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I'm done with torquing down my pedestal rockers, what a journey. It's a good feeling to learn than do. I decided to remove my distributor cap so I could make sure I was staying on the compression stroke as I went from cylinder to cylinder. I would put my finger over the spark plug hole of the cylinder I was preparing to torque and as I turned the crank and got close I could feel the air pushing out when the air was done pushing out it seem to coincide with the rotor pointing at the spot on the distributor that identified what cylinder I was working on, also both push rods were completely in the closed position and the piston was pushed all the way out toward the spark plug hole. I know I'm not explaining this very well but with getting the valve lash set properly all the rockers torqued between a 1/4 turn and 3/4 turn, I only had to shim 3 rockers. Tomorrow I will try to fire the truck up to see how successful I was with all my careful and hard work.
Now that I finally got the carburetor on my 302 dialed in and the engine running pretty good, i want to fix a valve tap. I have had a valve tap pretty much since buying the truck two years ago. My neighbor tried to address it buy putting shims under the tiny cap that is under the rocker on cylinder #2. I'm guessing the shims have been obliterated because the tap is as bad as ever. I'm thinking about pulling the valve covers and checking all the rockers for excess looseness and going to try and replace parts that are worn. I don't want to buy new or refurbished heads at this time. So do you think I could get away with just replacing worn parts?
5/31/19 That's when I made this initial post about my tapping valve. Today I finally fired up my truck after all the studying and fixing and I'm glad to report that all the rockers were silently pushing oil and that means I no longer have a valve tap. Tomorrow I am going to take it out for a road test, hopefully all goes well.
I had the truck out running around the neighborhood several times today, and it is running very good. It is wonderful to have the valve tap gone and to know the rocker arm assembly is torqued down properly. Unfortunately I can't really say I feel increase in horse power but am still very happy with my success.
i felt the same way about the recent head and cam upgrade I did to my 302/306. On the first time out after break-in, I gave it hard pull from 0-60 and thought "Is it it?".
i felt the same way about the recent head and cam upgrade I did to my 302/306. On the first time out after break-in, I gave it hard pull from 0-60 and thought "Is it it?".
I wish I had the funds to do that upgrade and 3.73 possi rears while I'm at it.
I got an entire aluminum 3rd member with my unit, and obviously that cost quite a bit more, but I did not want to try to rebuild a diff on my own. If you have a reliable mechanic who can assemble and set up a differential for you, rebuilding yours with this is worth considering. You will still need to get new gears of your choice, of course.
My son and I took the 76 out today to run some errands. I am very pleased with how well it is tuned right now, since replacing a couple of the rockers and properly tightening everything the valves just sound tight and right. I wish I could say the same about my 99 f150 4x4 which is in the garage getting a diagnostic to figure out why it is missing and bucking. I am considering selling both of my trucks and getting a (96-97) manual, 460 gas engine, extend cab,4x4. combining my work truck and classic hot rod into one hot rod work truck.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.