302 engine issues.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 219
From: W (BY GOD) V
Well, both are good brands. I would go with whichever is cheaper right now until you get everything dialed in correctly, than maybe a fresh set of MOTORCRAFT copper.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 664
Likes: 2
From: York Pa.
Friday report, I have been doing a lot of back road driving and diagnosing the last two weeks. I had a hesitation when I would romp on the throttle but today we did some adjusting on the accelerator pump and the hesitation is gone.
However we are not getting the 4 barrel to kick in. I have ordered a new vacuum secondary diaphragm, new spring kit and a quick change top cover (PN 20-59). Hopefully this will help with getting the carbs.full power potential.
However we are not getting the 4 barrel to kick in. I have ordered a new vacuum secondary diaphragm, new spring kit and a quick change top cover (PN 20-59). Hopefully this will help with getting the carbs.full power potential.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,016
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
How do you know the secondaries aren't opening?
Have you tried manually opening them? You need to open the primaries first before trying to open the secondary. It's good to at least check to make sure no linkages are jammed.
Have you tried manually opening them? You need to open the primaries first before trying to open the secondary. It's good to at least check to make sure no linkages are jammed.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 664
Likes: 2
From: York Pa.
Friday report, So I got my new parts, a secondary diaphragm, a spring kit and a quick top. When we took the carburetor apart we discovered the diaphragm that was in the carburetor was good but replaced it any how since I already bought the new one. I love the new quick top, it makes changing out springs a breeze. My carburetor had the heaviest spring in it, black, and that was the problem why the secondaries were not kicking in. After running and changing numerous springs we ended up with the long yellow spring that gave us a good smooth power surge. I believe the carburetor is finally as good as we can make it with what we have available. I will drive it as is until I can afford to get true dual exhaust with headers and that may be a few months down the road. Thanks again for everybody's help and a happy ending.
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New User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Are you running a computer?
To address the backfiring, check the accelerator pump linkage, there should be little to no slack in the linkage, too much and that'll cause a lag in the pump shot, causing the backfire. Too little timing will also do this. Also I wouldn't worry about the mechanical advance inside the distributor until you have dialed everything else in. I'm running a stock reman 85 Stang distributor as is, right out of the box in my 331. I've found no need to screw with the mech advance weights or springs. The motor runs like it has EFI with it's 3x2 setup and stock Duraspark. Last time I checked it would pull down 16 mpg at 70 mph without overdrive (turning around 3 grand). And you change springs and weights you'll need to find someway to verify the results (dyno or passes at the track), otherwise you'll be shooting in the dark.
I'm building a '85 302. I was thinking on using stock distributor. Someone told me how to wire without using a computer.
Now for the timing issue. The Crane Cam I'm installing says it will change the firing order. It's a 478 lift, 284 duration. I contacted Crane and the gentleman who I spoke with informed me of it.
I'm building a little playtoy. It's a '89 Ranger Kingcab. My block is bored 30 over and decked 15 thousandth. My head's are stock besides being shaved 8 thousandth. No timing chain in this motor, straight gears. Have a little Motorcraft built by Holley carb, think it's just a little 600 cfm.
I'm hoping to get 375-400 hp out of it. Any little hints you could give me about the carb? It does need rebuilt but I'm just holding off for now. Any certain power valve you would recommend? I was thinking on jetting it up a little, maybe close to 650 cfm.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
I'm building a '85 302. I was thinking on using stock distributor. Someone told me how to wire without using a computer.
Now for the timing issue. The Crane Cam I'm installing says it will change the firing order. It's a 478 lift, 284 duration. I contacted Crane and the gentleman who I spoke with informed me of it.
I'm building a little playtoy. It's a '89 Ranger Kingcab. My block is bored 30 over and decked 15 thousandth. My head's are stock besides being shaved 8 thousandth. No timing chain in this motor, straight gears. Have a little Motorcraft built by Holley carb, think it's just a little 600 cfm.
I'm hoping to get 375-400 hp out of it. Any little hints you could give me about the carb? It does need rebuilt but I'm just holding off for now. Any certain power valve you would recommend? I was thinking on jetting it up a little, maybe close to 650 cfm.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 585
From: Chillicothe
On top of what baddad said, lose the gear drive setup. The tolerance required for meshing gears properly can cause fluctuation in your timing up to 4 degrees back and forth. Just get a quality timing chain.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Ditto on this ! I was in a hurry when I typed the previous post. There's absolutely no reason to run a gear drive for the cam. I've got a $25 O.E double row, roller chain set driving the cam in my 331 (Cloyes for a GT Stang) It's been doin it's job for 14 years now. I pulled the timing cover last year when I went into the motor to change a bent rod. Chain was still nice-n-tight.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 664
Likes: 2
From: York Pa.
Okay I'm back with another issue. I recently put new headers and exhaust on my 76 and I also replaced my spark plugs with a new set of autolite spark plugs since I had to remove the old ones to install the headers. I also replaced the carburetor base gasket with a 5/16 thick Holley gasket to help prevent any possible future heat soak issues with the carburetor from the header heat. Since I had the carburetor off I replaced my used and slightly bend accelerator pump arm with a new one. Now to my issue, when I lightly accelerate I have a hesitation in second and third gear. I already tightened down the accelerator pump arm spring more than I like with no good results. Any suggestions?