Personal preference is all, no valid reason to anyone else most likely. I don't care and didn't care for the hole and plumbing in the valley.

I found absolutely nothing about removing/installing the oil drain and feed lines on the CSD kit even remotely difficult or cumbersome. Based on your instructions and the fact that I trust and value your opinion, I get that the Irate kit is the same for you and many others.

I am in no way a "what I bought is the best" person because i know and preach that every truck, situation, goal and owner is different.

I suspect and hope now that my fuel lines are new and the 363 is the right turbo for my application, I will not have any tools in or near the engine for 100,000 miles...

That is just me though and I am an odd duck at times.

Although, SSJ keeps hinting that I would love 160/0 injectors...

 

my cncfab 4 line feed makes the csd oil retuen line a tad harder to remover. I def get not wanting to remove that freeze plug. I dont know if I would touch injectors if they are still working well, the little bump in power is always nice though.

 

I did say I wouldn’t be in a hurry for those injectors to die. That truck runs great - even better now. But when the time comes......... 160’s and never look back!!!

 

Thank you everyone for your input and resources. After pouring over all the information offered, I've decided to go with the CSD kit and the S363/68/.91.

Per the kit, I went with CSD because of price, the extensive install documentation outlined here, how it keeps the oil lines farther away from the firewall than other solutions (I do recall the thread where an OBS owner suffered an engine fire; their kit had a firewall facing oil line). I have a camping trip coming up in three-ish weeks and I'd like to have it ready to go before then, elsewise I would have spent the time and assembled a kit piecemeal. If I want to retain the stock CCV port assembly, I could ask CSD if they'd be willing to leave out the intake pipe in exchange for a small discount on the price?

With the turbo, I declined to go with the 0.83 housing simply because I don't think they'd good fit with the 160/0 injectors I'll get when my current set kicks the bucket.

Will go with RR for the plenums and cold pipe if I need it.

On an aside, I think I should do a fuel bowl reseal, replace fuel lines to the heads, and check injector bolt torque while I have everything apart. Are the RR flexible lines preferable over OEM hard lines for T4 setups?

*She ; P

I wonder if a solution to this would be to restrict the size of the vent's connection to the air intake? Obstruct the flow from the crank case a little to counteract the greater vacuum being applied to it?

 

Cncfab makes a really nice 4 line feed kit that is designed for a t4 kit, all stainless hard lines. You can retain the oem fuel bowl, or use the delete block and pair with an airdog II or similar. I have one with bowl retain, and one with an airdog II. No complaints, great kits.

 

I understand your concept but would not recommend any type of “restricting” of the CCV. The engine needs to vent well and I would not want to take a chance of it not. Venting to atmosphere isn’t too bad if it turns out to be an issue. I didn’t see any crazy vacuum readings during my testing. The AIS was only about double the 6637 measured at the CCV port 2in-Hg vs 1inHg if I remember correctly. And this was just at WOT. Under normal driving it doesn’t seem to be an issue. I would try it and just be prepared to route to atmosphere if it pulls too much oil through. I was planning on putting mine back eventually but just haven’t gotten around to it. I have to admit, having an oil free intake tract is kinda nice even if I do get a whiff of oil smell every now and then.

I agree with your reasoning for going CSD. That’s the same reason I went that route with mine. So much help was available heresy FTE, which I needed during my install. Hopefully the install write up paired with Sous’s video will fill in all the blanks but we are here to help if needed.

 

PriusLover, I have a couple of thoughts if you don't mind me sharing them.

1. 3-ish weeks to purchase, receive, install, test and then take camping seems like a tight schedule. I am not saying it isn't possible, just seems like a tight timeline.

2. I just replaced my OEM fuel lines with Riffraff braided lines. But, if I were looking to do all 4, I would select CNC 4 way feed. There is a bit of a gotcha with the front head ports. A crow foot wrench helps a lot and on the driver side pulling the alternator bracket out about an inch helps a mile.

I didn't and don't see a need for the 4 way feed in my situation, that is why I stuck with the factory replacements.

That said, the OEM lines were still working great, but I wanted to renew the passenger side head seal while the turbo was out.

3. It is critical to the longevity of your engine that the CCV not be obstructed in any way.

4. You can check the injector bolts torque, but I opted not to check mine in 2018 because they are performing quite well, even though they are getting tired at 255,000 miles.

5. If you are taking the valve covers off, test the glow plugs and replace if needed. Only go through a reputable source for Motorcraft.

6. The 363/68/.91 is a beast of a turbo and you will NOT be disappointed.

7. Have fun with it!

 

I don’t have time to read the whole post, find my E99 T4 post and browse it as there was a few E99 specific items I mention in the post that may help.

 

Below is the link to RideDan2's E99 T4 turbo install.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-journey.html

 

I vote for CNC Fab 4-line feed. This is a solution for the #8 deadhead ‘problem’ and has no negatives that I’m aware of. I’ve been doing the equivalent of this on veggie conversions for about 15yrs now. Remove the bolts from AC and alternator brackets and let them move forward for glorious access to the front fuel ports. You have to channel some Stevie Wonder to ‘see’ the rear ports. Do this BEFORE installing new up-pipes and after removing the old ones.

Use an air chisel to ‘gently’ tap the top slit in the clamp for the up-pipe collector to turbo. There is no easier way to remove it. Check out this thread for other tips regarding removing the old up-pipes.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lete-pics.html

Do the $0.52 mod while VC’s are off.

There is no harm in checking injector bolts, but I have yet to see a loose bolt cause a problem on a factory installation. Ford says as long as they are at least 50in lbs they are fine. It’s not wrong to leave them alone like Sous did.

It’s easy and relatively inexpensive to replace GP’s while VC’s are off. Might as well.

AT LEAST rebuild the fuel bowl drain valve with upgraded (blue) o-rings. I very rarely see other failures/leaks on the fuel bowl.

Clean the EBP sensor tube.

STUFF A RAG IN EACH INTAKE PLENUM AS SOON AS YOU REMOVE THE ‘SPIDER’!! Replacing the plenums isn’t too bad with turbo, etc out of the way. Use Motorcraft TA31 sealant and add Riffraff plenum inserts if using OEM style plenums. The front bolt near front cover does not come all the way out. The plenum is slotted for that hole. I have no problem with OEM plenums with inserts, but the Riffraff plenums are really nice parts if you have the budget.

Consider upgrading the HPO hoses. I’ve installed a bunch of CNC Fab hoses and like them. Skip the crossover - it has no benefits except additional potential points of failure. Slice some rubber hose or install heavy duty wire loom over the hoses because I have been unable to convince Corey to use the Hytrel covering on his hoses....

I prefer stock exhaust with kitty gutted for stock injectors. There are only marginal gains from muffler delete and it’s especially nice to keep the cabin in an Excursion QUIET. In the unlikely event that EGT is an issue, you can upgrade to a more free flowing muffler in the future.

The AIS or an S&B intake will be the quietest options for intake. You’ll need advice from other CSD installers on how to use these.

 

RacinJasonWV: Haha no worries! Perhaps it was a mistake to say "obstruct" when speaking about the CCV; I was more-so meaning using a tube with a slightly smaller ID for connecting the vent to the intake. Regardless, how would I be able to tell whether the intake was pulling too much oil from the CCV?

Dan: Thank you for documenting your journey. I read through it a bunch last week, and will continue to review it as I continue. One thing jumped out to me: why did you decide to go with the 13009097047 as opposed to the 13009097006 (~74 vs 68 exducer respectively)?

Sous: Yes it is certainly a lot to do in a short amount of time. Because it depends entirely on when the parts get here, it's more of an ideal than a strict plan (we can take our hatchback if need be).

SkySkiJason: The four-line feed is really nice. Compared to just replacing the OEM fuel lines with RR flex lines, it'd be about $175 extra. On one hand could potentially quiet down the really annoying intermittent knock that happens upon deceleration*, on the other hand could do nothing.

Alrighty. Day One!






Removed the stock turbo assembly, up pipes disconnected (need to be fished out still). Up and down pipes were rusted to the turbo so had to bring a hammer, small crowbar, and ton of PB blaster to the party. Was able to disconnect the up pipes from the manifolds using a mid torque impact with extension and u-joint, using a breaker to keep the bolt from spinning... didn't even have to remove the wheel-well liner!



Seems like the up-pipes were indeed leaking.



Driver side valve cover off. All injector and rocker arm bolts were torqued to spec. None of the rocker arms look cracked. Is there a way to test the GP resistance with the batteries disconnected?



Injector #8 was replaced with an Alliant at some point. Wonder if this was done to try and address the intermittent knock? Anyone know when they started selling 7.3 injectors?



When removing the harness some of these little plastic tabs broke off and went *somewhere*. If they did fall near the injectors I doubt they'd do any harm(?). Should I replace the harness or will it be fine with those little tabs missing?



The hard lines to and from the bowl look rather sad. I suppose I should replace the pump-to-bowl lines in addition to head lines.



HPOP lines also look pretty sad.




The valley and the right side of the head in general is *caked* with oil and detritus... unfortunately a poor critter tried to seek shelter on the warm engine and didn't meet a good end (please check your engines in the winter). I'm having a hard time ascertaining what could have caused such a thick buildup of dried oil. Whatever it was coated the valley 'n' pedestal, ran down the back and the passenger side of the oil pan, coated the passenger side intercooler tube and on to the intercooler, and made it's way around the crankshaft pulley.

I'd like to start cleaning the valley and get some Corroseal and paint on it while I wait for parts. Would need to find a way to block off the plenums and turbo oil holes so I don't get liquid 'n' debris down 'em.


*When the truck was together I took a video while driving to try and illustrate the knock better; don't think the videos in my other thread conveyed it clearly. Gets pretty audible after 8 seconds. Literally sounds like there's a small gremlin in the engine bay tapping the firewall with a wooden mallet. https://youtu.be/HyIzQxfUIYY

 

My feeling on “too much” for the CCV is if your oil level is going down. The CCV will always put a film of oil into the intake tract so not sure you could tell from there. SSJ had previously said he ran a 38r with the AIS and found it to use oil on his towing trip. Personally I feel like the AIS is so quiet that it’s worth routing the CCV to atmosphere if needed to keep the AIS.

I don’t want to speak for Dan, but the 68mm turbine SXE being used with the 7.3 is new to the forum. In the past everyone was running the 73mm. It was only recently that the tide has changed on this. I think you came in at the perfect time for a T4 install project. The 68mm weirdos were dubbed the Goof Troop at some point before it became an accepted option. We will be glad to add you as a member.

The knock…. I can’t really hear it in your video. I tried to find your 1-3 videos but they weren’t on your YouTube channel. I’m thinking they are accessible by link only.
Have you done the Hutch mod yet? The Hutch helps prevent air from getting into the fuel system and I found it to noticeably quiet the injectors in both our trucks. Might be worth a try before adding the fuel feed kit. The in tank screens plug up so most folks feel this is a required mod for our aging trucks.

Have you removed the fuel line clamps from the heads? They will wear through the lines. You can just remove them.

I agree with Sous about the tight timeline. Like you said, parts delivery is a BIG factor in this. Glad to hear you have a backup plan.

 

“Dan: Thank you for documenting your journey. I read through it a bunch last week, and will continue to review it as I continue. One thing jumped out to me: why did you decide to go with the 13009097047 as opposed to the 13009097006 (~74 vs 68 exducer respectively)?”

When I questioned CSD at the time, they said they didn’t use the 68mm on the 7.3 so I took there word for it. No regrets, I am very happy with it.

 

I don’t know what corroseal is, but I use rustoleum 2x stuff on engines with great success. For hot parts (exhaust), I use VHT Flameproof (2000*).

 

You have gotten a lot done already and you are well on your way! The hatchback is a great backup plan and I am glad to hear there is one in place. Murphy tends to show up when we least expect it.

Those HPOP lines have seen better days, that is for sure. I don't remember if they were on your list, but if not, I would recommend they receive a spot now.

That little piece of plastic is of no worry if you cannot find it.

As for testing the glow plugs with the UVCH off, yes, you can do that. This quote was taken from the PC/ED volume of the Ford Service Manual. Section 4A: Diagnostics Subroutines.
My engine valley was pretty well grime covered and I spent a good deal of time with a bottle of Simple Green, tooth brush and a few rolls of paper towels to get it cleaned off. I can still remember working on the passenger side valve cover and finding the International sticker on it. That was like a small victory in the major battle of cleaning the engine. I spent hours in there cleaning, literally kneeling where the driver side battery and airbox are currently at. My truck was owned by a rancher that transported horses from LA to TX and back for a living. So, it had been used, but thankfully it was not abused.

What a great feeling though looking in now and seeing the clean engine and very dry valley.