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About the S gaskets... you can glue them down to the block and let the sealant dry/cure for a while, and THEN glue down the actual manifold. Keeps those things from potentially getting squished out of place or otherwise moving.
Definitely not what I did. I let the first layer + the S gaskets dry for about 20 minutes, then completed the rest and tossed the intake on.
Vacuum leaks in my near future?
Great info - wish I woulda asked for it before I did the intake. Thanks for the post Chris!
How do you get the turkey pan to sit properly without the S-gaskets?
Does it just merely 'rest' on the squishy RTV?
You should have a little metal nipple on each of the heads...these help to hold the turkey pan in place. I usually pre-fit the pan before setting it in.
A 0.25" bead of RTV run along the china walls...and up the heads a little bit works. A bit on the inside of the turkey pan where the water jacket runs...the same for around the intake ports. Let the RTV breathe or tack over before placement.
More RTV on the top side, same places and thicknesses again, letting it breathe for a spell, the set the intake.
Torque to specs. Haven't had an pil leak....haha or an oil leak since doing this.
Haahaha....absolutely true.....the 335 series' intake is a dry manifold. Just been playin' with too many Chubbies at the shop and they've been on my bony little head. I realized my mistake later....Thanks...
Been dealing with family illnesses, illness of my own, and some parts searching in 6 feet of snow.
Now that I somewhat have the numbers worked out, the plan is to run a dual serpentine belt system similar to the factory v-belt routing with the exception of the water pump.
Pulley ratios and sizes look good given what I've pulled from the junkyards. Just figuring out the shims to get it all lined up properly, then I'll post my progress.
Not planning on running any tensioners - likely not a great idea but we'll see how it goes and correct from there.
Can't help but give a small update. Nothing is finished, but I haven't started cutting, grinding or measuring anything just yet.
I wanted to do a detailed write-up with part numbers, pulley diameters, assumed operating speeds, measurements, the tools I used to get the job done, etc...
The big question I wanted some opinions on.... does anyone see an issue with running serpentine belts without tensioner pulleys or idler pulleys?
Power steering system is out of alignment, but it'll be straight when I'm done. Don't worry about the stacked washers, or the alignment issues for now. What I'm more interested in is how running a dual serpentine belt system without tensioners and idlers will affect the performance/quality of the system.
I applaud your desire to record stuff to the last detail....
The serpentine belt question: Will you still have the ability to adjust the tension on the belt(s) the same as if you were running V belts? If so, I wouldn't worry about it. Those tensioners are there to do just that...keep tension on the belts when the pulleys, etc, are locked with no adjustment, as you well know.
