When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Not an authority, seem to recall fuel cross over tubes are different lengths depending upon type of fuel metering bowl? Do not believe one can not mix and match bowls, either umbrella or check ball and I believe depending upon type determines length of the cross over tube?
There are two length transfer tubes, one for a 4150, the other for a 4160. So any side hung bowl will work. As to mix and match, I've swapped center hung bowls onto an 1850 carb. There were also those carbs with the tiny brass tube between them, those had a different metering block, the bowls were the same as those without that tube
The reasoning behind using a .015" feeler gauge is simple, the idea is to prevent damaging the accelerator pump diaphragm at full throttle. There must be at least some clearance when the throttle is pegged all the way.
But the "squirters" should initiate two strong streams of fuel as soon as the throttle is goosed to prevent bog or hesitation on acceleration.
Correct. The .015" CLR is to insure the linkage does not cause too much pressure/travel possibly damaging the accelerator pump diaphragm. When properly set, the arm will still be against the diaphragm but very little spring pressure is applied. This insures no excess movement on tip-in.
It is set with the throttle linkage fully open and arriving at .015" between the arm and diaphragm adjusting the nut in the spring. Too loose and the shot may not be long enough. Too tight and it may damage the pump diaphragm. The spring merely keeps the arm in contact with the diaphragm to ensure constant contact/no slop and possible resultant tip-in hesitation.
If you change cams, you need to check adjustment again.
The .015" CLR is to insure the linkage does not cause too much pressure/travel possibly damaging the accelerator pump diaphragm ... It is set with the throttle linkage fully open ...
Just so everybody is clear on this, it's set with the engine OFF!
In case you haven't already checked, the accelerator pump pushes the fuel through this tiny passage in the pump chamber that has to pass through a tiny hole in the metering block, through a tiny hole in the gasket between the block and the carb body. If the gasket, block, and body aren't aligned properly, the flow will be obstructed. You can check this by looking at the impressions on the gasket after you take it apart. I've always felt that the Holley castings seemed a little coarse, and sometimes they just don't want to line up.
Due to problems I was having in other parts of my fuel system at some points in the past, I was having to take one of my carbs apart every week. I noticed that the Holley gaskets were designed to stick to the metal parts, and each time I took them apart, I would destroy them, and had to clean off entrails from the carb. I ended up getting some re-usable neoprene rubber gaskets made by Moroso. They're 3X the cost of Holley's but they're well worth the price when you're tuning your carb. Just not having to scrap off remnants from the carb parts each time saved a lot of time and effort.
The last time I had to get into one of my carbs, I had to replace the accelerator diaphragm because it had stiffened up, and was responding too slowly, causing stumbling during tip-in. It was one of the standard black versions that I estimate had been in there for about 8 years. I replaced it with a similar model as it's what I had lying around. If I had to do it again, I would try the fancy green one to see if it lasts longer.
So many people have assisted me with my problem and I am thankful for all the help. So I wanted to start off by saying again this carb is very old but all the gaskets, diaphragms, jets, PV,etc. were replaced before installing in my truck about 14 months ago. I just ordered a Holley spring bracket 20-282 that will hopefully resolve my throttle hanging up and not returning to idle at stop signs etc. I want to replace the fuel filter, hoses and put hose clamps on every needed place. Change out the spark plugs and give it another shot at tuning the carb properly using my vacuum gauge.
Actually with this picture I was trying to show xlt4wd90 that the gasket is the proper one and everything appears to be lined up properly. Again any feed back is welcomed.
Actually with this picture I was trying to show xlt4wd90 that the gasket is the proper one and everything appears to be lined up properly. Again any feed back is welcomed.
The gasket looks OK to me as well. The bowl gasket is symmetrical side-to-side; it has that hole for the accelerator pump on both sides. Just make sure there's nothing obstructing in that passage that might obstruct pump flow.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.