Code red on 2002 7.3 Exc!
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
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Here are the readings when cranking These make more sense. Not sure what fuel supply should look like
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I'm not familiar with the phone version of Forscan but I think you need to push Play before you start cranking. Try it again and get cranking numbers. If your ICP and IPR numbers turn out okay, the next worry is your high non-cranking EBP number and why your GPCM is reporting zero current to the glowplugs. Has the GPCM been changed at all?
He's in Canada. PSI doesn't compute. I agree with your observation about ICP though. I also wonder why EBP is reading so high without cranking.
He's in Canada. PSI doesn't compute. I agree with your observation about ICP though. I also wonder why EBP is reading so high without cranking.
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Your IPR should NOT be maxed out, which it is at 65%. I apologize for not knowing what has taken place over the course of this thread, but the IPR reading is a clue as to where you should concentrate your efforts.
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Another clue is your ICP is low at 186 PSI, it should be near 500 PSI in order to start. Again, indicating a high pressure oil problem in my opinion.
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From: GA
i see you did hpop lines. now that your 42 pin is just now back connected and ipr is functioning, you need to just crank her to bleed the air and build icp presure to about 400 and she should light off. Have a charger connected. Sometimes it happens in 1-2 10 second cranks. sometimes it takes more. Your basically starting from scratch on the high pressure oil bleeding @Mod7.3
Im assuming the fuel pump has run enough by now to purge all the air introduced into system by doing the fuel bowl, because i dont think its affected by the 42 pin harness.
Im assuming the fuel pump has run enough by now to purge all the air introduced into system by doing the fuel bowl, because i dont think its affected by the 42 pin harness.
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i see you did hpop lines. now that your 42 pin is just now back connected and ipr is functioning, you need to just crank her to bleed the air and build icp presure to about 400 and she should light off. Have a charger connected. Sometimes it happens in 1-2 10 second cranks. sometimes it takes more.
before I replaced my main wiring harness, I had the old harness connected (all) and it would not start I did fuel bowl and hpop lines and cleaned IPR and oil cooler o rings so lots to get recirculating
nice that engine light has not come on now.
im getting basically very little exhaust, so not sure if that would suggest a fuel issue and if the readings are normal.
a few days ago I did open the fuel bowl and it was full.
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not sure where I could have erred with hpop lines, fuel bowl, etc to have screwed up ability to build oil pressure
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Based on your last few comments, it appears you do in fact need to purge the air out of the HPO system. While the batteries are charging, check the HPOP reservoir and make sure there is oil up to about 1/2" from the fill plug. If there isn't, put some fresh oil in there. Once the batteries are ready to try and start the engine, let us know what you see and hear.
If there is no engine light on, you are getting close and the issue is mechanical in nature and may just be too much air in the system.
Keep at it sir, you will be
in no time!
If there is no engine light on, you are getting close and the issue is mechanical in nature and may just be too much air in the system.
Keep at it sir, you will be
in no time!
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From: GA
while its charging. you could go ahead and do a buzz test in forscan, to not hinder your batteries might be a good idea to unplug your glowplug controller while you have the ignition on performing these tests. Also double check that the solenoid of the ipr is toward the front of the engine, and the spacer then tin nut are on the back of the solenoid facing the cab.
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while its charging. you could go ahead and do a buzz test in forscan, to not hinder your batteries might be a good idea to unplug your glowplug controller while you have the ignition on performing these tests. Also double check that the solenoid of the ipr is toward the front of the engine, and the spacer then tin nut are on the back of the solenoid facing the cab.
