Code red on 2002 7.3 Exc!
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,355
Likes: 5,951
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
You can test the solenoid, but I am not sure what the parameters are to indicate operational or faulty. I seem to recall 6.5 ohms from a post by aawlberninf350, but I could be wrong on both of those.
I will look for it when I get a chance later if you have not found it.
All bets were off when using Forscan with the 42 pin disconnected...
I will look for it when I get a chance later if you have not found it.
All bets were off when using Forscan with the 42 pin disconnected...
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
You can test the solenoid, but I am not sure what the parameters are to indicate operational or faulty. I seem to recall 6.5 ohms from a post by aawlberninf350, but I could be wrong on both of those.
I will look for it when I get a chance later if you have not found it.
All bets were off when using Forscan with the 42 pin disconnected...
I will look for it when I get a chance later if you have not found it.
All bets were off when using Forscan with the 42 pin disconnected...
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,215
Likes: 2,668
From: GA
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,215
Likes: 2,668
From: GA
“Four things commonly go wrong with the IPR:
In order....
1. Debris in the pilot valve:
Using a small screwdriver, gently push in on the end of the pilot valve assembly. You should feel the valve move about 1/8" in and out and return to its seat with a bit of snap.
Should the action of the valve be sticky at any point, use a combination of solvent, screwdriver motion and compressed air to clear any debris that may be trapped in its motion.
2. Debris in the actuator piston area:
Thoroughly clean the actuator body, piston, guide and pin. Lubricate them well with a very thin oil or solvent. Assemble the actuator only, but do not tighten. With the solvent as the lubricant, the piston should move freely.
I.E. if you shake the actuator assembly, you should hear the piston sliding around freely. This will not happen with motor oil as the lubricant.
3. Bad/Damaged external O Rings.
4. Defective Coil: IPR Coil Test OHMS: 10.2 - 10.6
Ford sells a rebuild kit consisting of the O Rings and a replacement solenoid nut. The Solenoid is NOT sold by itself. It comes only with a new Valve Assy.
Prior to considering replacing any part, some additional testing should be done.”
“2e. Injector Control Pressure Duty Cycle (ICP %) Spec: 10%-12% at idle, engine at 140F or > / NTE 20% while Cranking / 65% is closed (IPR Suspect)”
In order....
1. Debris in the pilot valve:
Using a small screwdriver, gently push in on the end of the pilot valve assembly. You should feel the valve move about 1/8" in and out and return to its seat with a bit of snap.
Should the action of the valve be sticky at any point, use a combination of solvent, screwdriver motion and compressed air to clear any debris that may be trapped in its motion.
2. Debris in the actuator piston area:
Thoroughly clean the actuator body, piston, guide and pin. Lubricate them well with a very thin oil or solvent. Assemble the actuator only, but do not tighten. With the solvent as the lubricant, the piston should move freely.
I.E. if you shake the actuator assembly, you should hear the piston sliding around freely. This will not happen with motor oil as the lubricant.
3. Bad/Damaged external O Rings.
4. Defective Coil: IPR Coil Test OHMS: 10.2 - 10.6
Ford sells a rebuild kit consisting of the O Rings and a replacement solenoid nut. The Solenoid is NOT sold by itself. It comes only with a new Valve Assy.
Prior to considering replacing any part, some additional testing should be done.”
“2e. Injector Control Pressure Duty Cycle (ICP %) Spec: 10%-12% at idle, engine at 140F or > / NTE 20% while Cranking / 65% is closed (IPR Suspect)”
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
You are probably right...
No, they do not seem OK... IPR should NOT be 65% when trying to start the engine. It should be no more than 20% when trying to start the engine.
Not likely... This is a very simple part of the truck and it will let you know if you did it wrong.
Maybe, but your readings indicate a HPO (high pressure oil) issue. 500 ICP is minimum for starting and IPR should be near 20%. If you unplugged the ICP, it will default to 725 by the PCM, so the problem is NOT likely the ICP sensor itself.
Your right, it is unlikely. Seeing as how the 42 pin connector was not reconnected at one point, you should retrace your steps and look for anything obvious. Did you rebuild the IPR or anything else associated with the HPO other than the HPOP lines?
Your immediate no start issue is NOT a gasket problem.
Your truck not starting might be a GP issue, but the HPO clues based on the readings is where your bloodhound should be sniffing.
Typically yes...
Do you hear the fuel pump come on when you turn the key to on? Open the drain valved on the back of the fuel bowl after turning the key to on and see if fuel comes spraying out.
Let us know what you see and find...
No, they do not seem OK... IPR should NOT be 65% when trying to start the engine. It should be no more than 20% when trying to start the engine.
Not likely... This is a very simple part of the truck and it will let you know if you did it wrong.
Maybe, but your readings indicate a HPO (high pressure oil) issue. 500 ICP is minimum for starting and IPR should be near 20%. If you unplugged the ICP, it will default to 725 by the PCM, so the problem is NOT likely the ICP sensor itself.
Your right, it is unlikely. Seeing as how the 42 pin connector was not reconnected at one point, you should retrace your steps and look for anything obvious. Did you rebuild the IPR or anything else associated with the HPO other than the HPOP lines?
Your immediate no start issue is NOT a gasket problem.
Your truck not starting might be a GP issue, but the HPO clues based on the readings is where your bloodhound should be sniffing.
Typically yes...
Do you hear the fuel pump come on when you turn the key to on? Open the drain valved on the back of the fuel bowl after turning the key to on and see if fuel comes spraying out.
Let us know what you see and find...
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
“Four things commonly go wrong with the IPR:
In order....
1. Debris in the pilot valve:
Using a small screwdriver, gently push in on the end of the pilot valve assembly. You should feel the valve move about 1/8" in and out and return to its seat with a bit of snap.
Should the action of the valve be sticky at any point, use a combination of solvent, screwdriver motion and compressed air to clear any debris that may be trapped in its motion.
2. Debris in the actuator piston area:
Thoroughly clean the actuator body, piston, guide and pin. Lubricate them well with a very thin oil or solvent. Assemble the actuator only, but do not tighten. With the solvent as the lubricant, the piston should move freely.
I.E. if you shake the actuator assembly, you should hear the piston sliding around freely. This will not happen with motor oil as the lubricant.
3. Bad/Damaged external O Rings.
4. Defective Coil: IPR Coil Test OHMS: 10.2 - 10.6
Ford sells a rebuild kit consisting of the O Rings and a replacement solenoid nut. The Solenoid is NOT sold by itself. It comes only with a new Valve Assy.
Prior to considering replacing any part, some additional testing should be done.”
“2e. Injector Control Pressure Duty Cycle (ICP %) Spec: 10%-12% at idle, engine at 140F or > / NTE 20% while Cranking / 65% is closed (IPR Suspect)”
In order....
1. Debris in the pilot valve:
Using a small screwdriver, gently push in on the end of the pilot valve assembly. You should feel the valve move about 1/8" in and out and return to its seat with a bit of snap.
Should the action of the valve be sticky at any point, use a combination of solvent, screwdriver motion and compressed air to clear any debris that may be trapped in its motion.
2. Debris in the actuator piston area:
Thoroughly clean the actuator body, piston, guide and pin. Lubricate them well with a very thin oil or solvent. Assemble the actuator only, but do not tighten. With the solvent as the lubricant, the piston should move freely.
I.E. if you shake the actuator assembly, you should hear the piston sliding around freely. This will not happen with motor oil as the lubricant.
3. Bad/Damaged external O Rings.
4. Defective Coil: IPR Coil Test OHMS: 10.2 - 10.6
Ford sells a rebuild kit consisting of the O Rings and a replacement solenoid nut. The Solenoid is NOT sold by itself. It comes only with a new Valve Assy.
Prior to considering replacing any part, some additional testing should be done.”
“2e. Injector Control Pressure Duty Cycle (ICP %) Spec: 10%-12% at idle, engine at 140F or > / NTE 20% while Cranking / 65% is closed (IPR Suspect)”
Tested solenoid below. Seems ok? Would be nice to have good one to test as many of the videos suggest. Ford here in Calgary wants 384 ca dollars 😞 for new IPR. About 150 in us I recall.
Could also be hpop
pump too I guess but was working before I did maintenance
does this look right ?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,137
Likes: 4,732
From: Henderson, NV
It looks like Sous and KubotaOrange76 have got you going down the right path now.I have bunch or IPR coils I can send you if you need them.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,215
Likes: 2,668
From: GA
looks like service manual says good spec is 10.2-10.6,
Im thinking stuck ipr? issues 1 or 2 above? You already replaced the ipr rings when you disassembled earlier?
Where are you located? I Have two good oem working iprs for spares i could loan you one.
You had a no-start condition before you took it all apart?
Check it closely for cracks on both ends at the plastic portion and where the connector is.
Im thinking stuck ipr? issues 1 or 2 above? You already replaced the ipr rings when you disassembled earlier?
Where are you located? I Have two good oem working iprs for spares i could loan you one.
You had a no-start condition before you took it all apart?
Check it closely for cracks on both ends at the plastic portion and where the connector is.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 260
Likes: 6
From: Southern Middle TN
If you rebuilt/resealed fuel bowl in your maintenance.
I would check post fuel bowl fuel pressure. Should be somewhere around 50-65 psi.
Unfortunately you cant get it from a PID in Forscan, you will have to hook a gauge in-line post fuel bowl.
Looks like you replaced FPR (fuel pressure regulator) with a new one. Maybe something not lined up here?
If you are getting a fair amount of white/blue smoke from the exhaust, you should be getting fuel, but...
I do agree the ICP numbers look low and IPR numbers look high on IPR%.
My cranking numbers are ~2,200 psi ICP and 38% IPR.
Just thinking out loud here...
Has the starter been replaced? Thinking the cranking RPM is a little low?
Again, just thinking out loud.
I would check post fuel bowl fuel pressure. Should be somewhere around 50-65 psi.
Unfortunately you cant get it from a PID in Forscan, you will have to hook a gauge in-line post fuel bowl.
Looks like you replaced FPR (fuel pressure regulator) with a new one. Maybe something not lined up here?
If you are getting a fair amount of white/blue smoke from the exhaust, you should be getting fuel, but...
I do agree the ICP numbers look low and IPR numbers look high on IPR%.
My cranking numbers are ~2,200 psi ICP and 38% IPR.
Just thinking out loud here...
Has the starter been replaced? Thinking the cranking RPM is a little low?
Again, just thinking out loud.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
looks like service manual says good spec is 10.2-10.6,
Im thinking stuck ipr? issues 1 or 2 above? You already replaced the ipr rings when you disassembled earlier?
Where are you located? I Have two good oem working iprs for spares i could loan you one.
You had a no-start condition before you took it all apart?
Check it closely for cracks on both ends at the plastic portion and where the connector is.
Im thinking stuck ipr? issues 1 or 2 above? You already replaced the ipr rings when you disassembled earlier?
Where are you located? I Have two good oem working iprs for spares i could loan you one.
You had a no-start condition before you took it all apart?
Check it closely for cracks on both ends at the plastic portion and where the connector is.
Issue I had was a leak and coolant smell. I figured oil cooler. Also had one glow plug code a short while back, so I decided to change out glow plugs, and while there did a bunch of other maintenance. Pedestal seals Turbo seals. Fuel bowl. Ipr clean and seals(seemed fine).
Located in Calgary AB
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
If you rebuilt/resealed fuel bowl in your maintenance.
I would check post fuel bowl fuel pressure. Should be somewhere around 50-65 psi.
I will get a gauge and check.
Unfortunately you cant get it from a PID in Forscan, you will have to hook a gauge in-line post fuel bowl.
Looks like you replaced FPR (fuel pressure regulator) with a new one. Maybe something not lined up here?
maybe spring crooked but thought all was good. Will pull apart again.
If you are getting a fair amount of white/blue smoke from the exhaust, you should be getting fuel, but...
almost no exhaust coming out.
I do agree the ICP numbers look low and IPR numbers look high on IPR%.
My cranking numbers are ~2,200 psi ICP and 38% IPR.
Would the IPR % be higher because enough pressure not being generated elsewhere? It closes (higher pressure) to get pressure up and opens to release pressure?
Just thinking out loud here...
Has the starter been replaced? Thinking the cranking RPM is a little low?
starter should be ok based on what I hear.
Again, just thinking out loud.
I would check post fuel bowl fuel pressure. Should be somewhere around 50-65 psi.
I will get a gauge and check.
Unfortunately you cant get it from a PID in Forscan, you will have to hook a gauge in-line post fuel bowl.
Looks like you replaced FPR (fuel pressure regulator) with a new one. Maybe something not lined up here?
maybe spring crooked but thought all was good. Will pull apart again.
If you are getting a fair amount of white/blue smoke from the exhaust, you should be getting fuel, but...
almost no exhaust coming out.
I do agree the ICP numbers look low and IPR numbers look high on IPR%.
My cranking numbers are ~2,200 psi ICP and 38% IPR.
Would the IPR % be higher because enough pressure not being generated elsewhere? It closes (higher pressure) to get pressure up and opens to release pressure?
Just thinking out loud here...
Has the starter been replaced? Thinking the cranking RPM is a little low?
starter should be ok based on what I hear.
Again, just thinking out loud.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
starting was no problem before maintance
Issue I had was a leak and coolant smell. I figured oil cooler. Also had one glow plug code a short while back, so I decided to change out glow plugs, and while there did a bunch of other maintenance. Pedestal seals Turbo seals. Fuel bowl. Ipr clean and seals(seemed fine).
Located in Calgary AB
Issue I had was a leak and coolant smell. I figured oil cooler. Also had one glow plug code a short while back, so I decided to change out glow plugs, and while there did a bunch of other maintenance. Pedestal seals Turbo seals. Fuel bowl. Ipr clean and seals(seemed fine).
Located in Calgary AB
As I said above. Starting was fine before maintenance so I’m still hopeful it was something I did or failed do on reassembly. Possible I screwed up IPR when took it apart but based on what I’ve learned, functioning seemed ok.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 260
Likes: 6
From: Southern Middle TN
No. Lack of fuel pressure will not cause low oil pressure.