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Hey all, looking for more guidance on some maintenance gone wrong.
I started with Oil Cooler seals and did a bunch of work in the valley with help from many here.
I put everything back together and it would not start. Two codes, P1000 and 0381. Glow plug lights in cab operated normal.
Did some research and found good description of how glow plug electrical works to fix 0381 and no start. Link below.
Changed out the glow plug relay from new harness I did not install yet.
Aaaanndd?!?!? No start, engine light and multiple codes.
I used a new battery I had on drivers side to start, and passenger side battery was low so maybe that’s a part of it? Only changing out relay caused so many codes, or lopsided battery’s? Something significant I’m missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
P1000 just means data recently clears or battery unhooked. no biggie.
for the no start issue.
what maintenance did you do in the valley ?
obviously the no start is related to the work you performed, if you did oil galley plugs or lines then it is going to be oil feed/injector related, if it was fuel bowl or lines then it will be fuel feed/ injector related.
or it could be as simple as you knocked loose or didnt plug in a electrical sendor... such ad the IPR
P1000 just means data recently clears or battery unhooked. no biggie.
for the no start issue.
what maintenance did you do in the valley ?
obviously the no start is related to the work you performed, if you did oil galley plugs or lines then it is going to be oil feed/injector related, if it was fuel bowl or lines then it will be fuel feed/ injector related.
or it could be as simple as you knocked loose or didnt plug in a electrical sendor... such ad the IPR
i did oil cooler seals.
and on top of engine, I did fuel bowl, pedestal and turbo seals, ebpv seals, fuel lines, hpop lines, glow plugs, valve cover harness, and a few other things.
yes had no problem starting before I did the maintenance so either the work I did or reinstall of electrical
and yes I did the IPR as well. Maybe the plug is not seated securely? The sensor was a bit loose when I plugged in
Well replacing HPOP lines means there is air in the system to work out. You may just need to crank on it a couple times with the batteries on a charger between
as noted you have air in both systems and it is going to take some cranking to get started.
be sure to not burn up your starter. if you have a IR temp gun you can check the starter between cranking to know when to give it a cool down. carful if you do it by touch, it can get hot enough to burn you.
While your checking the plug on the IPR check the order in which the components are installed. It should be solenoid, spacer , nut. Wouldn't be the first time someone installed the spacer and solenoid in the wrong order.
While your checking the plug on the IPR check the order in which the components are installed. It should be solenoid, spacer , nut. Wouldn't be the first time someone installed the spacer and solenoid in the wrong order.
and on top of engine, I did fuel bowl, pedestal and turbo seals, ebpv seals, fuel lines, hpop lines, glow plugs, valve cover harness, and a few other things.
yes had no problem starting before I did the maintenance so either the work I did or reinstall of electrical
and yes I did the IPR as well. Maybe the plug is not seated securely? The sensor was a bit loose when I plugged in
After snugging up the tin nut on the ipr solenoid/plug it might feel loose because it can turn slightly from side to side as it's only held in place by the tin nut. Also, check that the rubber seal that sits inside the ipr plug connector is in there, if not this too will make the plug feel loose. I know you mentioned that you had done quite a bit of work in the valley, check for the seals that go inside the component plugs three as well. I forget and loose these plug/connector seals all the time.
After snugging up the tin nut on the ipr solenoid/plug it might feel loose because it can turn slightly from side to side as it's only held in place by the tin nut. Also, check that the rubber seal that sits inside the ipr plug connector is in there, if not this too will make the plug feel loose. I know you mentioned that you had done quite a bit of work in the valley, check for the seals that go inside the component plugs three as well. I forget and loose these plug/connector seals all the time.
ya the ipr solenoid spins I will check those rubber seals that help seat the plugs properly. If those are missing they can cause a code?
Cranking it over now. How much cranking can I expect to do after Hpop lines and fuel bowl? Will the low pressure codes disappear once enough pressure is built? Is the IPR code 1280 common after replacing hpop lines, fuel bowl etc. Would a bad IPR prevent a start?
Well crap. Tried to start again and no go. From a few you tube sources it looks like it takes 3 or 4 start times of about 15 seconds each to get the air out of system after replacing hpop lines. I did fuel bowl as wel so might take longer but think I gave it a good run.
I will try pulling the ICP and start to see if that could be it. Then maybe put back on my old GPR just to see. Then maybe take out IPR and make sure insides are ok (already removed solenoid and put back). The maybe install the new main harness. (This seems like good run down of glow plug issue
Seems like I’m getting the clicking and usual pre start sounds
Strange that with my original GPR, I only got two codes when trying to start it, p1000 and 0381 After I put the new GPR in I got a bunch of codes. I did mess with the harness a bit but hard to imagine I did that much.
With the key on, I was not getting power from the big bolt on the GPR (closest to the fuel bowl). And still getting 0603 and 0683 re glow plugs.
I was pretty diligent with each job so don’t think I screwed up IPR insides. (IPR shouldn’t cause a no start anyways). Got a bit impatient near the end and maybe missed something.
take another crack at it tomorrow. Thanks again for advice. Will continue to troubleshoot
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