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Yes we do have a Mennonite community. I need to locate someone from there. They built a shed at my father in laws house, but I don't have his contact info.
That is probably the best bet.
My building will be a red iron building. I'm having a 3:12 pitch to closer match the house. They usually do a 1:12 pitch. The higher pitch will also assure I have enough room for a lift....once I save up the money for one. The building costs keep adding up.
They gave me a list of names, but I'm not confident those names have experience. I didn't get a good feel from the sales guy on their relationship with the suggested contractors. I will contact some of them. It may come down to finding anyone willing to do the work. I'm pleased with my concrete work, but he was the only person that would even give me a bid.
I have a place called Sunbelt Rentals about 1/2 a mile from me. I went online and a 16' lift is around $1200 for a week. So, finding a contractor with the right equipment will be critical.
We are a bit more relaxed on building permits around here. I just had to describe it all and list my main contractor and electrical contractor.
Do your due diligence with the suggested names, you will be money and stress free ahead by using one of them. In this day and age of litigation alot of metal bldg manufacturers will not give recommendations just offer a list of contractors who they are familiar with. If you are going to be an owner builder make sure your insurance agent knows this and be sure to verify all sub contractors insurance certificates. Cover your backside thoroughly
Joe,
I agree, as the building cost can get up there quick too! Hope things are going good and moving forward on your shop project. What is your weather? Do you have a start date for the building going up? I know that some of these crews put the structure up in just a couple days to week! We have a lot more snow here so roof pitches must be a lot steeper too. We were doing rough wiring today.
Regards,
Chris
Joe,
Hope your building is progressing nicely! Any pictures/ updates? Since I am still working on mine instead of a truck your thread is a place for me to relate.
Regards,
Chris
It's going slow. I haven't been real impressed with the company designing the building.
I did get two preliminary drawings today. They have an issue with my requested design. One garage door is in the center of the building. To do that they would need to move the center support truss. They said doing that would cost more, but didn't say how much. Having the building with the garage doors between the center of the building will give really change the dynamic of how I use the space.
My layout:
I can see a pretty good increase in cost to the company. Span restraints won't allow them to do it the way you want. They will have to add an additional main truss, which will mean you would have two main trusses one between each door. They usually design these to their material restraints in mind but they can do anything if the customer is willing to pay for the changes.
I can see a pretty good increase in cost to the company. Span restraints won't allow them to do it the way you want. They will have to add an additional main truss, which will mean you would have two main trusses one between each door. They usually design these to their material restraints in mind but they can do anything if the customer is willing to pay for the changes.
That would make sense, but their diagram doesn't include another truss. Their diagram has the main truss in the center.
They are proposing a 30'/10' location of the main truss. I just sent an email off asking why they couldn't put the truss between my garage door location. If I expand the space between the doors to 4' instead of 3' it would give a 16'/24' split. I would think that would be more stable than the 30/10 split.
I just googled it and one builder mentions a maximum of 20' span. If that's the case then they would need the extra truss. We will see what they have to say.
Joe,
How many trusses are in their design? Per the drawing, it just shows a total of 3 trusses if you use trusses on both ends. Is snow/ice load near zero for your area?
So your original building design only had 3 truss/post supports? I'm no Engineer so just my opinion Joe. I would feel most comfortable with 4 total trusses equally spaced. One on each end and two in the middle. That would space them at 13.33 feet apart. So a door centered on the left would leave you some walkaround room . You could slide the second door to the left next to the post. This would leave you approximately 16-17' of shop space on the right side. I guess what I'm saying is design the shop around the main structure of the building. Make sure it is solid and structurally sound. What you do inside is very flexible. I am curious what a extra truss and supports will add to the cost? Also, when you put that engine hoist in you'll want to make sure those trusses are strong enough! LOL
I'm no engineer either, but a twenty feet span between trusses seems very extreme. I thought maybe four feet might be more the norm in an area where snow load wasn't a big concern. The trusses on my garage/shop are two feet on center, and I have a 12/12 pitch roof to help manage the snow load.
Okay. Thanks. Joe's design makes more sense now. Having a 20 foot span between trusses should probably substantially cut down on the amount of building materials. I know I had a truck load of expensive trusses delivered.
Yep, I haven't heard back from them yet today. I will give a call after lunch. I'm heading to a Home Builders Association show at our mall at lunch to look for builders.
When I saw the large span on my design I was concerned. We don't get a lot of snow, but we do on occasion. Like this week we had 8-10 inches total. The more I look at it the more I figure they forgot to add that truss in the preliminary drawing.
One of the reasons I went with red iron steel is because you can have the height where wood trusses take up a lot of vertical space.
Now on the side without the doors I hope to build some storage overhead. But that can wait.
The picture Kevin posted shows a more standard 1:12 roof pitch. I'm going with 3:12 to closer match my house and give more vertical space for a lift.
My son's future father in law is getting his lift installed soon. I will check that one out closely when he gets it. He lives 20 minutes from me and between me and my grandson.... I guess my daughter lives with my grandson too, but, priorities.
With a 3/12 pitch and 12 ft outer walls, you should have no trouble with a lift as long as it is not installed under a truss. The j purlins are attached to the top of the truss. They can adjust your spans to a certain amount, but gauges of metal J purlins is increased, more intermediate bracing, more longitude and lateral bracing. In other words considerable additional costs. I would suggest to play with your doors and use their design using 3 trusses, if that does not work for you than go with adding a truss. If you have snow , the city should have requirements on the snow load calculations. I personally would not exceed 20 ft span if snow was in the equation. I would think once you went out of the standard design the builder would have to resubmit his drawings to the city or county planning dept
20' spacing is normal between trusses on a steel frame building. Ask if you can use a header to carry the end of the middle truss? If so, the only addition would be one post and the header beam.
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