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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 04:04 PM
  #91  
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Might have better results changing the pump cam could be that cam is worn out. It should hesitate in all gears if the accelerator pump shot is off. You also need hose clamps on both sides of that filter.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 04:06 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by baddad457
Might have better results changing the pump cam could be that cam is worn out. It should hesitate in all gears if the accelerator pump shot is off. You also need hose clamps on both sides of that filter.
I have a orange pump cam, do you think I should try a different color? The filter is jammed in there hard and absolutely no chance of a leak. I don't even think I could pull the hose out if I wanted to.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 04:08 PM
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I couldn't say. I haven't messed with the cams in years. I would put a fresh cam of the same color on first before changing to a different cam.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 04:10 PM
  #94  
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Okay, thanks.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 05:58 PM
  #95  
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Not sure if link on ' how to' accelerator pump adjustment may find helpful?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 07:22 PM
  #96  
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Thanks daveengelson for the video. I am going to order a 35 squirter and a cam kit to experiment.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 02:46 AM
  #97  
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I had a stumbling problem with my 302 and Holley 4bbl after I assembled everything. I eventually found the accelerator to be sluggish. It turned out the diaphragm had gotten really stiff with age. If I watched the throttle bores while opening the throttle by hand, I see fuel being squirted, but it was hard to tell that there wasn't enough being squirted.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 09:11 AM
  #98  
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The older Holleys had a ball bearing check valve retained by a thin strip of metal leading to the pump(s) this was replaced with a rubber umbrella valve. The older style would get corroded and/or crudded up slowing the flow of fuel to it. The diaphragm usually ruptures when it gets dried out, this and the PV diaphragm are the two parts in them that need changing after they've sat up for any length of time because of this.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 07:29 PM
  #99  
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Hello again, I'm going to be buying a size 35 squirter tomorrow for my Holley carb. to see what it does for my hesitation issue, going up from a 31. I keep thinking about my timing, I'm set at 12 with total timing of 36 at 2700 rpms. I want to use the vacuum gauge and see if I can advance it further and hold a steady 20 vacuum. I also have my distributor vacuum hose attached to the manifold port. If I decided to hook the hose to the timed port do I have to readjust the distributor or do you just plug the hose into either manifold port or timed port and see which has better results?
 
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 08:22 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by BeauF0RD
Hello again, I'm going to be buying a size 35 squirter tomorrow for my Holley carb. to see what it does for my hesitation issue, going up from a 31. I keep thinking about my timing, I'm set at 12 with total timing of 36 at 2700 rpms. I want to use the vacuum gauge and see if I can advance it further and hold a steady 20 vacuum. I also have my distributor hose attached to the vacuum port. If I decided to hook the hose to the timed port do I have to readjust the distributor or do you just plug the hose into either vacuum port or timed port and see which has better results?
How did you set the timing in the first place ? Did you do it with the vacuum advance unhooked, or hooked up to the vacuum port on the intake ? To use the timed port on the carb (the nipple on the passenger side of the main metering block) unhook it, then set the initial timing then hook it back up. With it hooked to the intake, once you set it with it unhooked it's going to idle up the instant you reconnect the hose to the intake.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 08:35 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by baddad457
How did you set the timing in the first place ? Did you do it with the vacuum advance unhooked, or hooked up to the vacuum port on the intake ? To use the timed port on the carb (the nipple on the passenger side of the main metering block) unhook it, then set the initial timing then hook it back up. With it hooked to the intake, once you set it with it unhooked it's going to idle up the instant you reconnect the hose to the intake.
We had the vacuum advance unhooked and plugged with a gulf tee and the vacuum gauge hooked to the manifold port. I just edited my last post to hopefully make better sense.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 10:21 PM
  #102  
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The 289/302 in my 65 has the Holley 1850/4160 carb where the advance operates off secondary vacuum. In my case, does not require blocking the line from metered port to distributor; although does not matter if I do. I set idle mixture then adjust timing at around 10 degrees and I am done, hit the start and zoom-zoom. Vac. gauge runs at constant 18. Drove the truck for few hundred miles and pull plugs to find running a bit rich, went from 67 jets to 65 and seems to run cleaner. Anyhow that is how I have been tuning the engine over these many years.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2018 | 04:55 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by daveengelson
The 289/302 in my 65 has the Holley 1850/4160 carb where the advance operates off secondary vacuum. In my case, does not require blocking the line from metered port to distributor; although does not matter if I do. I set idle mixture then adjust timing at around 10 degrees and I am done, hit the start and zoom-zoom. Vac. gauge runs at constant 18. Drove the truck for few hundred miles and pull plugs to find running a bit rich, went from 67 jets to 65 and seems to run cleaner. Anyhow that is how I have been tuning the engine over these many years.
Thanks daveenglelson for your input on how you tune your engine. I bought my size 35 squirter today and hopefully that helps with the hesitation. I am also going to try to advance my timing further just to see what type of effect it has. Do you know what size squirter your carb has?
 
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Old Sep 6, 2018 | 06:00 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by BeauF0RD
Thanks daveenglelson for your input on how you tune your engine. I bought my size 35 squirter today and hopefully that helps with the hesitation. I am also going to try to advance my timing further just to see what type of effect it has. Do you know what size squirter your carb has?
Going thru receipts and came across rebuild kit but in reviewing item description does not mention the nozzle size or type, I have requested information from supplier for the information. I do recall decided to replace the original straight type nozzle for the 'squirt type' and the receipt shows that it was for an 025 nozzle; having said that, I was going thru my trial and error phase and not clear what size nozzle I decided to settle on? If needed, and time permit I will pull the nozzle and check the size.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2018 | 06:44 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by daveengelson
Going thru receipts and came across rebuild kit but in reviewing item description does not mention the nozzle size or type, I have requested information from supplier for the information. I do recall decided to replace the original straight type nozzle for the 'squirt type' and the receipt shows that it was for an 025 nozzle; having said that, I was going thru my trial and error phase and not clear what size nozzle I decided to settle on? If needed, and time permit I will pull the nozzle and check the size.
Thanks for offering to pull your nozzle but that is really not necessary as I was just curious. My squirters (nozzles) both have the tube type squirters on them. I plan on spending a lot of time messing with the timing and carb. adjustments to see what works best. I will post my results this weekend.
 
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