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Okay, so I got my new Holley throttle spring bracket, hopefully it resolves my hanging idle issue. Next picture is my gas line coming off of the Holley carb next to the much more narrower gas line coming from the fuel pump. Should I replace the wider fuel line coming off the carb with the same diameter fuel line coming from fuel pump? Should I put a fuel regulator in the line also?
The line coming from the pump looks too small to me if anything. And unless your line pressure at the carb is too high, you shouldn't need a regulator
Okay so I will look into replacing the entire fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb with something like 3/8 gas hose instead of any hard line at all. I just thought a fuel regulator would insure that I don't have too high fuel pressure psi where as right now I have no idea what my fuel pressure is.
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Okay so I will look into replacing the entire fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb with something like 3/8 gas hose instead of any hard line at all. I just thought a fuel regulator would insure that I don't have too high fuel pressure psi where as right now I have no idea what my fuel pressure is.
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While I've done the same before, it would be safer to use steel line for this with a short hose to connect it to the carb.
I got my Holley throttle spring bracket hooked up and adjusted and also new 5/16 fuel line from fuel pump to carburetor. I will try to fire the truck up Saturday and do some more tuning to see if I can eliminate the hesitation issue finally.
A happy update, the truck ran very good and strong tonight. I'm pretty sure the NGK spark plugs is what made the difference. After our first run around the neighborhood my neighbor wanted to check the float bowls and the back one was a little too low and the front one was a bit to high, after making the corrections it ran very impressive. It has been a long time coming but now I finally have a great running truck with headers and dual exhaust. I never imagined putting headers on my truck would have caused so much havoc. I also wanted to say the Holley throttle spring bracket 20-282 was a great addition to my truck, no more hanging throttle.
School me on idol mixture screws. I got my truck running good but was curious about my idol mixture screw setting, turns out my neighbor only turned them out a half turn and Holley recommends they be turned out one and a half turns. Should I bother or just leave them alone? I have a happy steady 20.5 vacuum reading as is. The timing is set at 12 BTDC.
I was out driving today and noticed the hesitation in light throttle again but really only in 2nd and 3rd gear. Here's my question, I have a solid 20 in. reading with the vacuum gauge and a 6.5 power valve, should I try a 9.5 power valve?
I was out driving today and noticed the hesitation in light throttle again but really only in 2nd and 3rd gear. Here's my question, I have a solid 20 in. reading with the vacuum gauge and a 6.5 power valve, should I try a 9.5 power valve?
Have you adjusted all the slack out of the accelerator pump linkage ? What's the timing set at ?
School me on idol mixture screws. I got my truck running good but was curious about my idol mixture screw setting, turns out my neighbor only turned them out a half turn and Holley recommends they be turned out one and a half turns. Should I bother or just leave them alone? I have a happy steady 20.5 vacuum reading as is. The timing is set at 12 BTDC.
1.5 turns out is always the basic bench setting just to get it in the ballpark, so engine will start when carb is installed, etc. It's a start point not the end point. Each engine and carburetor combination is slightly different and the idle mixture screws are used to trim out the final mixture. Can use your vacuum gauge for setting the mixture. 1/2 turn out may well be optimal. A slightly rich mixture is preferred but probably not 1.5 turns out. Plugs will load up and idle quality suffers, and since much driving is done just off idle, it can contribute to hesitation and bogs. Just about a 1/4 turn out or so from the lean drop is where you want to be, but use your ears. Goose the throttle to clear out the carb in between adjustments. Both screws should be adjusted the same amount.
For power valve selection your vacuum gauge is also useful. What's important with the power valve is that it isn't open just cruising down the highway steady under light load. Measure manifold vacuum at say 60 mph in high gear and level ground, light grade, hills and such and get an idea of what kind of manifold vacuum is pulled. If you want to dial it in close some say to select a power valve about 2" below the steady level ground vacuum. The shop manual though will list what is the correct # for your engine/carb. This changes with altitude, if you live in Denver the valve drops by one number compared to flatlanders and drops another number above 10,000 feet. The stock number should work well.
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