tuned truck’ - of course they have a smile on their face. Fast forward to people that have a chip full of tunes from a pile of tuners trying to get their truck to run like they want. The latter group’s opinion has a lot more traction.
So far, most of the Goof Troop have had more than 2 turbos on the same truck. These are high value opinions - IMHO.
Ssj, how is the irate oil return a pia? I installed my 363 yesterday, it took me 30 seconds at most to align and tighten the Irate drain line, I find it easier then csd.
Ssj, how is the irate oil return a pia? I installed my 363 yesterday, it took me 30 seconds at most to align and tighten the Irate drain line, I find it easier then csd.
I think the design has changed.
This hard line and base that bolts in valley are not fun.
Maybe Irate did away with the bolt plate. Per Irate the piece was never designed to be bolted "down" the 2 bolts were to line it up and hold it from spining while assembling. They say to leave the bolts loose so it has some vertical movement. Leave the turbo to turbine housing bolts slightly loose so you can rotate the center section, rotate bottom of housing towards rear of engine, hold the drain tube, and rotate the center section forward as you do so the drain tube will slip right in between the mount on bottom of center section and the mount in the valley, at this point start threading the fittings but dont snug, now do final tightening of the bolts holding center section to turbine housing to hold it, your oil feed should be nearly vertical on the top of the center section. From the tighten the drain tube, first to fitting on center section outlet, then to valley fitting, if needed lightly pry or push the vally mount up before tightening drain tube to it. Now, if desired, feel free to thread the two anti rotate bolts till they touch the braket, but do not snug them and pull the bracket down. If you are ocd like myself you can remove the 2 bolts side appropriate thickness washers under bracket and then be able to snug the 2 bolts tight. If you ever swap turbo those bolts can stay in place and oil drain line can quickly be removed and replaced/reinstalled in a matter of seconds by simply loosening each end of the drain tube and rotating the center section. I actually really like this design.
Ya... I very much prefer the CSD oil drain over Irate every day of the week that ends in Y. Obsession and AA I don't know enough about to make a statement.
No instructions with the CSD kit either, that is why I made the video. In order to give people a general idea of what the install involves.
In my opinion, it was more difficult to create the video than it was to install the CSD T and SXE turbo.
Ya... I very much prefer the CSD oil drain over Irate every day of the week that ends in Y. .
Why? Ever worked with an Irate?
I swapped turbo or turbine on my csd kit truck 4 times in last year and a half, swapped the the turbine and turb on my Irate kit truck yesterday. Other then the hot side pipe, and not liking either intake pipe compared to my own method, I would prefer to work with the Irate kit any day of the week. It was faster and easier. To each his own, they are both good quality kits.
I most certainly agree about making videos, super hard to get decent and extremely time consuming to compile and edit.