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Pulled the alternator today. It is a Powermaster 8-67141 and is shown as a one-wire upgrade for Fords with a max output of 140 amps.
As said, it doesn't have any output, and I was hoping it was either the style that allows you to short a terminal and kick it into full output for testing, or that it has oiled-up slip rings. Neither is the case. In fact, I don't know what kind of alternator it actually is. I've included a couple of pics below in case someone knows since I need to rebuild it since the brush housing is broken, which I probably did in disassembling it. And don't know what parts to buy since I don't know what alternator it is. I have a call into Powermaster, but who knows if they'll call back.
On the other hand, I have the 1G alternator out of Dad's truck and the regulator is still on the fender of Big Blue and is wired up. So, I'm considering installing Dad's alternator and then doing a 3G upgrade to BB in the future so I know what the parts are when I need to rebuild or replace it. I don't like being tied to someone like Powermaster.
Well, Chris from Powermaster returned my call. Turns out they don't sell a rebuild kit and you are supposed the send it in for repair - but they don't charge for labor, just parts. However, he did tell me it is based on GM's 12SI alternator but with special parts.
I'm headed out to put Dad's 1G alternator on..............
I installed what used to be Rusty's alternator. Apparently I put Dad's 1G on Rusty when I pulled Dad's truck down for the restomod as Rusty's rattled. Still does, although not bad. Anyway, it works and the battery voltage does about what it should.
I say "about" as I'm not used to having a truck with an electric fuel pump, but the voltage at the battery goes down to about 12.8V when idling, and up to 14.5V when the engine is running about 2000 RPM. So, it is par for the course with a 1G. And, the regulator on the fender works, as does the ammeter. But, the big Autometer tach is apparently quite sensitive and it now glitches, probably due to the regulator's actions. However, the stock tach works quite well, so the Autometer will come out when the AFR gauge goes on.
And, the aftermarket voltmeter is apparently wired to cab power, as it runs about 1.0v low with nothing in the cab running, and up to 1.5v low with the blower on high. Oh well, just another thing to sort out - later.
Oh yes, there's been a breakthrough on another gauge - the coolant temp gauge. I discovered a red/white wire with the right-angle press-on terminal dangling by the coil. Sure enough, if that is grounded the coolant temp gauge goes to the peg. But, there's no coolant temp sensor - where's it supposed to be on a 460? In the intake manifold?
Anyway, the bottom line is I now have an alternator so the truck can be driven. It isn't the alternator I want, but it'll do for now. But, if/when I put a Warn winch in that Warn bumper and add the auxiliary battery that Vernon got the tray for I'll need more juice than the little 1G can throw. So I'll do a 3G upgrade and at least be able to get another one if I'm in the back of beyond and it fails.
Yes Gary, the coolant temp sensor goes in the intake.
iirc, Big Blue has a Performer intake so there should be a port (two) for it.
Many people remove "all that smog crap" and end up with an open port in the thermostat housing (but I think it may be too small for a stock sender)
The 130A 3G can put out more current at idle that the 2G- or the regular 1G- can at redline.
Should be much better at keeping dual batteries charged with a winch running.
Yes, it looks like there's a port for the temp sender in the intake. I'll have to check out the size thereof. But, I'm going to be busy for the next several days, so it will have to wait. However, I do want the factory gauges to work, so after the coolant temp gauge is working that will just leave the fuel gauge.
As for the alternator, you are right - the big 3G should be a good upgrade. And it is readily available everywhere, which is not true of a Powermaster. But, I'm wondering about changing out the shunt for something capable of handling twice the current of the existing one so I can keep the ammeter. After all, the aftermarket gauges have a voltmeter, so converting the ammeter to a voltmeter would be redundant - although the aftermarket oil pressure and coolant temp gauges are certainly redundant. Anyway, it would be pretty easy to parallel the existing shunt with another just like it, thereby increasing the range of the ammeter from what I suspect is 70 amps to 140 amps. Thoughts?
I know 3G is preferred over the Powermaster, but are you going to send it in anyway and have it repaired/rebuilt? Might be a good idea to have it done and sitting there for when/if you want to use it.
Just a thought as I see Summit has these for $241.97. If nothing else it's worth something to somebody for $$ or trade.
Gary, you would think that if you doubled the shunt you would double the range of the ammeter.
I have no idea what the original ammeter was designed for, but I know that most... the needle barely moves anyhow.
Why don't you ask the Rocketman guy?
I'd bet he knows these ammeter inside and out
I'm going to take to O'Reilly's and see if I can get the parts, assuming it is essentially a 12SI. However, it is a 1-wire alternator so the regulator may well be different.
Speaking of that, the Powermaster site talks about 1-wire and 2-wire alternators. As I understand it, a 1-wire alternator senses via that wire, but doesn't kick in until the RPM hits something like 1,250. On the other hand, a 2-wire gets a key-on signal via the second wire, so it starts charging as soon as the engine starts.
Gary, you would think that if you doubled the shunt you would double the range of the ammeter.
I have no idea what the original ammeter was designed for, but I know that most... the needle barely moves anyhow.
Why don't you ask the Rocketman guy?
I'd bet he knows these ammeter inside and out
Good idea! I'll ask him what voltage, or is it current, it takes to take the meter to full scale.
New voltmeter lead as in the feed to the aftermarket voltmeter? I'm going right to the battery, which has a smaller stud that will make it easy. And, I'll fuse it right by the battery.
That will show you the voltage in the cab, which isn't battery voltage - as shown in my testing today. It was from 1.0 to 1.5 volts below battery voltage in Big Blue's case, meaning the aftermarket voltmeter was showing about 11.3 - 11.8 volts at idle depending on what I had turned on in the cab. In fact, had I turned the lights on it might have gone down to 11.0 volts since I don't have a headlight relay on BB yet, so the headlight load comes from the cab. And to me voltages like that say "There's a problem!"
Personally, I want to know what the battery voltage is, and the way to find that out is to run the volt meter's lead out to the battery.
