Truck died after applying brake at exit on Parkway.. Guy told me the IPR valve likely stuck. Coil Ohms at a 10. Is this good, bad? Does the coil keep the valve open or closed. Thanks. By the way, this happened in August of 2013 and my truck is still setting in the garage.

 

Should be about 10.5v, 10.6v is spec I think.

If the IPR is sticking a rebuild kit is available.

You have suffered behind the wheel of an inferior vehicle for too long! Let's get that truck back on the road!

 

Not to nit pick here, but that value should be "ohms", not volts. I'm sure the OP understands that though.

 

Mine is reading a 10 even. Will this work? You telling me on the inferior vehice entrapment. My truck has so much dust on it you can't even see through the windows. I have a daughter that turns 4 next week. I was looking under the hood of my beautiful 2000 crew cab and she said, "I never seen that truck before daddy." UGH!!!! Reckon the 10 ohm reading is good enough?

 

IPR: Coil OHMS = 10.2 - 10.6 (Service Manual)

But, a Good Coil does not indicate a non-issue with the IPR as stated. Cranking the IPR should not exceed 20%. Otherwise you're either not making required volume/pressure.

 

I just checked again. jumping from 9.9 to 10.0 also, it's covered in dry oil. Problem is, truck did same thing in dec. of 2012. My mechanic (Never had one before I owned a diesel) and told me he got it running by placing a used IPR on it and after picking it up (Also put a new number 7 injector in) it ran fine until it did the same thing, same symptoms and coasted to the same spot after dying on the parkway after I pressed the brake and truck went to idle. He told me with the IPR messing up, once computer sam lower RPM's, it shut down due to low pressure from messed up IPR. He also, and I have the receipt, charged me for a new IPR at 166.00 and some change. when I took this coil off the other day, no way they ever put the new one on it. This one looks like an original. YOu can tell it's not 6 months old which was the time betewwn shutdowns.

 

I don't know if you want to fight with the guy over the part or not, or just go buy your own and change it out yourself. It's not that hard. I am not sure if the 10.0 OHMS is a problem or not, or if your IPR isn't the issue, but if it is, call Clay and get an OEM one and change it out yourself. I used a Craftsman 1/2 inch drive with a 29mm (or 1 1/8inch) socket. In the videos on youtube they talk about welding a rod onto the socket. I have no idea why. I didn't have to remove my fuel bowl, and used the socket and a socket wrench. It just took a little patience, not nearly as much patience as if I had to turn it 1/8 of a turn and remove and repeat 100 times because I welded a rod to a socket like an idiot...

Here is a video where they weld it, but the other info is good.

 

As near as I can tell my IPR (valve) not coil kept me stranded on the side of Route 66 twice for a total of 18 hours, and a night in a hotel along with a day of wrenching using borrowed tools i.e. not fun.

I would replace the entire thing if you remotely think that is the issue.

 

D'oh! Thanks Roland! FTE brotherhood FTW!

That is way better than a rebuild, and with the solenoid at 10 or less ohms a new IPR is the ticket.

Well there's a couple other details that could point to trouble. Dying at the same spot can be due to a crappy aftermarket ICP sensor going haywire due to radio interference. Maybe it was a new ICP not IPR? And touching the brake and losing all throttle control can be... something I forget off the top of my head. But it is a Thing.

 

Four things commonly go wrong with the IPR:

In order....

1. Debris in the pilot valve:

Using a small screwdriver, gently push in on the end of the pilot valve assembly. You should feel the valve move about 1/8" in and out and return to its seat with a bit of snap.

Should the action of the valve be sticky at any point, use a combination of solvent, screwdriver motion and compressed air to clear any debris that may be trapped in its motion.

2. Debris in the actuator piston area:

Thoroughly clean the actuator body, piston, guide and pin. Lubricate them well with a very thin oil or solvent. Assemble the actuator only, but do not tighten. With the solvent as the lubricant, the piston should move freely.

I.E. if you shake the actuator assembly, you should hear the piston sliding around freely. This will not happen with motor oil as the lubricant.

3. Bad/Damaged external O Rings.

4. Defective Coil: IPR Coil Test OHMS: 10.2 - 10.6

Ford sells a rebuild kit consisting of the O Rings and a replacement solenoid nut. The Solenoid is NOT sold by itself. It comes only with a new Valve Assy.

Prior to considering replacing any part, some additional testing should be done.

SERSOR PID MONITORING:

TOOLS REQUIRED: OBD-II On-Board Diagnostics, Phase 2 Vehicle Media Communications Unit (Scantool), or Android OS Software with Torque-Pro (or other capable software) with Bluetooth OBD-II Connectivity or, Scan Gauge II - X-Gauge, or similar device.

1. Select the parameters indicated from the Scan Tool parameter list and monitor while cranking engine:

1a. Remove the 30Amp Fuse controlling the IDM, FIWS, and FBH so the Engine does not start during cranking.

1b. The maximum necessary cranking tome is 10 - 15 Sec.

1c Record the values (#2a - #2g) listed in "Data List Monitoring Parameter:"

2. Data List Monitoring Parameter:

2a. Vehicle Power (V-PWR) 10.5 VDC Minimum.

2b. RPM 100 - 150 RPM Minimum (0 - CMP Suspect)

2c. Injector Control Pressure (ICP) 500 PSI or 3.4 MPAM Minimum

2d. Injector Control Pressure Voltage (ICPv) Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Spec: 0.20v - 0.30v

2e. Injector Control Pressure Duty Cycle (ICP %) Spec: 10%-12% at idle, engine at 140F or > / NTE 20% while Cranking / 65% is closed (IPR Suspect)

2f. ICP - A minimum of 500 PSI (3.4 mPa) is required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the reservoir, system leakage, injector O-Rings, or faulty IPR could cause pressure loss. You can disconnect it from the wiring harness. The PCM is programed to use a Delta of 700 psig. Driving the vehicle while disconnected is not recommended.

Note: If no RPM signal is received, IPR duty cycle will default to 14%

2g. FUEL PW - Even though a 1 to 6 mS FUEL PW is shown, it’s possible the IDM did not receive the signal due to a CI or FDCS circuit fault or internal IDM failure.

2f. Fuel-Pulse-With (FPW): 1 MS - 6 MS (<1 / >6 IDM Suspect)

2g. *V-PWR - If indicating a low voltage condition, check battery voltage, charging system or power and ground circuits to the PCM.

3. The Following Parameters may be required for identifying loss of power, No Start Hot, Rough Idle, and many more such customers’ complaints. These values should be recorded for comparison and future use in identifying anomalies:

Because the PCM adjusts injector output based on oil temperature information received from the Engine Oil Temperature sensor and turbo boost information received from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor, and the Barometric pressure (BARO) sensor. These corrections are necessary to meet emissions requirements and to optimize power.

Outputs of these sensors are displayed EOT (temperature), MAP (boost pressure), BARO (pressure), and BARO V (volts). MGP shows boost.

** PID / Name / Measurement **

3a. EXBP 10-15psig w/ EBPV closed and not exceed 45psi at WOT Note: EXBP showing low (3-5psi) that barley rises with acceleration indicates bad sensor or plugged tube. Exhaust Back Pressure (PSI).

3b. MAP: Frequency output; 111Hz / 14.7 psi, 130Hz / 20psi, 167Hz / 30psi.

3c. BARO: 5 volts in, @4.6 volts/14.7 psi at sea level, decreasing as altitude increases. (Volts)/100 kPa (14.5 psi).

3d. EBP: 5.0 volts in, 0.8-1.0 volts/14.7 (PSI)

3e. IAT: 5 volts in, 3.897volts@32°F, 3.09@68°F, 1.72@122°F

3f. MAP: Manifold Absolute Pressure (ATM)

3g. MFDES: Mass Fuel Desired (mg)

3h. MFREQ: Mass Fuel Required (mg)

3i. VFDES: Volume Fuel Desired (Cubic mm)

 

Yall are killer good. Thanks for all the help. I too think my next step is a new IPR. I just don't think he put a new one on it at all. (He's a good guy, all they do is ford diesels and I believe it to be an honest mistake on the not replacing the old one they tried to get it running with) I'll have to call him. I have cut out a socket to get this thing off but can't seem to get in there and get a good enough bite to break it loose. I also bought another socket after I removed the coil so I don't have to use the cut out socket. I just can't seem to get a good bit, I.E. my big hand in there to turn the breaker bar. UGH!!!

 

Check and see if he put a new ICP sensor on the drivers side head instead of new IPR, just to rule out him charging you for something he didn't do, and like David pointed out, aftermarket ICP sensors have been known to be goofy when they encounter RF interference, so if he did use an aftermarket one, it could be pointing in that direction instead.

 

No, it was the IPR. Cost 166 dollars. I put a new ICp and he did ne as well. Way I understand it, truck should start with the ICP unplugged. He told me, the way I understand it that If the Computer doesn't see so much pressure that is regulated by the IPR that once I hit the brake pedal and the engine Idled down, it was not seeing the correct Pressure reading for the RPM's it was now reading so it shut it down. This sound correct? Thanks.

 

Is the new ICP OEM or aftermarket?

If the ICP is unplugged the PCM will not see the real hpop pressure, so it will use a default value of something like 750psi. That way the truck will still start and run. You could unplug it and see if the problem goes away.

 

The correct size is 1-1/8" / 29mm. However, most will NOT encapsulate the IPR Shaft and therefore become a PITA to use.

Snap-On, MAC, and Cornwell I know sell the “extra deep” sockets (4” or 5”). But are Expen$ive. Many specialty resellers sell specific Sockets for both the 7.3L and 6.0L. But again, Expen$sive.

A 30mm 1/2 in. Drive - Front Wheel Drive Axle Lock-Nut Socket works better (seriously) than most of the above; encapsulates the IPR Shaft.

And, easy to find at most automotive repair retail store fronts like: Advanced Auto / Auto Zone / O'Reilly’s.

Use with a Flexible Ratchet and you can R&R in about 20 minutes for the experienced Technician and about 40 minutes for the DIY'r who does it occasionally..

1. Remove Oil from HPOP

2. Disconnect the ICP IPR FIWS FHS and WGS Sensors and move the Loom out of the way. Remove the WGS and move out of the way.

3. Remove "Tin Nut" 3/4" Wrench. Slide Solenoid off of IPR.

4. Place a Rag or two in the Valley prior to removing the IPR to catch the little oil remaining.

5. R&R in reverse order and you're done.