Console swap
ok so with the rear plug my inverter works and my usb plugs in the rear work, the only items missing are the 2 12volt power points and my lighting stuff but that’s only if you have a console out of a platinum.
im going to pull the console out now and use the power for the now extra power point to power those up and I may ditch the lighting package if it’s a nightmare.
update****
The insane Electrial engineer did in fact get the bus line control wire from the front plug and the power from the rear for the lighting control, the rear harness in my truck does not have the required wire and I don’t have it in me to rear apart the dash to find the bus wire so at this time I’m ditching the lighting package, if it bugs me enough I’ll pull it apart again.
as far as the power points, I used the extra power I had from the lower power point and spliced into the front plug and they now work. So all things considered I did ok
Why yes, yes it is! Is that your truck? Any details you can share?
I know of one company, a rim repair company of all places, that offers a conversion kit. It's wiring and instructions for ~$500. A little rich for me when you need another $300+ in parts (shifter and cable...plus the console insert if you don't already have it). BoostedGreyGoose was working on a conversion too, so I am anxiously waiting for it.
https://www.facebook.com/rimsplusrimrepair/
I know of one company, a rim repair company of all places, that offers a conversion kit. It's wiring and instructions for ~$500. A little rich for me when you need another $300+ in parts (shifter and cable...plus the console insert if you don't already have it). BoostedGreyGoose was working on a conversion too, so I am anxiously waiting for it.
https://www.facebook.com/rimsplusrimrepair/
I know your wanting to know who this guy is and how to get ahold of him....well if I tell you then everyone will want to do the conversion and it will make mine less impressive.....just kidding...sort of. The guy is Thomas Leger at Platinum Performance https://platinumperformance.io/ . Tell him John Gill sent you. There is lots more to the story but I need to get out of the office and head home. Yes, I know I didn't say how much that is something you can talk to Thomas about. I will say that at first I thought it was kind of high but after I completed it I think it's a fair price. He is a real good guy and very helpful and knowledgeable about the conversion.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
We have three 2020 SD trucks getting three Ebay Consoles. Every console is from a different year and model. Will be interesting.
jjw
ND
Fortunately, doing well. Hope all is good in your neck of the woods.
Looks like you need PIN 2 of the floor connector (C3133) and PIN 10 of the front connector (C215). See attached PDF.
Dorman makes a package of four bolts you'll need for securing the console to the floor bracket. Advanced Auto has them.
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-16750-980-225.aspx
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...chTerm=m6x25mm
check it out!
im going to pull the console out now and use the power for the now extra power point to power those up and I may ditch the lighting package if it’s a nightmare.
update****
The insane Electrial engineer did in fact get the bus line control wire from the front plug and the power from the rear for the lighting control, the rear harness in my truck does not have the required wire and I don’t have it in me to rear apart the dash to find the bus wire so at this time I’m ditching the lighting package, if it bugs me enough I’ll pull it apart again.
as far as the power points, I used the extra power I had from the lower power point and spliced into the front plug and they now work. So all things considered I did ok
When plugging the large floor harness under the center seat that is removed ....it will plug into every year console. But if the console does NOT have a 110v plug on the back of the console being installed, you will very likely find 110V will be fed to the 12V or USB plugs in the back of the console. This will disable the Factory inverter and all 110V in the truck unless you modify the harness to send 12V to these plugs and not 110. If your console has a 110V plug on back, it woudl work fine. The 12V or USB have 50:50 chance of work.
One the front of the console we did the following to get the SYNC to work as well as the charging USB next to it.....
When the dash is prepped for the console, you will have unplugged the 12V power point (we did not reused this but it could be an easy 12V power supply if needed). You will also have the SYNC unplugged (both a flat power connector and the USB cable connected). We popped out the 2020 USB face plate as it moved to the standard USB A and the newer USB C connectors. This face plate plugs directly into the console opening after you pop out the older version. The cables are not long enough without cutting the wire supports that keep the lengths to match the non-console setup. For the USB cable, there will be TWO cable supports to remove. one is low near the AM/FM radio module. The other is up high near the top of the dash. With these disconnected the USB will have lots of extra length. The flat power connector has one support down low that will give it just enough to reach. To make these easier to plug in....tie a short piece of wire/cord to these two connectors and route through the opening where the SYNC face plate plugs in. As you push the console into place keep pulling this wire/cord to pull the connectors closer to the opening when the console is fully forward, the factory wires will just protrude through the opening with enough room to plug into the face plate. If you "bust the bottom keeper on the face plate so only the top keeper functions...when you snap it into place (after the wires are plugged in) if you ever have to remove the console, will will NOT have enough room to reach your hand around to unplug these but you CAN pull all radios so you can get your hand in from the top with a screw driver to push the release on the face plate to get the wires removed....tell me how I know.
If you with you can pop the 12v power point face plate and drill the same opening in the lower right corner in the same opening as the SYNC connectors to install it. The factory cable will have enough room to reach.
We did not find an easy way to get the ambient light to work so we just abandoned that.
Hope that helps anyone.
jjw
ND
I need the HB1 bolts, How do I find their part number?









