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I got the Derale T stat hung, and then realized I had the big barb the wrong way. I swear I'm dyslexic... Main reason for a trans t stat is due to my daily commute only bringing the trans temp up to 130 at best, and my E4OD is very sluggish until the temp gets up to 100 degrees or so. I went with the 1/2" NPT version that @Colorado350 used awhile back.
Next up is installing these 3/8's 4R100 lines, and the 26 row 6.0 cooler. Should be pretty straight forward install, I'll have to make sure to get a comparison shot between my 30k tru cool and this 6.0 cooler. The 6.0 cooler is roughly half an inch thicker than the tru cool unit.
You added a thermostat on the trans fluid? Did you make a housing for it?
Or that the housing merbob there on the last picture?
That is it in the last picture. Sadly I will be removing it this morning. On my way to work yesterday and home, my fluid barely hit 130. This T stat cracks open at 180, so my cooler will never get used. I reached up and grabbed the cooler when I got home and it was ice cold, no fluid ran through it.
I still need to make lower mounts for the cooler as well.
If the commute is short, makes sense that the trans fluid is not getting all that warm. Even in the mild Florida winter. Suspect that 15 minutes at highway speed will get the temp up to ~190 F.
Removing the thermostat certainly will not hurt and reduces the number of failure points. Especially when pulling a load as I'd prefer to have a fail-open part in this situation rather than one that is normally closed or can get stuck somewhere in the middle.
This sort of gets to the point where we start overthinking stuff. You have a big cooler on there, so just run it the way it was designed. You don't need all of the extras, IMO. I mean, if you're just bored and trying to reinvent the wheel, go ahead. But, there comes a point with mods where they need to be sidelined. I am sure @Mark Kovalsky will have some good input on this, or maybe he already has?
Use your regular block heater as ATF flows through the radiator to heat/cool. It should make the ATF warmer just by being attached to the engine I would think.
My ZF is real notchy cold even with Redline D4. Once at operating temp, I just use the clutch for starting out.
On my e99, AA has the tuning set where the tc stays unlocked more till truck is up to temp, this raises the fluid temp. Average for me since springtime has been 130° in about any type of driving, and then towing 12,000 pounds 145°, I do not think I have ever seen over 160°
Stock trans, JW vb, better converter, mishimoto cooler. Motorcraft merc v, new oem bypass
I have not driven much this winter, so not sure what temps are in below freezing weather
I'm too lazy to scroll back and see... Is the stock trans cooler still plumbed in? That should heat your trans fluid and then keep it at the correct temp during short light drives
Its plumbed into the radiator, and then to the 6.0 cooler. The couple days I've driven it, it looks to be about 25 degrees cooler on my commute ending up around 105 or 110 when I get home or two work.
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