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Might take a look at fuse #6 (15 amp) in the in cabin fuse panel, as it protects the fuel selector, which in turn effects the fuel gauge. It also protects the air conditioner clutch.
That is exactly the reason why I have not touched my selector valve since I bought the truck.
Am going to move the system over to the 38 rear mod, completely eliminate the switching valve, and use the midship as a holding / transfer tank. Might take the first steps in this direction shortly as I may have a reason to drop the midship tank.
In doing the quick mental math, the 38 gallon rear tank mod should cost less than replacement of a selector valve with a bonus of improving reliability of the truck
That is exactly the reason why I have not touched my selector valve since I bought the truck.
Am going to move the system over to the 38 rear mod, completely eliminate the switching valve, and use the midship as a holding / transfer tank. Might take the first steps in this direction shortly as I may have a reason to drop the midship tank.
In doing the quick mental math, the 38 gallon rear tank mod should cost less than replacement of a selector valve with a bonus of improving reliability of the truck
Exaaaaaactly. I am not sure why more don't go this route. I always hated the two tank thing.
I do not mind dual tanks and actually like the theory of it. But am reading too many reports of that expensive switching valve failing which has me focusing on eliminating it. At one point my OBS had three tanks as one of the POs installed a transfer tank in the bed, and then another PO yanked the tank but left all of the wiring and hoses.
Would actually like a OE dual tank system in the SD, but really have not needed it with the stock 38 gallon tank which holds ~40 when accounting for the filler neck. I did look into larger tanks, but the price tags were not appealing. Thought about a transfer tank in the bed, but I actually use all of the bed.
Originally Posted by Edgethis
Man you guys get all the fun projects....Im over here just trying not to freeze...
Making nice with the job handlers is always a good thing as they have a big influence on where the next PCS lands
I have no issue keeping the selector valve if that ends up being the issue.
The original one lasted 244k miles and 26 years, I'm sure everything will be electric by the time the replacement fails.
If it fails before that the front tank is getting scrapped and the rear tank will be the only tank. Could always plumb in a sweet air compressor tank in the front spot.
Got the truck home last night. Adding 5 gallons of diesel to the rear tank stopped the pump from pulling air, so this confirms that my selector is stuck on the rear tank.
I pulled fuse #6 and it was not blown, so a new selector valve is on its way....
Got the truck home last night. Adding 5 gallons of diesel to the rear tank stopped the pump from pulling air, so this confirms that my selector is stuck on the rear tank.
I pulled fuse #6 and it was not blown, so a new selector valve is on its way....
Where did you find one? I thought they were scarce anymore.
Coming along great man. I'm in the two tank fan club as well, it was only a few years back you couldn't buy, the selector valve, DEGAS bottle, Windshield fluid bottle, door handles, and other little nick knacks for these trucks thankfully the aftermarket and some OEM parts started to become available.
Finally installed the new selector valve. 450 dollars later from Riff Raff and it was on my door step. I opted to wait until the weekend barring any issues that pop up. It's always that 20 minute install that turns into 4 hours of swearing. 🤬
Both bolts stripped trying to take it out, the captured nuts broke loose from the plastic bracket. Ended up needing to Sawzall the top bolt off.
What was interesting was when I was disconnecting lines, the front tank source port was leaking through the rear tank source port. Not sure if that was because the unit was bad or it got stuck in-between changing tanks. Must have configured the access control list wrong.