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I know you reused the 07 brake lines but do you know if you could reuse the front flex lines from a leaf sprung truck? My newer lines were trashed and my flex lines on my truck currently are fairly new, I’d hate to have to buy new again
The mounting point on the calipers is completely different in shape. The old hoses would have to be re-bent down at the caliper end to work, and I did not find there to be enough slack in the old hoses to pull that off. I made a go of recycling my Russell stainless lines from the front of the old setup, but it was quickly apparent it was not going to work out.
I have been looking in to using polyurethane coil spring isolators but while the energy suspension ones fit the coil spring perfectly they don't fit the spring cup. The ID is about an inch to big. I talked to their engineer and he stated that after the weight is applied they will expand and fit tightly... I'm calling bs on that as I thought the whole point was that these don't deflect. Am I wrong? Prothane has a set that I believe fit both the spring and the cup but they add 2.5" height. Does anyone know if these can be cut or milled as I don't want to add height? Anyone know of other options?
Another question... ford makes a thin isolator for the lower coil spring mount for 2wd models. Does anyone know of a lower thin isolator for 4x4's? The 2wd part #E8TZ-5414-B
David, I don't know of any other options for the isolators that don't provide a lift of some sort. I am familiar with lower spring isolators/blocks as an option to lift the front end a bit, but those are not from Ford. RockAuto has a bit of a selection if you haven't looked there yet.
Nic thanks for the heads up then, I bought my set from PMF and they’re supposed to be good for up to 4” of length. Was really hoping to avoid having to buy another set.
David, I don't know of any other options for the isolators that don't provide a lift of some sort. I am familiar with lower spring isolators/blocks as an option to lift the front end a bit, but those are not from Ford. RockAuto has a bit of a selection if you haven't looked there yet.
Thanks Mike. Those energy suspension that they sell are the ones that don't fit our cups. The ID is 1" bigger than the cone that keeps the spring located in the spring bucket. I don't think that will be good for it to be able to move and I surely don't believe that it will expand under compression and become tight. I may just stick with OEM rubber. The bottom pads are thin and just to prevent metal on metal squeaks although I've not had any luck finding them for a 4x4.
And so mine begins! So much thanks to Mike!
Won't bore you with the rear install details other than a pic and to say the only thing I did differently was using the rear flange of the donor driveshaft on the Ex driveshaft and when I rebuilt the parking brake I used the older lever style so I could reuse existing cables.
I found that my PMF radius arm brackets hit the transmission crossmember ever so slightly. I took a grinder to it and removed about 3/16" and then touched it up with some good paint.
I decided to make some spacers for the radius arm brackets out of some stainless 1/4" x 2-1/2" flat stock. Put in some reliefs for the welds and bent to match the contour then drilled matching holes.
I found that my PMF radius arm brackets hit the transmission crossmember ever so slightly. I took a grinder to it and removed about 3/16" and then touched it up with some good paint.
Thanks again for the tip on the PMF brackets and the tranny crossmember. Rear is looking good!
Front axle came out quick as an assembly. Now cleaning up the frame rails and the engine cross member. Going to move the brake lines to the front of the buckets. Planning to reuse the factory brackets by drilling a hole for the tab and one for the bolt. Where the brake hose mounts will have to be flattened out for my KLM Performance stainless hoses to be able to be locked in place. Pics to follow.
Thanks again for the tip on the PMF brackets and the tranny crossmember. Rear is looking good!
Glad I could help a little!
The other things I did on the rear was cut off the shock bracket tab from the axle, rotate around to match the other and welded it in place. Worked perfectly. I also had both front and rear axles sand blasted and line-x'd which required some serious masking but should last.
Pics as promised... Cleaned and painted Brake bracket moved. Had to flatten out the point where the line goes through and then had to use a step bit so the hose end would go through. Also used a crescent wrench to twist the bracket so the hose would clear the spring bucket
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
