Dave - I do have the separator, as shown below. The issue is that it appears to have been relocated to a place where it will absorb radiant heat from the headers, which reduces its effectiveness. So, I'm thinking of solutions. One is to put a heat shield between the separator and the heat source. Another is to relocate the separator to a point where it won't get the heat. Yet another is to replace the separator with the return-style regulator, and put it where it won't get baked. And others will come to me - and y'all.

 

Yep, betwixt the distributor and the coil...
Subford posted the three orifice sizes and color codes along with his Hot Fuel Handling schematics.
Some of that reflective insulation sleeve might be a good idea on the fuel line if you find vapor lock is an issue.

 

Bill - I've been discussing brake flushing/bleeding tools with Benztechnc on this thread. And the adapter I thought I needed to seal to the master cylinder would fit the cast iron masters. But, I just noticed in the following pic that the master is plastic and has a round lid. Is that Darth? If so, might I be able to use a similar master cylinder on Big Blue?

 

Yes, but that was after I started the upgrade process, that is a 1993-97 W/cruise MC. If you look you also notice the polygroove belt a not plumbed in MAP sensor above the A/C and a few other oddities.

 

What did you have to do to adapt the later M/C?

 

My '87 has that reservoir, but i do not have the fire prone 'cruise control' MC.

 

I used the booster from "Big Ugly" the 1990 F-250 parts donor truck and installed the later MC because I wanted to use the 1993-97 cruise control.

Jim - the only fire hazard switches were the later models with the switch on the bottom of the MC and power on it at all times. Mine is the updated switch and on these trucks is only powered with the key on.

 

Gary, just a thought if that vapor thingy of yours is not parallel like the one picture and think stock it may not work at all, heat or no heat from headers.

I say this because of the filter I posted about. If it w a s not at 12 o'clock no fuel to carb.
Dave - - - -

 

My neighbor Ben had the switch on the front (end) of his master cylinder.

He had the original "fix" where Ford put the fuse on the *wrong side* of the kapton isolated deactivation switch.

The second series of harnesses is good.

You can see pictures of the aftermath on my Flickr.

 

So, did the booster from Big Ugly bolt on? In other words, can I use a later booster and M/C on Big Blue? Or, did you have to mod some things, like maybe the brake lines where they attach?

Dave - The separator is working well enough that there's gas to the carb. And, at some point, too much gas to the carb. However, I can't prove that there's gas flowing back to the tank unless I break into the return line.

Jim - That sounds like a huge mistake on someone's part. And, probably lots of denial?

 

Found somethings that may not be quite right. First are a couple of shots of the same thing, one from the top and one from the bottom, where you get to guess what the problem is. And, the distance in question isn't much as I can't get the first joint of my pointer finger between the parts, and I just measured it at 1/2". My guess is that just relocating the vapor separator will have little impact on the fuel temp.






And, then there's this. I know what it is, but someone spill the beans to the rest. The worry is that I see the same exact type of wire going to the front tank's connector - apparently bypassing the factory wiring and one essential component. However, said component couldn't possibly function as there's no oil pressure switch.

 

Gary, the last item is an inertia switch, it will trip in an accident, shutting off the fuel pump circuit. On the missing oil pressure switch, it is probably missing because one couldn't be found. If you want to put one back in the system, get a choke control switch for a 1987 Chrysler product with a 2.2L engine.

 

Yes, Bill, that's the rollover or inertia switch. It is apparently still in the system, but I'm pretty sure there's no fuel pump relay, so the inertia switch is carrying a lot more load than it was designed for. But, never fear, Vernon included a new relay and with a choke control switch (thanks, Bill) I should be able to get it put back stock.

But, no comment about the fuel lines, both supply and return, that are less than 1/2" from the header? That was the most worrying part of my finds today. The lines leave the tank selector valve as the fancy plastic stuff and changeover to metal, luckily, just prior to passing the header. Then they change to rubber for a short run to the separator. I'm thinking I'll run rubber lines up to the return-style regulator right in front of the carb, roughly where the stock one was. But, I'll insulate the lines with something to keep them as cool as possible.

Anyway, here's a shot of the fuel separator and the rubber lines leading to it, from the wheel well. You can see the metal-to-rubber changeover just right of the shock tower, and then the connection back to metal going into the fuel separator on the left.

 

Gary, mine ran right up on top of the frame, of course I have never had headers on a truck (my Thunderbird Special 312 in the 58 F-100 had 57 T-Bird exhaust manifolds). Having dealt with headers on my 64 Falcon and Shelby I don't really want the hassle on a truck.

 

I'm questioning the use of headers as well. I may have to find a pair of manifolds before I have a new exhaust system put on. That would solve the header-on-the-perch problem. But, these are L&L headers, which are the best you can buy, so I'd really like to keep them.

Back to the brake master - you didn't tell me how hard it was to adapt the later model booster/master to fit.