Just make sure the SD guys have auto transmissions, to make sure it will work with your auto.

 

Khan,
Just reading through this,
I would def suggest the small 363 with a .91 housing. It is a great match with the 160/0, on auto or stick. I have been unable to find anything that I dont like about mine on my auto withmy 160/0. Unloaded is amazing, towing is amazing.
I drove my zf6 truck with 180/30 and a large turbine 364.5 yesterday. A friend has had it for 3 months waiting on me to do a zf6 swap for him when I have time
The 363 has way less smoke and lights about 200-300 rpms sooner.
The 364.5 on my zf6 has never made me complain it lights hard and keeps egts low, I have always been very happy with it, but now after so much time with the 363 on my auto and not touchin the zf6, I can tell I want to switch over to a 363 onthe zf6 truck as well.

Go with the small 363, if you dont like it, and want a bit bigger, I will mail you my like new 364.5 that is sitting in the shelf, or the one still in my zf6 truck, for a straight up trade.

 

I appreciate the insight from someone that's tried both the large and the small turbine. I will run with the 363/68/.91 and if I don't like it, I will take you up on your offer, but from the sounds of it, that won't be necessary.

Sounds like you're going to have two 364.5/73/.91 turbos for sale soon

 

Just read through this thread. Great work!

Noticed 15W/40 as the motor oil of choice. If a future PCS takes the truck to cooler climates, might consider 5W/40. Reasoning is that the injectors will benefit from the thinner weight during cold starts. This is more for the 6.0 crowd, but it does still benefit the 7.3 injectors too.

About those LED's. Have learned that reliability ties to price I got tired of swapping out the cheap stuff and do not go bargain shopping any more. Toward color, green is neat, although red is better for the eyes. Only downside to going red is having to completely take apart the cluster to remove the green film.

 

First oil change I did on this truck was T6 Rotella. But I'm not a fan of it since a few different injector builders say they can tell when rotella has been ran through. To me that makes it an inferior oil and would rather stay away from it. That being said I know there are a ton of people happy with it. I'll be trying out Traveller's 15w-40 on my next change and probably go with Triax 5w-40 or something similar in the winter.

I usually don't cheap out on stuff, but the LEDs were an impulse buy. When the first one goes ill probably order a whole set of good ones. I wouldn't mind going another color, but my gauges are green so until I decide to redo gauges, I'd rather not spend money on shipping them over a color change.

 

Question on the intake: what was the driving force on moving away from the S&B? Seemed like there was a reason, but did not catch what it was.

 

Ha the S&B intake. I thought it was a nice enough unit when I got it out of the box. But it was an extremely tight fit in my engine bay getting the boot to the intake pipe and to the rest of the assembly to fit. I also opted for the dry filter vs. the oiled. I was pretty happy with it when I first installed it. I pinched an O ring on the Riff Raff HPX and once that blew I was spewing tons of oil. By the time I got from CA to FL, that filter was almost black.

Between being being a pain to get on and off, as well as the plastic cover cracking and the filter needing a change, I decided to just go the 6637 route. I remember the fit was so bad I even went out and tried to find a longer boot locally because I literally had to bolt it to the intake pipe and hee-haw the rest of it into place and try to stretch the box into the mounting holes. Maybe I was doing it wrong, maybe it's supposed to fit that way, I don't know. If the cover hadn't cracked I probably would have gotten a longer boot and would still have it installed.

I figured for something I was probably going to take on an off almost every time I was going to do engine work, I decided to swap away. The 6637 assembly is a breeze to take on and off and the filter sock is awesome for extending the life of the filter. I now run the Donaldson Blue 6637 compared to the regular white one.

I know @Hit Man X runs the S&B and has no complaints.

 

Khan-artist is correct, I have the S&B. Forgot what filter is in mine. Oiled probably with that sock over it too.

It fits okay to me on my truck, not as good as other products from them. These trucks were built as an afterthought from Ford to have some marketshare with Dodge...why else do you think the downpipe is flat as a board?

Makes my point this: the assembly line was pumping them out so what fits one well could be crap on the other.

Khan needs a low stall converter before more power, otherwise all the new power will blow right through it and you will sit out at 3000rpm at WOT going no where fast until it locks.

 

I need a lot of things. But yes I do need to address the transmission. Still debating whether I want to send off for a Wyse or BTS or just throw a good billet TC and do the tugger mods.

 

I have just basic rebuilded trans with Sonnax Sure Cure Kit.(reputable Finnish builder)
​​​​​​Low stall triple clutch TC was added when engine mods started..

 

I am not an auto guy, but my understanding is that the low stall converter with the 7.3 is what makes all the difference. I have had one auto in an OBS awhile back. I HATED it and it was built by "one of the best". So take my experience for what it's worth.

 

My current trans is a rebuilt Ford unit with all the latest and greatest internals from the 1996? year. So you could say it's pretty lame.

No John Woods for me thanks. That being said I'm not sure I would want to wait 2+ months in line to get a BTS like @Dmco. I guess that means his trans are still highly regarded which isn't a bad thing.

I'll probably go the billet TC route (read PI Converter) and tugger mods because I only have 23k on this trans so far, I haven't even changed the ATF yet. I think a 1600-1800 rpm stall would be good.

 

Oh heck yeah. I did not realize it was that new. Yeah, just upgrade it and go with it. The E4OD really is pretty tough when it's built right.

 

I did a thing. I was tired of this crap steering wheel cover. Spent 5 hours wrapping it but it turned out decent.

 

Looks good I like that cord