Bill - Thanks for the clarification. I knew that but forgot. In fact, I toyed with going that way at one point but found that port-injection manifolds aren't available for the M-block. You can use a Cleveland intake and the requisite spacers and drill the spacers for the injectors, but that didn't thrill me. However, since Tim is making a Cleveland manifold now I've asked that he consider changing the dimensions to fit the M-block, so maybe one will be available some day.

 

[QUOTEI talked to a mechanic several years ago about the E4OD, he said Ford finished all the worthwhile upgrades after 1995-96. He said he always buys a Ford remanufactured E4OD when he puts one in because they are all upgraded to the 95+ specs, and because they have a good warranty.
][/QUOTE]

Whenever Ford switched to the 4R100 (basically that same tranny as E4OD) the tranny was built with a steel 6 pinion planetary gear instead of the aluminum 4 pinion planet found in the E4OD (was a weak point). Also I believe the 4R100 had a more HD sunshell and rear sprag. All of these parts are interchangeable.

ZF5 is a better transmission that the New Venture 4500. The NV had a few design flaws. One of them being that the jam nut for the main shaft was threaded in the direction that the centrifugal force would cause them to back off. When that jam nut comes loose it frags the whole transmission. Also, the OD on the NV4500 isn't suitable for towing. I saw a many that got so hot the gear mesh was wiped right off of the gear. I had a buddy that sat at a bench and built 25 of them a week. He was never caught up and always behind. Almost like painting the Golden Gate Bridge. it was a job for life Lol.

 

Does said buddy build E4OD's? Or, does his mentor?

 

I know a couple of guys that could probably do it. Lauren builds them on the side, but you don't want to take it where he works. His boss is a crook. He works there because the man pays him really well.He doesn't do the sales. The crook does.

Also, Gil my new neighbor has rebuilt every Chevy Transmission made. There aren't many differences between them and he is as honest as the day is long. He prides himself in doing good work. He would be my first choice.

There is another guy named Charlie that did my E4OD in a truck that I don't have anymore. He is a Ford guy and has done auto tranny rebuilding for 30 years. He is the one that showed me the E4OD is almost the same tranny as the 4R100. Let me see if I can find him. He was working at HHH Transmissions.

 

If you know someone that can build one better than new then I might be interested. Just exploring the possibilities.

 

Lauren builds them for $350 in labor. You buy the parts. A consultation would be necessary before deciding what parts to buy and maybe even a tear down would be necessary before parts are bought. I am sure these guys are close to each other on labor.

 

I built one for a shop in Hampton a number of years ago. When it was done and they reinstalled it their guy (who didn't want to touch it) said it was the best working E4OD he had ever driven. One of the things I do with mine, I can tailor the lock/unlock on the converter clutch to where I want it. I have mine set where it takes 80% throttle to unlock. There is also a pressure setting during upshift/downshift to make sure it doesn't slip. Heat is what kills these, the torque converter can actually get the fluid hot enough to boil and puke it out the vent which is inside the converter housing so it looks like the front seal is blown.

FWIW, mine will tow a pretty good load in OD at 1500 rpm @ 55 mph. Coming up the CBBT tunnels, it would drop to 3rd, windmill the engine to 2700 rpm which is what I used to get @ 55 with the C6, TCC re-engaged and dropped the rpm to 2200. Same thing when I towed great niece's Escape with the blown engine over Afton Mountain on I-64, only that was closer to 70 mph.

 

I don't see Dad's truck towing much, although it will be capable. That's different than when I was planning the build, but when I started this I didn't have either Blue or Big Blue, and Dad's truck wouldn't be rated to handle nearly as much as either of them regardless of the engine or transmission.

So, what I'm wanting now is to make it more like a Lightning, meaning a nimble truck that is fun to drive. Basically the only thing that doesn't fit with that plan is the ZF5 - unless I'm mistaken. So, I'm looking for an auto and the C6 ain't it. That leaves the E4OD, and it fits the bill pretty well.

Given that, it becomes a question of how much it is going to cost, and that's a function of how serious the build has to be. If I can get one built for $350 to $500 in labor plus parts and controller, then that shouldn't be a problem. Yes, I'll have to shorten the rear shaft and lengthen the front, or have new ones made and sell the new ones I have, but that won't be too bad either. And it makes Dad's truck much more available or usable to my offspring.

Bill - Does the Baumann controller allow setting it up like you've done, meaning the amount of slip?

Brandon - Who is Lauren? Did I miss that?

 

Gary, I will have to research the Baumann unit, mine is all done in the PCM and the transmission tables are pretty involved.

 

If you don't mind I'd appreciate it. I'd like your opinion since you know what you did and what you are looking for. Thanks in advance.

 

Ok, I will see what I can find.

 

Baumann is now dealing as USshift.com and has a nice looking unit called the Quick4 for the E4OD for just about any engine and control system mechanical injected diesel, EFI, carbureted. It even has a manushift option where you can shift it up or down with steering wheel buttons or paddles. It uses either an output shaft speed sensor (4R100) or the speedometer cable speed sensor and does have a 4WD feature where you can compensate for low range.

 

Ok folks, my bad. I got things going in this thread about Dad's transmission, but would like to shift it to Dad's Truck Build. Sorry for the confusion. And, thanks for the help.

Bill - I replied to your post on that thread.

And, now for an update on Big Blue. First, I got lucky as the alternator appears to be dead. I pulled the wire off between it and the battery and the wire is fine, but the battery voltage was 12.2V when I check it this morning and it won't come up. So, I say I got lucky as I ran with the headlights on all the way up there, meaning 2 hours and the alternator was working then. But it failed on the way home in the daylight.

Second, I checked and the DS module is getting the "crank" signal. And, the one that was plugged in says Motorcraft, so I would assume it would be doing the retard - right?

Last, I found oil drops on the pavement under the transmission/rear of the engine. My first thought was the rear main, even though my memory says Vernon had it replaced after the rebuild. But, when I slid under to pull the wire off the alternator I found things a bit of a mess, and it is quite consistent with a front main seal leak from my experience. But, what do y'all think?

Replacing that just requires pulling the pulley and balancer - right?

 

Might want to look into why the outermost belt is twisted too.

 

Good catch! It looks like it is almost upside down?