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A) Yes the plastic bush is 7526, but I think you will find that in reality it has four fingers and no retaining pin.
The stud it fits over points to the transmission tunnel
If it has been driven for long without the plastic, the firewall side of the stud will be grooved and the bush will fail instantly.
A four finger plastic retainer bushing can be found in the Dorman/Help section of your LAP in an assortment of windshield linkage bushings
Aftermarket master cylinders do have an adjustable pushrod.
B) That stud in the back of the head is on the passenger side?
If that's the case (and the heads were swapped) it would be part of the power steering pump mount.
Almost as if the firewall pinch weld and the area is a little distorted....
C) The header pipe definitely needs more room.
If it were me, I'd take it off and flatten it in the press or with a sledge hammer.
I do not think a washer or two will gain enough room as the engine torques
Good pic. But, if I pull the nut on the stud and jack the engine up might I get to the bolts? Or, might I be able to get the stud out of the perch enough to get a washer under it?
And, you may be right on the stud. I'm hoping to cut it off with a hacksaw.
Nuts, there are two per side. One of the issues is the offset in the frame. BTW, getting a socket and even a breaker bar in the right (pass.) side is a royal PITA, nuts are 18mm. I agree with the idea of a slotted plate you can slip in each side. Dirty trick since Big Blue is a MT truck, take the two 10mm head bolts that hold the radiator to the upper support, then the fan will lift it as you jack and not over stretch the hoses, lower radiator mounts are slide in with rubber pads.
kr98664 - Good ideas! I like the slotted plate idea, a bunch. It'll be a bit before I can try this, but I think I have a plan. I'll use Bill's picture to come up with some dimensions - unless he can take some measurements. But, it looks like a single-piece plate will either need to be a tall U or an E, depending on the direction I think I can get the plate in from. Or, it may need to be a pair of smaller U's.
Jim - Thanks. If things are grooved maybe I can use an Oilite bushing? As for the stud, it is now on the driver's side. And, I agree that the pinch weld looks odd. But, I don't agree on pulling the header w/o trying to shim the engine. That sounds like WORK!
Bill - This is on the driver's side, so maybe there's enough room to work? And, that dirty trick is a good idea. Thanks!
But, is there a reason to shim both sides? Can I just tilt the engine slightly?
Gary, it torques toward the passenger side, I would do both, You will probably have to adjust the fan shroud for clearance afterwards. If the header is hitting the frame low down, I would do the passenger side only. Now you see what Jim and I have to deal with on the tight fit, the extra length and width makes just about anything you do on these interesting. Be glad all the emission stuff is gone, getting anywhere on the back of the engine was very difficult with the air pipe and removing a valve cover, you prayed the tubes would unscrew from the manifolds.
Actually, this one didn't have "emissions stuff". It is an over 8500 GVWR so was exempt.
But, the header that hits is on the driver's side - #6 to be exact. And it is touching when the engine isn't running. So shimming the passenger's side makes it worse instead of better. That's why I'm thinking to just shim the driver's side only.
Or, loosen the nuts on the driver's side, jack it up, put a block between the header and perch, and then drop the engine.
And last, I cleaned half of the underside of the hood. Can't remember which side I cleaned. But, the stuff that came off was oil. I did determine that the PCV system is working, so this appears to be more proof of a front main leak leak.
That looks good, Gary. What cleaning agent did you use and how was it applied?
Simple Green from a spray bottle, at about 25% with water, and lots of blue paper towels. Next time I'll wear plastic gloves as the stuff coming off was awful.
Gary, your truck most *definitely* DID have "emission stuff"
A.I.R. pumps, a thermactor tube and the 'spider' logs feeding the exhaust manifolds.
Over 8500 gvw did not require a Catalytic Converter, in large part because the air pump was burning off HC by feeding fresh air directly after the exhaust ports.
I would do what you can to oval that pipe.
I hate headers that dont fit....
Gary, your truck most *definitely* DID have "emission stuff"
A.I.R. pumps, a thermactor tube and the 'spider' logs feeding the exhaust manifolds.
Over 8500 gvw did not require a Catalytic Converter, in large part because the air pump was burning off HC by feeding fresh air directly after the exhaust ports.
I would do what you can to oval that pipe.
I hate headers that dont fit....
Jim, damn right it did, should have looked similar to mine and yours.
Gary, look at some of the pictures in the Darth Vader thread, or here are some for you:
No emissions?
Note all the plumbing, there is a bundle of plastic lines under the air pump lines.
Rear air control valve, feeds air to 6 of the 8 exhaust ports (none at crossover due to EGR).
Ok guys, I need some help. This is my first hydraulic clutch linkage and I don't understand what I have. Here's what I've done:
Replaced the bushing between the clutch pedal and the pushrod into the master. See below for a pic. There was a very slight movement before I did that which indicated the bushing was worn. So I made a precision-fit one out of Oilite and that took all of the discernable slack out - at that point in the linkage.
Measured the overall slack at the pedal - 2 3/4" before the clutch release arm starts to move, which is the point at which you can feel a bit of resistance on the pedal.
Measured the firewall movement - 1/32". So, I'm guessing the firewall isn't cracked.
Bled the slave cylinder and got some air out, but that didn't change the slack at the pedal whatsoever.
Checked the master, again, and it still has the same amount of fluid in it. But, then I realized it has some sort of a "bag" in it, and all of the fluid is in it.
So, why a bag to hold the fluid? Shouldn't there be fluid in the master itself? Here's the bag:
And, for future reference, here's a pic of the bushing that was in there as well as the one I made. (I did clean the new bushing up before installing it. That's literally straight out of the lathe.) The dimensions of it are:
OD: .500", and that is the biggest it can be or it won't go in the rod
ID: .425" and that's basically the smallest it can be or you won't get it over the pin on the clutch arm
Length: .390" and that is the max it can be or you won't get the pin in to retain it
Looks like the "bag" normally sits in the cap? and somehow got stuck down there and someone filled that up by mistake instead of filling the reservoir under it? Just my guess.
But, the stuff that came off was oil. I did determine that the PCV system is working, so this appears to be more proof of a front main leak leak. 
