If you do the ZF swap, the pressure plate for the ZF clutch will not bolt to the '85 flywheel because it uses a larger diameter bolt pattern. You'll either have to find a newer flywheel or have yours drilled and tapped to match it.

 

I have the 460 flywheel that came with the ZF, so that part should be covered. But, I wasn't aware that the pattern changed. But, why can't I use a ZF clutch disc with the existing flywheel and pressure plate?

 

Yup... I think you should do it.

 

I personally love a manual shift truck, but I guess it's a decision you'll have to make. If it's rebuilt and sitting there, then, why not? I know that 460 needs all the help it can get in the mpg dept.

And, you're right about the truck trans shifting slow. ZF's are great and robust like a NP 435, but quick shifting they're not. I'm planning on a T5 transplant on my '81, but that's a different animal than BB.

I guess you have to ask what ultimately you see the role BB will fill. Of course, it will be a great tow vehicle, but you already have that with your newer 3.5 Ecoboost truck. It will be interesting to follow regardless.

 

I believe the ZF uses a larger diameter disc. That's why the bolt pattern is different too, because the pressure plate is larger it moves the bolts out farther toward the edges of the flywheel. Here's a pic comparing the clutches from when I did my swap. The T19 is on the left, ZF on the right.

 

Jim - When I had the new '72 F250 with a 390/C6 combo I thought I really wanted a manual tranny. And when I got into Bullnoses I revived that interest - especially with the poor MPG they all got. Dad's truck was getting 10 MPG with a tired 351M/C6 combo, but then I acquired Rusty and his built 351M/NP435 combo got 13 MPG, although the shifting was slow and you had to be careful to synchronize the throttle and the clutch just right or there was a big "cliunk". But I chalked the shifting up to the NP being badly worn out and the clunk to everything else being worn as well.

So, I just knew a manual tranny, especially one with OD, was the answer for Dad's. And, with a lot of work I installed a well used ZF5 and Rusty's engine in Dad's truck and the MPG went up to 15 if the speed was kept down to 65 MPH. At that point I had what I thought I had wanted all along, but the shifting was slow and I still had a big clunk sometimes when shifting.

Now I have Big Blue with a T-19 and it's shifting is slow and it has a clunk when shifting if it isn't done just right. So, I'm starting to get the picture that truck transmissions are just slow to shift and that with all the worn mechanicals the clunk is normal. Perhaps it is just that all three of the transmissions I've had were worn out, especially the synchros, and that made them really slow to shift. And the clunk may be due to slop in the driveline or something hitting like the headers on it Blue.

So, my fear is that I'll get Dad's truck together and not like the ZF in it, even though it has been completely rebuilt. I'm expecting that truck to be like new in the way it drives, and want it to have a more modern, smooth feel than what I've found with all of the the other Bullnoses I've driven. Given that, I'd been questioning the use of the ZF for some time - especially since my son can't even drive a manual, and who knows how many of my grandkids will be able to. Then, along comes Big Blue, literally screaming for a ZF, and I'm wondering if that's the right use of the one I have.

 

Rowdy - That makes sense. So I should be able to use the flywheel that came with the ZF, but should put a new clutch kit in to ensure I don't have to go back in very soon.

So, what did you think of the T19 to ZF5 swap? Is your ZF fairly healthy and does it still shift slowly? Do you have clunks if the shifting isn't done smoothly?

 

Hey Gary,

Say I got one of those Odyseey Batteries. They require some special charging conditions and exhibit certain charge characteristics. I think the documentation might be in the Battery folder or maybe elsewhere. I can't remember exactly where I saw the data last. I went with Odyseey cause thats the battery the Military around here uses and I figured if the Military is using it its got to be pretty good (or the military is getting ripped off and way overpaying for the thing... seen that plenty of times in my work)

Anyway, I got it in my mind there is a limit to the charging voltage that these batteries like...

Have fun

nonrev

 

I will check that out. Thanks!

 

Hey Gary,

Note para C, billet point 3, Alternator requirments.

http://www.odysseybattery.com/docume...-ODY-WS-AA.pdf

 

Gary, that makes sense about doing Dad's truck up with an OD auto. I think driving manual transmissions in general, and truck/granny low in particular is getting to be a lost skill. Shoot, you can't even buy a new truck with one anymore - except for heavy trucks of course. It's a running joke, but I think a 3 on the tree car/truck is better theft deterrent than most modern systems.

BB with a ZF would be a great combo. I bought a new '96 F250 4x4 351W ZF - it's one of those I wish I had not sold - but anyway, with the ZF new, it shifted great IMO, but still was no T5 or toploader. I don't know if there are shift improvement/aftermarket shifters for the ZF, but that would only address the throw I'd think. The ZF is what it is, but certainly a fresh one should do better than one with a lot of miles on it.

 

I love mine. The only problem I've had with it is reverse is a little weak. I wasn't able to drive the truck it was pulled from so I took my chances and put it in as-is. All forward gears work perfectly but reverse is a little tricky at times, it will sometimes not full engage and pop back out. I've grown used to it so it doesn't bother me and I only drive the truck as a toy so it sees maybe 800 miles a year at the most...not worth tearing it out again when I'm already familiar with this little quirk. If it was a forward gear kicking back I wouldn't tolerate it though. As far as shifting speed...I drive it like a truck so I'm not slamming gears like a race car. I think I remember reading somewhere that there is a short throw shifter available for them but I don't think its that bad. I've never noticed any clunking with mine.

I documented my swap in this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-pictures.html

I wanted everything to look original so I reused my original floor cover and custom made my own shifter to match the T19. I also reused the original T19 shifter boot. I eventually changed the insert with the shift pattern inside the shifter **** too. It still has the correct T19 **** with the ZF insert.

 

What do people do for a steering column and gear indicator when swapping a E4OD into a bullnose truck?

Re: Zf swaps, yes the 12.25" disc is bigger than the T-19 pressure plate so you need the flywheel.

 

Something doesn't seem right about that tranny in your link. I don't know what it is, but I do know I have followed the diesel competitors for years and the built E4OD's and 4R100's are expensive. The one in the link is priced about what a normal E4OD would cost as an OEM replacement.

I think it would be worth looking into in the FTE section where the tranny builders hang out. I have always heard the E4OD is built off of the C6 design. A factory C6 will handle 500 HP.

 

Wouldn't an AOD indicator work?

Then again I think the E4OD trucks only have P R N OD 2 1. Now they do have the switch on the end of the shifter that locks and unlocks the convertor. So a regular C6 indicator would work it just would show D instead of OD.