Big Blue
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Well, you caught me. 
I know exactly why that belt is twisted. That's because it didn't like sharing the pulley with my DVM's leads. Some dummy left them dangling a bit too close to the fan blades, and then hit the starter. It took several minutes to unwind said leads from the fan, but nothing was damaged - except my pride. 
I know exactly why that belt is twisted. That's because it didn't like sharing the pulley with my DVM's leads. Some dummy left them dangling a bit too close to the fan blades, and then hit the starter. It took several minutes to unwind said leads from the fan, but nothing was damaged - except my pride.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 106
Likes: 1
From: Arizona
Nice looking truck! To me, people who are taking time to restore something like this see value where others don't. The ability to see that value & do something (if able) is a big deal to me. In a throw-away society where it seems like most people would just rather buy something new (not anything wrong in itself) than fix what they have is one of our society's failures.
Good luck with your projects & thank you for all the good information that you generously give to the rest of us.
Good luck with your projects & thank you for all the good information that you generously give to the rest of us.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,099
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From: Northern Indiana USA
Now I know better.....
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Gary, on the alternator, look at the wiring remembering my opinion of the crack heads at Ford who designed that system. Fusible links can and will fail from age. Oil leaks, timing cover gasket or front seal, looks sort of normal for a 460.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Telestar - Thanks! This truck is solid, stout, and has more documentation with it than any truck I've seen. It deserves to be "restored", although I'm not going to do it as a frame-off.
Maytag - I'll be sure and put a huge cooler on Dad's truck. And, keep the clutches from slipping.
Bill - This alternator is wired directly to the battery. No fuses involved, although I think that needs to be changed. But, are you telling me that I should expect a 460 to puke all over everything?
Maytag - I'll be sure and put a huge cooler on Dad's truck. And, keep the clutches from slipping.
Bill - This alternator is wired directly to the battery. No fuses involved, although I think that needs to be changed. But, are you telling me that I should expect a 460 to puke all over everything?
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 387
Likes: 2
From: Las Cruces NM
Gary, what ever happened to Rusty? I notice it missing from your sig.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
OK, I get that the module is properly connected, but are you sure that TDC on the damper is TDC #1?
It's not making sense to me that a $$$ gear reduction starter should be kicking back or struggling to turn a mild engine over.
It's not making sense to me that a $$$ gear reduction starter should be kicking back or struggling to turn a mild engine over.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
Have I missed the post where you put the DVM on the positive stud of the alt to see if it was doing its thing?
I know you tried feeding the 460 a sacrificial DVM in hopes that would please it and in return expecting the charging issue to go away.
I know you tried feeding the 460 a sacrificial DVM in hopes that would please it and in return expecting the charging issue to go away.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Jim, I agree with checking, between the oil leaks and age, I would question the balancer's accuracy.
Gary, if you pull the timing cover, go ahead and replace the chain set with the EFI set, it is a roller and straight up. If the "hatchet" (external counterweight) is grooved where the seal rides, I have an extra one. If the A/C has not been converted to R134, it does so quite well, I had done Darth not long after R134 became readily available and was pretty cheap. I used a red orifice tube, but Darth is a crew cab and heat + humidity around SE VA can be murderous in August.
Gary, if you pull the timing cover, go ahead and replace the chain set with the EFI set, it is a roller and straight up. If the "hatchet" (external counterweight) is grooved where the seal rides, I have an extra one. If the A/C has not been converted to R134, it does so quite well, I had done Darth not long after R134 became readily available and was pretty cheap. I used a red orifice tube, but Darth is a crew cab and heat + humidity around SE VA can be murderous in August.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Jim - I haven't, yet, checked TDC. And that is suspect since I installed the pointer when I got the truck. But, I checked the crank signal to the DS module because it was easy and I already had the sacrificial DVM there to check battery voltage.
Brandon - I didn't put the DVM on the post of the alternator. But I did pull the wire that goes from the alternator to the battery and confirmed that it is solid. And when I reinstalled it I confirmed that there was battery voltage on the wire. So, essentially I did put the meter there, and the only thing the alternator does is go round and round.
Bill - This is a new engine with less than 2000 mikes on it. The balancer is new, as is the timing set. I don't remember the brand of it, but probably have the receipts, although Vernon spec'd good stuff so I don't have any worries there. But, the front main seal can be replaced without pulling the timing cover - right?
On the A/C, it was converted and worked last summer if I understood Vernon correctly. But the compressor doesn't come in now, so it is probably down on pressure.
Brandon - I didn't put the DVM on the post of the alternator. But I did pull the wire that goes from the alternator to the battery and confirmed that it is solid. And when I reinstalled it I confirmed that there was battery voltage on the wire. So, essentially I did put the meter there, and the only thing the alternator does is go round and round.
Bill - This is a new engine with less than 2000 mikes on it. The balancer is new, as is the timing set. I don't remember the brand of it, but probably have the receipts, although Vernon spec'd good stuff so I don't have any worries there. But, the front main seal can be replaced without pulling the timing cover - right?
On the A/C, it was converted and worked last summer if I understood Vernon correctly. But the compressor doesn't come in now, so it is probably down on pressure.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
I'm going to see if it is under warranty and if the warranty applies to me. If not I'll probably have it rebuilt, or rebuild it myself if it is an easy fix. I'm wondering if the oil from the front main seal leak has coated the slip ring.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Bill - This is a new engine with less than 2000 mikes on it. The balancer is new, as is the timing set. I don't remember the brand of it, but probably have the receipts, although Vernon spec'd good stuff so I don't have any worries there. But, the front main seal can be replaced without pulling the timing cover - right?
More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 585
Likes: 11
Yes. You'll have to pull the balancer off first, then remove the key from the crankshaft and slide the counterweight off. As I remember the keyways for the balancer and weight aren't aligned so you have to remove the outer key first. Before you pull anything apart though I'd spray it all off with some brake cleaner and run it a little more to make absolutely sure that's where the leak is coming from.