Yeah, I would want to do that that kind of stuff fairly soon, before internal corrosion becomes a problem.

 

I bet Gary has already completed most of this, Chris!

 

You're going to pull the intake to check which heads are on it???

Just drive the darn thing.

 

No! I'm not going to! (Not going to pull the intake.) I am just going to drive it.

But, I need some help. Was scoping out the place for the fuel pressure regulator and found the thing below. I'm assuming it is part of the hot fuel setup with some kind of an oriface to return some of the fuel to the tank. Right? I'll check the illustrations on my web site, but thought y'all might be able to answer the question more quickly.

 

Yep, vapor separator.

Can you see if it has a red, white or blue paint dot on it?
Denotes different orifice sizes.

 

And, now for the update: Got the engine well and truly drained and put the Royal Purple filter on and 6 qts of Brad Penn 10W-40 semi-synthetic in. Then I installed the timing pointer that Vernon supplied and turned the engine by hand to #1's TDC. Pulled the distributor, spun the oil pump, and got 19 psi on the gauge, holding it for 30 seconds. Then I re-installed the distributor.

That done I fogged the cylinders with CRC's Engine Stor and turned it over, by hand, for about 3 revolutions. And, I put the old plugs back in as I don't have new ones and don't want to leave it open overnight.

Tomorrow I'll install the fuel pressure regulator, pull the top of the carb to inspect it, and then fire it up!

 

I'll check it tomorrow. Thanks. I'm sure I want to put the regulator after that - right?

 

If you have a return regulator just eliminate it and plumb the regulator in.

With today's ethanol fuels the little screen inside tends to get gummed up anyhow.

 

I don't know what is up over the skid plate, but Vernon has all the stuff to turn this into a mechanical system, including an Edelbrock pump and even the eccentric if it is needed. So, I'm not sure I want to do more than just install this regulator and see what I have. See any problem with that?

 

No.

It obviously isn't obstructed (yet)

I'm assuming that the 'Hot Fuel Handling' oil pressure relay has been eliminated because there's a mechanical gauge or something hooked up?
​​​​​​​You should really find a way to stop the pump when the engine stops.

 

Actually, both the mechanical and electric gauge is hooked up. But, where does the switch for the relay go? Is it in addition to the standard sending unit?

 

It Tees off beneath the regular sending unit at the very back of the intake manifold.

Subford has great pictures of this, as well as his own (full color) wiring diagrams of the Hot Fuel Handling system(s) ... Yes, there are variants.

 

Trigger the pump relay with the stator wire instead of 'hot in run and crank'

 

I agree on triggering it with the stator wire, but will have to see if the 140 amp alternator has one. As for the oil pressure switch, the tee is being used to feed the aftermarket mechanical pressure gauge.

However, you may have triggered a thought/realization on my part. I put my DVM on what I thought was the oil pressure sending unit today while spinning the oil pump. I was puzzled why it showed infinity before I spun the pump, but chalked it up to the range I had the DVM in. But, IIRC, the range of the sending units is 12 - 72 ohm and my meter would obviously have seen that. So, it is a switch!

I have a lot of investigation to do, but want to prove that the truck is solid before I get in much deeper. Then, if it is, I will determine how it is wired and what I have and figure out whether to keep the electric pump(s) or go mechanical.

Subford? Do you have a link to his info?

 

@subford hangs out mostly in the 87-96 area, let's ping him and see if he'll stop by.