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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 12:48 AM
  #106  
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I have read many, many times that people think bigger is better so they put BIG Holleys on small engines! One of the most common mistakes in hot rodding. I believe for a stock 302 truck 350CFM is plenty, probably closer to 300 or less. Depends on rpm max.
600 cfm is for bigger cams, crank, headers, etc , high performance engines with steady high rpm capacity. There is a formula like RPM, CI, Volumetric Efficiency
CFM = RPM x CI x VE / 3456. VE for stock engine is roughly 70%
Anyone know max rpm for my 302 w/headers ?
 

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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 06:53 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by RTT
I have read many, many times that people think bigger is better so they put BIG Holleys on small engines! One of the most common mistakes in hot rodding. I believe for a stock 302 truck 350CFM is plenty, probably closer to 300 or less. Depends on rpm max.
600 cfm is for bigger cams, crank, headers, etc , high performance engines with steady high rpm capacity. There is a formula like RPM, CI, Volumetric Efficiency
CFM = RPM x CI x VE / 3456. VE for stock engine is roughly 70%
Anyone know max rpm for my 302 w/headers ?
Not enough info to make a guess. The cfm rating for a carb is just a rating. 2 bbls are rated at 3"HG drop, 4 bbls are rted at 1.5"hg drop. So you can't equate one to another. What any engine pulls at WOT is what it pulls. There's no way to know 100% unless it's measured with the engine running on a dyno. Just because a carb is rated at say 350 cfm, doesn't mean that's what it'll flow sitting on top of an engine. Put it on a bigger engine (than a 302) and it'll probably flow more cfms. The center 250 cfm carb on my 331 flows around 365 cfms before the secondary carbs start to open. Then it flows less as those carbs open up further.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 08:24 AM
  #108  
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Believe it or not, too big of a carburetor will run LEAN under certain conditions. The air flow or velocity is too low because of a mismatch in the venturi. The intake plenum and carb work together as a tuned circuit. Figure out what you want to do, what the intended use is, and where you do most of your driving. How often do you drive above 5k RPM? The most important adjustment we can make to our carbureted engines is choose the correct size carburetor to begin with. With careful selection and tuning you can have good performance and very reasonable economy. Keep in mind modern gasoline does not "color" on the plugs or tailpipe the way leaded gasoline did. If plugs look like they are running "rich" today, it is off the chart and probably diluting the oil.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 07:31 PM
  #109  
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Thanks again for the interest and help I have received in this thread. As for the Holley 600 cfm 4 barrel carburetor it was gifted to me from my motor head neighbor. So it is big for my engine but we have been having fun trying to get it to run as good as we possibly can. As I mentioned earlier I did just install Hooker headers and 2.25 dual exhaust with Thrush mufflers.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 07:37 PM
  #110  
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 08:33 PM
  #111  
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Lookin Mitty fine!!
 
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 08:08 PM
  #112  
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From: COSMOS
I replied because I was shocked that after 7,8,or more pages of discussion trying to lean the fuel system from cruddy spark plugs no one mentioned that 600 CFM was too big of a carb! I had to reply.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 08:13 PM
  #113  
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You already did yesterday
 
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 07:45 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by BeauF0RD
Friday report, So I got my new parts, a secondary diaphragm, a spring kit and a quick top. When we took the carburetor apart we discovered the diaphragm that was in the carburetor was good but replaced it any how since I already bought the new one. I love the new quick top, it makes changing out springs a breeze. My carburetor had the heaviest spring in it, black, and that was the problem why the secondaries were not kicking in. After running and changing numerous springs we ended up with the long yellow spring that gave us a good smooth power surge. I believe the carburetor is finally as good as we can make it with what we have available. I will drive it as is until I can afford to get true dual exhaust with headers and that may be a few months down the road. Thanks again for everybody's help and a happy ending.
I'm back and figured I would post an older post from 10-20-2017 when times were happier and also as proof that this 600 cfm carb did and can again run good on my truck. Back to my problem, as I said I recently put headers on my truck, changed spark plugs, changed the accelerator pump arm, changed the base gasket to my carb to a thicker 5/16 gasket to protect from potential heat soak from the new headers all at the same time. As I have already stated I now have an off idle hesitation. I just changed my #31 squirter nozzle to a #35 in hopes that it would resolve my hesitation, it didn't. Today I spend time adjusting the accelerator pump arm trying to get just the right amount of pressure between the two arms, .0015 with a feeler gauge right? What I noticed, I have tightened the accelerator pump arm spring down about 10 threads and the two arms still have contact. It seems to me there is something wrong but I don't know what? I do think this is the cause to my hesitation, does anybody else have their accelerator pump arm spring tightened down so much?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 08:28 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by RTT
I replied because I was shocked that after 7,8,or more pages of discussion trying to lean the fuel system from cruddy spark plugs no one mentioned that 600 CFM was too big of a carb! I had to reply.
The carb in question is a 600 cfm vacuum secondary. Which means that, unless the secondary spring is completely removed, it will never open fully to flow 600 cfm @ 1.5" hg. Which as I've said before, is only a rating. His engine may or may not create that pressure drop at WOT with that carb sitting on top. So, a 600 cfm carb is not "too big" for a 302. I've run a 3310 Holley 750 on an Explorer 5.0 and it worked just fine. It was not "too big" because that engine never created enough vacuum to fully open the secondaries, so it flowed somewhat less. You do not understand carburetors and how they function.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 08:32 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by BeauF0RD
I'm back and figured I would post an older post from 10-20-2017 when times were happier and also as proof that this 600 cfm carb did and can again run good on my truck. Back to my problem, as I said I recently put headers on my truck, changed spark plugs, changed the accelerator pump arm, changed the base gasket to my carb to a thicker 5/16 gasket to protect from potential heat soak from the new headers all at the same time. As I have already stated I now have an off idle hesitation. I just changed my #31 squirter nozzle to a #35 in hopes that it would resolve my hesitation, it didn't. Today I spend time adjusting the accelerator pump arm trying to get just the right amount of pressure between the two arms, .0015 with a feeler gauge right? What I noticed, I have tightened the accelerator pump arm spring down about 10 threads and the two arms still have contact. It seems to me there is something wrong but I don't know what? I do think this is the cause to my hesitation, does anybody else have their accelerator pump arm spring tightened down so much?
Without going back and rereading all you've posted, what did you set the initial timing at before you started tuning this carb ? If it's retarded too far, it will hesitate. Next, loosen that pump arm adjustment screw til the spring is fully extended. Then adjust the screw till there's little to no slack between the pump arm and the cam lever. When it's adjusted right, you should see fuel start to come out of the squirters the instant you move the throttle lever. I never used a feeler gauge to set the gap between the pump arm and lever.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 09:15 PM
  #117  
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Question, my accelerator pump diaphragm is green on one side and black on the other, is the green side suppose to be on the top and black side facing the ground? Just want to be sure mine is in correctly.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 09:19 PM
  #118  
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 09:21 PM
  #119  
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The reasoning behind using a .015" feeler gauge is simple, the idea is to prevent damaging the accelerator pump diaphragm at full throttle. There must be at least some clearance when the throttle is pegged all the way. But the "squirters" should initiate two strong streams of fuel as soon as the throttle is goosed to prevent bog or hesitation on acceleration.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 09:21 PM
  #120  
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You can also see how far down I have the spring sprung.
 
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