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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 12:11 PM
  #136  
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i thought i had read it wouldn't crank before you took it apart earlier, my bad.

the 65% ipr to me is a red flag, means its not opening. Im not sure what to tell you to do at this point, i dont want to spend your $. the video i posted earlier in this thread is what you would be seeing smoke wise. here is another after i did essentially the same as you having had the fuel and oil systems all apart, this was the 2nd or 3rd crank, about 40* out with glowplug relay disconnected.

I suspect the ipr stuck

 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 01:49 PM
  #137  
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Mod7.3, please try to slow down a bit and take note of some of the steps take and the areas we are telling you to look at. We can get the Ex back on the road, but need solid and verified results and information from you first. We understand your frustration and the need to get the Ex back on the road, so please help us help you!

We also understand you are somewhat new to this, and some of the steps we are telling you to take you may not be aware of or know how to accomplish them. That is fine! We have all been there before as we were not born knowing how to work on or fix the 7.3L...

Now, you seem to be focusing on fuel, did you perform the steps I mentioned in an earlier post and pasted below where I quoted myself?

Originally Posted by Sous

Do you hear the fuel pump come on when you turn the key to on? Open the drain valve on the back of the fuel bowl after turning the key to on and see if fuel comes spraying out.

Let us know what you see and find...
The Forscan results are showing a high pressure oil problem. You said you unplugged the ICP and the truck did not start. Is it possible for you to post a picture of the ICP that you unplugged? Or, at the very least identify that the ICP in the image below is the very same ICP you unplugged?



Are you sure the IPR connector and wires toward the main harness are in good shape and firmly connected? Do you have a known good IPR you can use for a test? From a friend or anything?

It is unlikely that the HPOP failed, but it may have. We can look into how to dead head and test the pump if we need to, but rarely is the HPOP the fault of seeing 65% IPR when attempting to start.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 05:35 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Sous
Mod7.3, please try to slow down a bit and take note of some of the steps take and the areas we are telling you to look at. We can get the Ex back on the road, but need solid and verified results and information from you first. We understand your frustration and the need to get the Ex back on the road, so please help us help you!

We also understand you are somewhat new to this, and some of the steps we are telling you to take you may not be aware of or know how to accomplish them. That is fine! We have all been there before as we were not born knowing how to work on or fix the 7.3L...

Now, you seem to be focusing on fuel, did you perform the steps I mentioned in an earlier post and pasted below where I quoted myself?



The Forscan results are showing a high pressure oil problem. You said you unplugged the ICP and the truck did not start. Is it possible for you to post a picture of the ICP that you unplugged? Or, at the very least identify that the ICP in the image below is the very same ICP you unplugged?



Are you sure the IPR connector and wires toward the main harness are in good shape and firmly connected? Do you have a known good IPR you can use for a test? From a friend or anything?

It is unlikely that the HPOP failed, but it may have. We can look into how to dead head and test the pump if we need to, but rarely is the HPOP the fault of seeing 65% IPR when attempting to start.
fair enough. I’ve been proceeding partly on hunches because it started with no issues before my maintenance. Looking for quick fix.

ipr reading suggests IPR and that’s first hurdle to clear before moving on.

I changed seals and cleaned it at my maintenance step then checked it again a few days ago (seemed ok, parts moving, piston moving freely).....pics in thread above. Based on my ohm test above I’m guessing it’s not the solenoid, (called “coil” above?).

ive rush ordered an ipr from riff raff so will replace the whole thing, hopefully early next week.

Regarding pic and labels above.. Icp correct. I don’t have a GPR as in pic. I have the silver finned that allows for more detailed glow plug info (required for ex being people hauler instead of truck?).




I replaced the main engine wiring harness so all connections and plugs should be fine. ipr on order.

I mention fuel because it seems like I’ve been getting no smoke at all Just spitballing. I clearly know just enough to be dangerous.

i included video below of attempted starts. The first one was with icp plug pulled. Icp up to 2300 and IPR to 32



 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 05:46 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by KubotaOrange76
i thought i had read it wouldn't crank before you took it apart earlier, my bad.

the 65% ipr to me is a red flag, means its not opening. Im not sure what to tell you to do at this point, i dont want to spend your $. the video i posted earlier in this thread is what you would be seeing smoke wise. here is another after i did essentially the same as you having had the fuel and oil systems all apart, this was the 2nd or 3rd crank, about 40* out with glowplug relay disconnected.

I suspect the ipr stuck

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uihAnvKIeLU
ya. Makes sense unless something else could be causing the low IPR reading


that’s a quick start and music to my ears!!!
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 07:38 PM
  #140  
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This is forscan reading with icp pulled. Ipr went to 32.42 and icp to 2300.

I then plugged back in icp and IPR back to 64 and icp both were about 180-190. Not sure how to reset forscan to record again so don’t have a pic of second try. Wondering why they have two gauges often? Two icp gauges?

not sure if this sheds any light.

a couple vids below of cranking and no start.

A bit hard to see in daylight under door but little to no exhaust.









 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 08:49 PM
  #141  
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Just a quick video of my 7.3 and walk thru the maintenance I did. The IPR (or IRP...wtf was I saying) is the focal point but I did pull the icp and attempt a start which showed 2300psi on the icp and 32 on the IPR (still twice as high as should be). But maybe these numbers will help reveal something to those who understand
them


I did a bunch of research and “no start no smoke” mentioned many times, and many times people suspected fuel issue because no smoke, and not sure I found any examples where it was actually a fuel issue.

Just of note, a few days ago I opened the top of fuel bowl and it was full, whereas most people who opened it found 1/4 to 1/2 full, but never full.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 10:42 PM
  #142  
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Do you have fuel in the fuel bowl?

Do you hear the pump turn on for ~20 seconds when turning the ignition from off to on and letting it sit there?

What led you to replace the wiring harness?

What exactly did you do in the way of "maintenance" that led to the truck not starting since it was running prior to the "maintenance"?

Have you tried to plug in the block heater for several hours or overnight before attempting to start it?

The numbers look better with the ICP unplugged, but clearly there is a problem because the truck is still not starting.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 10:53 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by Sous
Do you have fuel in the fuel bowl?

Do you hear the pump turn on for ~20 seconds when turning the ignition from off to on and letting it sit there?


i believe so but how do I confirm. I have pre start on video above.


What led you to replace the wiring harness?


it was greased up and brittle in areas While I was there


What exactly did you do in the way of "maintenance" that led to the truck not starting since it was running prior to the "maintenance"?


Oil cooler seals. Glow plugs. Valve cover harness. Main engine wire harness. Rebuild fuel bowl and spring/seals, fuel lines and high flow fittings, remove turbo and pedestal and replace o rings, ebpv rebuild/seals, hpop lines, drained coolant and replaced with distilled water to flush. New belt. I think that’s about it.


Have you tried to plug in the block heater for several hours or overnight before attempting to start it?


it’s in the garage so temp not an issue.


The numbers look better with the ICP unplugged, but clearly there is a problem because the truck is still not starting.
.

yes, still an issue. Hard to wrap my head around figuring what I did wrong as opposed to just running through the diagnostics.

you can hear it cranking in videos above.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 11:05 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by Mod7.3
i believe so but how do I confirm. I have pre start on video above.
Turn the ignition to on and immediately get under the Ex just below the driver seat on the frame. There is a silver cylinder pump about 8 inches long. That should be running and you should hear it and be able to feel the pump moving fluid through it for about 20 seconds.

Originally Posted by Mod7.3
it’s in the garage so temp not an issue.
Is the garage heated/climate controlled? Try plugging it in anyway?

I do not know how to test a GPCM, but you could try and research that as you wait for the IPR to show up in the mail.

Also, during your buzz test, did I only hear 7 injectors or am I just tired from the day?

 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 11:12 PM
  #145  
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Asking again in it's own post to ensure this is paid attention as it is important.

Do you have fuel in the fuel bowl?

There is a little yellow lever on the back of the fuel bowl that you probably changed the o-rings on when rebuilding the bowl recently. Turn that from pointing toward the passenger fender toward the firewall and fuel should come out.

Also, check the standpipe in the middle middle of the fuel bowl under the filter. It is spring loaded and there are slots that have a small chance to be misaligned and will restrict the flow of fuel to the engine.

Just trying to get you things to check that are free and easy to do while waiting for the IPR.



 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 11:33 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by Sous
Asking again in it's own post to ensure this is paid attention as it is important.

Do you have fuel in the fuel bowl?

There is a little yellow lever on the back of the fuel bowl that you probably changed the o-rings on when rebuilding the bowl recently. Turn that from pointing toward the passenger fender toward the firewall and fuel should come out.

Also, check the standpipe in the middle middle of the fuel bowl under the filter. It is spring loaded and there are slots that have a small chance to be misaligned and will restrict the flow of fuel to the engine.

Just trying to get you things to check that are free and easy to do while waiting for the IPR.
ok. Yes fuel bowl was full right to the rim when I checked it. Not sure if that means it could be over full or fuel is not getting out?

yes changed o rings on yellow drain plug. Closed is towards the passenger side fender I believe. Turning the valve towards the cab will open it. I will extend the fuel drain Tube, since it’s hard to line up the bucket making mess in garage floor.

I will check the middle standpipe . As I recall it is a check against running the engine without a fuel filter. When I opened it last, the bowl was full, the heater seemed connected well and the fuse (30 I think) was good. But I did not check the standpipe
thanks.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 11:40 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by Mod7.3
ok. Yes fuel bowl was full right to the rim when I checked it. Not sure if that means it could be over full or fuel is not getting out?
Good to hear the fuel bowl was full. It cannot overfill itself as there is a return line that goes to the tank. That is the one that runs out the right side of the bowl through the fuel pressure regulator, which probably serviced during the rebuild.

Originally Posted by Mod7.3
yes changed o rings on yellow drain plug. Closed is towards the passenger side fender I believe. Turning the valve towards the cab will open it. I will extend the fuel drain Tube, since it’s hard to line up the bucket making mess in garage floor.
Yes, closed is toward the passenger fender. That is the direction it should be when attempting to start the truck. When you evacuate the fuel out of the bowl, check to ensure the fuel pump is running by getting under the driver seat and putting your hand on the pump. It should be vibrating as it pushes fuel to the bowl. It will only run for about 20 seconds unless the engine is started.

Originally Posted by Mod7.3
I will check the middle standpipe . As I recall it is a check against running the engine without a fuel filter. When I opened it last, the bowl was full, the heater seemed connected well and the fuse (30 I think) was good. But I did not check the standpipe
thanks.
Yes, the standpipe is a safety catch for the fuel filter, you are right.

WTS/glow plug light is on when turning the ignition from off to on correct?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 12:17 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by Sous
Good to hear the fuel bowl was full. It cannot overfill itself as there is a return line that goes to the tank. That is the one that runs out the right side of the bowl through the fuel pressure regulator, which probably serviced during the rebuild.


Yes, closed is toward the passenger fender. That is the direction it should be when attempting to start the truck. When you evacuate the fuel out of the bowl, check to ensure the fuel pump is running by getting under the driver seat and putting your hand on the pump. It should be vibrating as it pushes fuel to the bowl. It will only run for about 20 seconds unless the engine is started.



Yes, the standpipe is a safety catch for the fuel filter, you are right.

WTS/glow plug light is on when turning the ignition from off to on correct?
yes wts goes on which should rule out pcm and And I’m getting rpm so that should rule our cps (cam pressure sensor)

I will check the fuel pump
 
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 07:14 AM
  #149  
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This is a screenshot of my numbers on my truck. This was a “crank but no start” I was having. The engine was cranking for ~5 seconds when this was taken.
i use Torquepro as a monitor so it looks a bit different than your Forscan.
The numbers look similar to yours with your ICP unplugged.
If you unplugged the ICP sensor (pcm then defaults to number) and you got the numbers you say 2300 psi ICP and 32% IPR. I would think the truck would start with those two HPO numbers?

untill the HPO issue is ruled out something else comes to mind I haven’t seen mentioned is PATS. Being an EX is your PATS functioning normally? I have no experience with PATS but have read treads here on FTE of issues.
 

Last edited by slowsure; Mar 7, 2020 at 07:21 AM. Reason: Linked picture didn’t work
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 08:48 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by slowsure



This is a screenshot of my numbers on my truck. This was a “crank but no start” I was having. The engine was cranking for ~5 seconds when this was taken.
i use Torquepro as a monitor so it looks a bit different than your Forscan.
The numbers look similar to yours with your ICP unplugged.
If you unplugged the ICP sensor (pcm then defaults to number) and you got the numbers you say 2300 psi ICP and 32% IPR. I would think the truck would start with those two HPO numbers?

untill the HPO issue is ruled out something else comes to mind I haven’t seen mentioned is PATS. Being an EX is your PATS functioning normally? I have no experience with PATS but have read treads here on FTE of issues.
its a good thought as I’ve had that “no start” issue before. It comes with a blinking theft light and I have not had that now. But every time I reconnect my battery’s after I recharge, the alarm (pats I assume) has gone off for a minute or two (which is normal I believe). I don’t think it’s contributing but will keep an eye on it I do have a (now) inactive remote start that I should remove that could be a draw on my battery’s and that issue where the radio and windows are delayed going on, usually at start up
 
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