Big Blue
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Gary, the choke heater on the 460 uses 7 volts from the S terminal of the 2G alternator, I believe the 3G still has an S lead it just isn't normally used for anything. The charge indicator light for the 3G is pretty damned accurate, both times (once on Darth and once on the Taurus) I have had an alternator failure the charge light has been on showing the failed alternator. Darth has a voltmeter, the Taurus only the light.
On a 3G, the white/black wire from the small plug into the larger one is the S lead, you can add a pigtail from the 2G harness to that and plug your choke in. I can post a picture of the Taurus alternator circuit if it will help. BTW, the 3.8L one fits nicely and is a 130 amp unit.
On a 3G, the white/black wire from the small plug into the larger one is the S lead, you can add a pigtail from the 2G harness to that and plug your choke in. I can post a picture of the Taurus alternator circuit if it will help. BTW, the 3.8L one fits nicely and is a 130 amp unit.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,171
Likes: 1,173
Is it like an older system where the bulb has has battery voltage on one side and alternator output on the other? If all is working well, both sides have full system voltage. Without any voltage difference, the bulb stays off to say all is theoretically good. With this type, the bulb can illuminate dimly with a partial failure of the alternator.
Or is it the type of indicator driven by a status monitor within the voltage regulator? In this type, if the monitor is happy with the alternator output, the bulb is commanded off. If the monitor is not happy, the bulb is commanded on. The bulb is either on or off, nothing in between.
The reason I ask is the latter on/off style can have a unique problem. In some cases, the regulator can fail completely and kill the alternator output, and unfortunately lose the capability to turn on the fault light, too. I've had this happen on two different vehicles.
Just something to keep in mind if that's how the 3G works. If not, just ignore my crackpot ideas, as usual.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Like i said, the charge indicator lamp is in the 3G 'excite' wire. (With a 512 ohm resistor in parallel)
There is a fuse that can fail, and that would cause the alternator not to charge.
But then the light would not come on koeo.
There is a fuse that can fail, and that would cause the alternator not to charge.
But then the light would not come on koeo.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Bill - Big Blue has been upgraded to an Edelbrock carb, so needs 12v for the choke. I could use the field voltage to pull in a relay to give that, but why not use the 12v from the fuel pump relay?
kr98664 - I think a bulb has a much higher probability of getting the driver's attention than an ammeter does, so even if it has a potential for failure I want to go with it.
kr98664 - I think a bulb has a much higher probability of getting the driver's attention than an ammeter does, so even if it has a potential for failure I want to go with it.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Gary, I have run both carter and Holley 12V electric chokes from the 7V stator feed with no problems If you use the fuel pump feed you will most likely need to increase the fuse size.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
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Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Trial and error probably. You can take a page from Ford's book and strap the heater supply hose across the choke cover, slows the opening rate and keeps it off or reheats it fast. Believe me, 865 lbs of cast iron and 22 qts of coolant take a while to heat up or cool down. I can get Darth warmed up, leave him for a couple of hours, even more sometimes and get back in and have heat pretty quickly.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I think I have BB's choke tuned pretty closely right now. It starts instantly cold and doesn't seem to bog since I adjusted it, although I haven't driven it much as the alternator was out.
And, speaking of starting, I noticed on Thursday that it didn't kick back when I started it when warm. Either changing to the other DSII module on the fender brought the retard function into play or it just hadn't gotten warm enough to do it. We will see soon as I plan to drive it some this week. Or, maybe the battery wasn't really charged? I put a charger on it and brought it all the way up, so....
And, speaking of starting, I noticed on Thursday that it didn't kick back when I started it when warm. Either changing to the other DSII module on the fender brought the retard function into play or it just hadn't gotten warm enough to do it. We will see soon as I plan to drive it some this week. Or, maybe the battery wasn't really charged? I put a charger on it and brought it all the way up, so....
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
The only times I really had any problem with Darth was pulling the trailer in real hot weather, wouldn't kick back, but sure dragged sometimes. After I put the PMGR one on, no problems except when the battery died of old age. He would just start on a cold crank, then would be good until sitting overnight.