Definitely will!

 

Here's what the shop and I came up with. Exactly as Filthy Beast said... stock cam bearing for cam bearing #1. The rest will be Tim's special cam bearings.

Seems like a bit of a goofy set-up. But there's a good reason behind it. We called around to other shops to see what they thought about machining a bushing for Cam Bearing #1 and cutting a relief for it to be pressed in. Everyone said we were crazy to even consider it if the motor won't see 7,000rpm.

We talked about other methods, but eventually settled on a stock bearing for #1. What can it hurt? It had good oil pressure when I took the motor apart (wish I had graded gauge on it instead of the stock L--H gauge... but whatever).


So in the end, here's an update. Stock bearing for cam bearing #1 will be ordered, and the long block will be assembled in the new year.

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________

Motor is almost ready to come together, just needs some small parts, and it'll be assembled in the new year.

Crank and rods blueprinted.

Attachment 286515

A few extra mods to help oil flow.

Attachment 286516

Cam bearings are waiting to go in. We finally decided on cam bearing #1 for the cam tunnel, given it was damaged from the factory. Standard bearing for cam #1, the rest will be TMeyer special cam bearings to promote oil pressure.

Attachment 286519

Attachment 286520

Attachment 286521

This guy takes some serious pride in his work. Stamped and everything.

Attachment 286522

3-angle valve job, bronze guides, hardened seats, the works... Milled 0.008".

Attachment 286518

Attachment 286523

Looking good!

Attachment 286524

Everything measured, corrected if needed, and matched properly.

Attachment 286525

Attachment 286526

This image makes me happy

Attachment 286517



Ran my compression numbers using BubbaF250's calculator.

Here's what I came up with:

__________________inch______cc___________cid
Chamber Vol.............................74.2.............. ...4.527979496
Deck Height..............10.297
Compression Height...1.71 (zero deck height)
Rod Length...............6.58
Deck Clearance.........0.007........1.463179027.....0.0 89289011
Gasket Thickness......0.04..........8.361023011.....0.510 222921
Piston Relief.............................13.3........... .......0.811618966
Clearance Vol...........................97.32420204......5.9 39110395

Bore.......................4.03
Stroke....................4.00
Swept Vol................................836.1023011.... ..51.02229213

Static CR.................................9.590898087.... ..9.590898087

Darn, those look like nice numbers from an old Ford 400...

9.6:1 static compression ratio, 0 deck height, milled heads (0.008 = 74.2cc from 75.6cc), 4.030 bore, 4.0 stroke, 13.3 piston relief's (T-Meyer Keith Black hypereutectic pistons = KB2347)...

I can almost feel the torque under my foot...

That's all for now folks. January 2018 will bring many more updates.

 

Aaron-71 that's a really nice looking build you've got going together! What kind of rods are those?

 

Thank you!

Stock connecting rods. I'm not 100% sure that those are mine in the photo though - Mine have already been assembled with the pistons and wrist pins.

The shop has lots of projects lying around, I just happened to snap a photo of some else's stuff I guess haha.

Can't wait to see this motor go back together.

 

I guess they do look a little small to be a 400 rod. Not a factory rod for sure!

I think you'll be very pleased with your build. It's impressive what a "properly" built 400 can do!

 

Thanks for the encouragement!

I'm really looking forward to getting this engine up and running. It'll be a terrifying experience to start the motor for the first time...

But I've taken about every precaution I possibly could to try and make this a smooth ordeal.

Fingers crossed it goes well!

 

Looking good!

 

Small Update.

Ring gaps confirmed with Tim because there was some confusion for my shop.

Keith Black Specifies:
Top Ring Gap = 4.030 x 0.0065 = 0.026"
Second Ring Gap = 4.030 x 0.0045 = 0.018" (called UEM to get this value as it was not specified on the Keith Black attachment)

However, there is some conflicting information with the Total Seal rings that come with the KB2347 Kit.

Total Seal specifies:
Top Ring Gap = 4.030 x 0.0045 = 0.018"
Second Ring Gap = 4.030 x 0.0045 = 0.018"

Since I confirmed it with Tim, we're going with 0.026" TOP, 0.018" BOTTOM gaps.

Should work out well.

Thank you to Tim for being quick to respond to my email/phone calls.

 

Nice to see you're moving along. Mebbe by February you'll have first fire?

What happened to December?

 

It's nice to be moving along too! Ugh... yeah... likely end of Jan, or start of Feb

Well... christmas holidays, some pissing around with that #1 cam bearing, the motor shop constantly getting in "over night" work on random stuff...

You know how it goes with motor shops. Something always comes up.

 

Hopefully a very quick and easy answer lol...

I've got Melling aftermarket rocker arms on the rebuilt motor. They didn't come with those funny-looking clips that sat on the stock rocker arms, under the bolt.

Are stock-style aftermarket rocker arms supposed to have those clips installed under the bolt with the rocker arm assembly?

Furthermore, what are they? And are they necessary (in an aftermarket application)?

You can see the "clips" I'm referring to in this photo. Row 2, and Row 5. Photo is of stock rocker arm assembly (exploded).

https://dudazps6njn84.cloudfront.net/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/sIAAAOSwpOxZ-5M8/$_57.JPG?set_id=8800005007

 

Those little "clip" dealies are there to help stop the oil from shooting up past the rocker arm (on the pushrod side) hole and getting everywhere......and helps oil in getting to the rocker bolts and fulcrum. Notice the little lines on the fulcrum? They're oiling lines.

Are they necessary? If your new rockers have that hole through it where the end of the pushrod sits, they are a good thing. In fact, the new rockers should have a hole on that end......how else would the rocker bolts/nuts get oiled? And from there, the valve springs?

 

Interesting! Never would have guessed that.

Learning lots today (insert clip of homer simpson at his work station) LOL.

I'll post a pic of my motor soon. Haven't updated, but it's back in my garage

 

Double check with Melling if the clips are required.

If they truly are OE replacements, and the clips are required, I'd be very worried about who built my engine !

 

My rocker arms have that little hole at the top of the rocker to squirt the oil towards the fulcrum and bolt.

See pic:









Good call, I should double check. However, after looking at the photos closely, I'm not sure they're needed.

If they were needed, they likely would have been provided in the Melling rocker kit that was installed.