HOLY QUOTES BATMAN! This message is huge lol. Take a quick read at the bottom before you attempt to answer anything. You likely answered my ramble already (at the bottom).


My thoughts exactly. I didn't bother to ask - rather not upset the guy holding all the cards and instead I asked when it would be done and what I could do to improve the situation (more $$$ up front? Parts he might be missing, etc). Didn't budge, and didn't need anything. Oh well... December (or later) it is!


I was planning on running Comp Cams break-in oil, but after reading about Joe Gibbs and having several of my racer friends suggest to go that route... I think I'll make an order for some BR30 (5W-30) break-in oil! The extra $$$ up front I don't mind, especially if it puts my worries at ease.

I never knew that 5W30 BR30 Driven oil could be used for so many miles! That stuff looks like the ticket for the first 300kms or so + cam scrub. Great suggestion.


Well, I've been sending prayers to the Ford gods that nothing happens on initial break-in. Guess there's only 1 way to find out.


Bought 3 wix filters back in august. Should be good in this department for the first 1000km at least.


Likely Joe Gibbs 5W-30 BR30.

In your opinion, how much longer after the first 500km would you be using more Break-in oils? That's the kind of answer I can't seem to find that's consistent and accurate online lol.

The entire break-in period is suggested to last the first 5000 kms (approximately... based on what I keep seeing). But that doesn't answer how long a person should be using break-in oils for during this first 5000kms....

Use BR30 to the first 500, then switch to ________? Keep using BR30 for the entire first 5000kms then switch to ________?

Basically my question regarding this is when does a person switch to what they'll be using long-term on the motor. There's no definite answer out there from what I can see. As in... Stop using BR30 at ________ kms, switch to _________ (insert oil type) and continue to drive as if you're breaking it in for the next _________ kms.

For me, I'll likely run Rotella T6 oil in my motor once the break-in period is over... but should I be running that 500 kms? 5000kms? Somewhere in-between? Additives? Etc.

I'm not sure if what I just wrote above will confuse everyone even more... but it makes sense to me when I re-read it lol. Everyone seems to have their own version of what's considered "broken in" and when to switch to the long-term oil they plan on using. It's all very confusing!


Yeah, I gotcha there. Drive it like I stole it (fast and hard)... but let the motor slow itself down (don't use the brakes!). Apparently this will increase cylinder pressures, thereby sucking the rings outward and forcing them to seat.

I've heard that driving it with varying rpms when cruising is important as well... As in, don't let it just cruise at 2,500rpm for 100kms straight... Gotta be a little hard on it and vary everything just a little so its all happy once you get passed that 5000km mark.


I was originally planning on running Prestone green + distilled, but it seems to be disappearing off of the shelves?

Either way I'll be running a high quality coolant + distilled... or just pre-mixed.


Preparation I can do! Just made my own oil pump priming tool last night (original dizzy). One less thing.


Haha, again you make it sound too easy lol.


Preparation is my middle name lol. Hence all the questions!


Neat. I think this answer gives me a better idea of what I was asking above (after first 500kms).

Looks like BR30 for the first 500 (well... 400 based on what their website says). Then switch to whatever, as long as it's still got good ZDDP content (Rotella T6 in my case).

Any opinions on using just T6 after 500kms (no additives)? Is there something different/better out there I should use instead up to the 5000km mark?

 

Agreed....Joe Gibbs Driven for the 300 miles, during the interim, timing check/re-set, distributor re-curve (if needed), wiring check, brakes re-check, etc, etc.

A word of caution here....don't be to quick to switch to a synthetic oil just yet...that Rotella T6 is synthetic, no? The reason being is because it's too slippery and the rings (although probably seated) might take a bit longer to reach their "happy place."
Wait several hundred miles/kilometers before switching to synthetic. A good 5W/20 dinosaur oil with the ZDP additive will work. Then switch to yer T6.... if it's got the zinc/phosphorous in it already.

A work on the magic 500Km......there's no such thing....and it's not written in stone that 500Km is the number. Just as the doctors in the world would like to see everyone with a cholesterol number of 100, it just ain't the case. Every engine is different, just as every human is different. But...you could use the BR 30 again if you wanted. They're sold by the case, no? Or you could buy a few quarts to make up the difference in the case and use it all up. Again for another 400 or so Km. Then use your T6.

Another word on break-in....don't be afraid to add a little extra oil at first. In other words, fill the crankcase up to the mark then add some more - mebbe 0.75 of a quart. The cam lobes get oiled by splash from the crank and a bit more ain't gonna hurt. Every little bit helps. These new oils all have an anti foaming additive so that's not an issue.

 

Well I just placed an order for some Joe Gibbs HR2 10W-30 oil.

If I want this to go right, I have to start off on the right foot. 3 oil changes worth of Hot Rod oil for breaking in the motor over the first 5000kms. May as well invest the little bit extra and go the extra mile.

Now just to order the break-in oil.

I've been going the extra mile since the beginning of the build, so may as well continue.

Thanks for the insightful info on the break-in period. I think I have things somewhat understood now.

However, I'm sure I'll have another panic attack in the future lol.

EDIT: Just ordered my break-in oil as well. Another oil change waiting to happen.

 

Well, good for you!

Good luck and we'll be waiting here for your next "panic attack."

 

Well... update time.

Take a quick look at the photos for cam journal #1... hmmm something don't look quite right...





Two bad spots.

Any thoughts?

 

I had a set of cam bearings fail when the oil was contaminated with coolant, foamed, the overheated the cam bearings. It actually stripped the babbit right off the backing. I can't quite tell what is going on with yours. I ended up using a set of coated Durabond cam bearings in the rebuild.

 

From the pictures it seems like that journal got scored when someone yanked out that berrin'. What happens when you rub a fingernail across it? Does it "catch?" You could try some ScotchBrite on it if it does....just enough rubbing to clean it up.

 

Correctamundo. Scored cam journals. Two locations, and they're quite deep.

Deep enough that the scoring would allow oil to leak passed it if it wasn't addressed. Not good!

I could easily catch my finger nail on the journals. The scoring is about a finger nail worth of thickness...

EDIT: the large score is about 1.5X the width of a pencil... the small one is about 1/2 the width of a pencil. Just some more reference for you fellas.

 

Yikes!
Those cam journal berrins are a pretty tight fit and, for the most part, oil doesn't - or shouldn't - come between the journal and outside diameter of the berrin. Think about that for a moment.....if there was oil in between the berrin and journal, how would the berrin stay in place...not "walk," as it were? That's why they 're put in dry. The holes in the berrin allow for cam journal lubrication, no? The same thing with the mains and rod berrins, although there's that little 'nubbie' dealie to keep 'em set whilst torquing them.

I would question yer.....builder.... about all of this, as he (she?) was the one pulling the berrins out, correct? You gave him the block and he did the rest, no? I'm sure you would have seen the galling if you pulled the berrins....being as fastidious as you are.....

 

With Tim's Oiling mods, the oil passes along the back-side of the bearing before hitting the cam doesn't it?

I thought that's how his mod worked given by Gary here:

351M and 400 - ???Gary's Garagemahal

Unfortunately for me, the larger of the two scored areas is directly where the new oil flow would come from on the cam bearing (roughly 4 o-clock position)

I left the bearings in tact when I gave the block over. I figured it would be good information for the builder. I'll have a look back at my old photos though to confirm.

 

I'm familiar with TMeyer's #1 main journal modifications but I don't see where it involves drilling/tapping/plugging into the cam journals.

He's drilling into the main oil feed from the oil filter, between it and #1 main journal, no more. Then, at 11 o'clock (picture) the stock oil flow from the main to the right side lifter tunnel is drilled, tapped and plugged.

Am I missing something here? Old brain cells, donchaknow.

I can understand how nice it would be to have the oil wedge at 4 o'clock but not really necessary. TMeyer mentioned one doesn't have to use his cam berrins...he's just making it easier for us.

Let me run downstairs and check another M Block for a peek-see on the cam journals...Be back shortly.

 

Maybe I worded something incorrectly. I'm the newbie here haha.

What I was saying was: The #1 cam journal is damaged. I've already reached a point of no return on restricting the oil flow with the tap/plug from the Main journal feed as described on gary's webpage. Basically everything but installing the cam bearings has been done to complete the modification.

Since the 1/4 pipe plug is installed, doesn't that mean that I HAVE to use Tim's special cam bearings and clock them correctly as well?

I wasn't of the impression that I could still clock the cam bearings the old way (straight up or at the 6 o-clock position) once the pipe plug was installed. Maybe I'm wrong?

NOTE: I might be getting my ups and downs incorrect here (might be the 12-o-clock position if I'm incorrect on direction).

EDIT: I looked back at my old photos. The builder never damaged the cam journal. It's tough to see in my photos, but there's evidence that the damage existed the day I pulled the cam and found bad bearings.

 

Ok...I think the first picture you posted threw me off....it looks like a hole is drilled at ~ 1 o'clock. (cam journal)

You're correct - TMeyer's berrins are grooved on the outside of the berrin from the stock oil flow position ( 6 o'clock ) CCW 30* to 4 o'clock to allow the oil wedge to start there.

However, there's nothing wrong with the oil flow starting at the 6 o'clock position. The main concern (hehe, pun intended) is blocking off 1 oil feed line to #1 main (2 feed lines down to 1, keeping 1 to the cam and 1 to the right side lifter tunnel).

However, if you're so inclined or having a panic attack about this (), talk to Gary or TMeyer about #1 cam journal's oil wedge....Some Gen IV BBC (???? what???) I've worked on recently don't have the oil wedge start at 90*, neither do other old Ford engines.

 

Haha, yeah now I see what I did wrong here. I posted my photos upside-down. Opps!

Interesting stuff. I'd still like to see the benefits of the increased oil pressure, and the journal needs to be repaired anyways, so it looks like I know my answer now. - Just keep on trucking! lol

Agreed. Blocking off the oil feed line to Main #1 has been completed. I thought I was completely screwed because this had already been complete but the cam journal damage hadn't been identified yet.

Had I known that the bearings can still be installed in the OEM orientation (6-o-clock), then I wouldn't have paniced lol. I thought you had to have 1 (blocking the main feed) with the other (installed new bearings clocked).

Since they're independent of each other, it doesn't matter... but you're right, I should probably confirm with Tim.

Panic attack already started! LOL I'll do some calling/digging though. Thanks dude!

 

You're welcome.

Stock oiling for the #1 cam berrin is fine - with or without TMeyer's berrins. As mentioned earlier, blocking off that one main feed line will result in less "unwarranted" or needed oil to #1 main. The #1 cam berrin will still get oiled....as well as the right side lifter tunnel....mebbe with a bit more psi, but nothing to write home about.

You'll still have better than average oil pressure at the rear of the block - between the right side lifter tunnel and the left. Probably means #5 rockers will get oil better, too.

Let us know what you come up with, no?