Wrong thread? My rockers are rust free, and stellar, unless you were looking at the black parts X I bought, it's loaded with cancer. The white one, this thread was created for, has no rust.

 

My X has been on vacation in the garage since New Years, but obviously getting molested here and there. the battery has been on a maintainer, and I fire it up here and there. Recently I turned the key on and noticed that the vacuum pump took longer than usual to pull down the reservoir. I fully expect the system to be at atmospheric pressure as long as it's been sitting, but just didn't seem right. I know I have never replaced the pump, and when I tested the reservoir, the check valve in the VAC side that connects to the pump was not fully holding back the vacuum. I replaced both the reservoir, and pump. The pump was readily available, but the reservoir was a bear to find. There is a stop sale on that part number, and the few dealers that have them will not turn loose of them to other dealers, or out of state customers. I finally found one in TX and they had no problem turning loose of it. It's possible it's headed for obsolescence.

As of today I'm done with the coolant filter circus. I'm on my 3rd or 4th one since I added the international water pump in 2016 or 2017. The filter is a ***** to get off, and if not changed after what ever period, the media inside will break down and cause issues. I posted pics of my first filter once I cut it open, there was a little bit of sand, but there can't be anything left to filter sand wise now. My neighbor works for a full metal fabrication shop, and I gave him a cut off filter base and asked him to make me a dummy plug. So milled, turned, drilled, tapped, channeled for seal, and of billet aluminum the filter mess is done.

 

Finally installed the 4 CAC Mishimoto boots this weekend..

 

The bike rack is in, and is a prefect fit. 1up brand single carrier, Super Duty carrier.
I ordered it as a single carrier, up to 3 more carrier racks can be added for a total of 4 bikes @ up to 100 Lbs per bike, fat tire and E bike compatible..

 

More and more OE parts are NLA, I decided to replace the ESOF pulse solenoid yesterday. I don't think I've replaced it before.

 

Busy as usual, home for the holiday to catch up a bit. I finally motivated myself to drop the headliner one last time. This was done to seal the rear A/C spider duct, and replace the future leaker rear windshield sprayer check valve. I once thought the check valves were NLA, but after searching, I ordered from my dealer, they come in a pack of 2. When I pulled the headliner in the V10 I briefly owned, the spider duct was separating from the headliner and leaking air, it made a huge improvement in air flow after I sealed it. Mine looked pretty good, but I liberally sealed it anyway with Lexel sealer in the caulk tube. Amazingly I was able to remove the original check valve without it breaking, I did find that the rubber hose going through the body develops a kink to the point where it splits the hose due to the forced bend from the gate being closed. I replaced that short section with a silicone hose. Also replaced both ESOF relays.


























Original valve, hose, and grommet


Spare parts hose with broken valve, grommet, and split from kink.






Original hose and check valve removed for dis-assembly, with kink.



Through body hose with valve and coupler removed from stiff plastic feeder tube.



Original parts separated.




Flow indicator arrows.



New through body silicone hose, spare parts through body grommet, new check valve, spare coupling rubber hose. Left.



New parts assembled, Left. Original valve, coupler, through body hose, and grommet, Right.













Assembled, rigid plastic hose re-fastened to body structure.




Ceiling almost back together.

 

I can never get over how clean your X is and how well you've maintained it. Well done!

Quick question as well. Do I remember seeing you swap out your brake master cylinder/booster at some point? I've been driving the X instead of the Jeep recently because I've been towing crap around for work and recently my better half had her car go to the shop. I've noticed that on some occasions the brake pedal feels like it bounces back when I press down on it. It's a weird feeling. Additionally, it's not holding pressure overnight most nights. I get in to go to work, and because I have a manual trans now, I have to hold the brake on my driveway. It'll roll backwards until the engine fires, which is quickly, but does it nonetheless. Probably will change it out soon and I think you're the only one I've seen with a writeup on it (unless I'm mistaken).

 

I did, several posts up, I replaced most everything brakes, along with power steering pump and hoses.
Page #7 Post 255...

 

I decided to replace the other under hood relays next to the ESOF ones, I believe these are for trailer turn signal, and trailer charging power. Replaced the washer reservoir pump, and the coolant thermostat to see if it resolves a minor issue with temp fluctuation. The washer inlet screen was pretty gummed up with sludge, I cleaned the reservoir and the pump came with a new screen. I need to locate a new reservoir cap. For the coolant I drained, say 3-4 gallons, I just replaced with new diluted, and the additive.

 

A couple of add ons this weekend, The larger hose going from the degas tank to the lower radiator I will replace nest time I service coolant.

 

Love the detail work!

 

Swapped out the transmission cooler today that I replaced maybe 4 years ago, going to the 26 row cooler from the 31 row cooler. I spoke to Brian at BTS as he will be replacing the transmission soon. The 26 row is the preferred cooler that he uses. Both coolers are OE Ford..

 

That looks similar to the Mishimoto that I had installed. Any reason one would be preferred over the other?

 

Not sure, Mark had commented recently on another thread that the 26 row has a design that gives the same cooling efficiency as the 31 row. I'm also chasing slight coolant temp fluctuations ever since I installed the larger cooler.

 

I’d be curious to understand how an efficient trans cooler would contribute to temperature variations.
keep us posted if it makes a difference.