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I still question the fuel separator to work as it should pointing up & down and not side to side with the side fitting at the top.
I think what you have said of removing the fuel separator and running a fuel regulator with a return to keep fuel moving would be the way to go.
Dave ----
Ahh, yes, it bolted on in place of the tandem booster and cast iron cylinder. On the lines, Big Ugly was a 1990 so had RWAL and the corresponding hydraulics, I simply used a double flare union in place of it, the other part, I eliminated the valve block and switch on the frame, replaced the left front hose with one for a 1990 and used the front cross line from the 1990. I had the MC to front bake and RWAL unit lines from the 1990 truck.
You could probably leave the valve on the frame, but the newer trucks use a fluid level sensor instead of the differential pressure switch. I did a lot of research on caliper piston sizes, MC bore sizes and rear wheel cyl sizes before I did that. I think from what I remember, the function of the MC is backwards from the iron one, meaning the rear brakes are the rear part of the MC if I remember correctly.
Like I said, some of that foil covered sleeve would probably be a big help preventing vapor lock.
Gary, you are mistaken about the inertia switch.
It DOES handle the full load of the fuel pumps.
It is the oil pressure cutoff that pulls the relay shut.
(go back and have a look at Subford's schematics)
Just getting the PM.
Let me take a pic for you in the AM
Jim - That sounds like a huge mistake on someone's part. And, probably lots of denial?
We all know Dearborn is watching us, but YES.
TI made the switches to Ford's engineering spec's. (with a diaphragm that became brittle after years of under hood heat and submerged in glycol)
And then, the first set of fused harnesses were not fused on the powered side.
A LOT of people thought "I've already had that stupid recall done" ?!?!?
Jim - You are right, I am wrong. See the schematic below. I guess the only thing they've done, besides the relay, is losing the .75 ohm resistance wire. But, I'm not sure how much difference that would make.
Jim, it changed in 1987 then, Gary's picture is from my 1986 EVTM. Ford was changing the electric pump system every year I think. 1986 was the first without the tank selector relay as far as I know. The 6 port selector valve is only powered on those if the pump power is on, you can turn the key on and change tanks and nothing happens until you either crank the engine or it is already running.
Yes I know that it changed when the new dash got the selector switch on the left with the wipers and lights.
I was just pointing out how much it changed year to year.
(Speaking of... I missed the sign tonight on the way home)
Coasting in gear i can usually regain prime.
Yes, Bob was right - "the times they are a-changing", especially in the mid-80's.
On the insulation, I like black the least as it will, obviously, absorb radiant energy. So, reflective is good - if you can keep it clean. Looks like I'd better replace that front main.
And, I plan to put the stock wiring back in service, so the resistor will be in place as well.
My truck was originally a 351W automatic before I swapped in the 460 so I never had the hot fuel option. I used a mechanical pump and never had any trouble with vapor lock until about three years ago. I ended up using this stuff on the lines in the engine bay:
The silver stuff reflects up to 90% radiant heat compared to only 60% on the black.
But, the problem persisted. I eventually started carrying a plastic soda bottle filled with gasoline behind the seat because every time it would quit the only way I could get it running again was by pulling the lid off the air cleaner and priming the carburetor. Finally I replaced the fuel pump and wrapped it with this stuff:
I was just thinking...I have three '86 F-250 trucks with 460s. Two of them running, one for parts. All three of them have dual tanks and mechanical pumps with an extra return fitting on the pump itself, plus they use a six port switching valve inside the frame. This is the pump they use:
There is no in tank electric pump and no vapor separator on any of those and they are all factory original. I've only seen the vapor separator used on trucks with the factory electric pumps.
Rowdy - Thanks for the recommendation on the insulation. That's pretty much what I am looking at.
On the pump, Vernon was planning on going with a mechanical unit so there's an Edelbrock 1726 in the stack of parts. But there are also the proper in-tank pump/sending unit combos. So, I'm torn - the simplicity of the mechanical pump or the cool-fuel approach of the electric pump.
However, I didn't realize that the 6-port switch could be used with a mechanical pump. Although, now that I look at the wiring I see that it is motorized and doesn't need the pressure from the pump to change tanks. Hmmmmm......
