Bye Bye Front Drums
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
PM sent to ya.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I take it HIO is referencing the '78/'79 body.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 45
From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Got it, and sent the address + Muchos Gracias... Ordering the LH one now. Photos when they are installed.. Hope to be back home in Baja before T Day, and I have plenty to be thankful for.. Stay in the Funny Zone, laugh every day, live longer..
Baja
Baja
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
73/79 Styleside Dents (EXCEPT FOR F350 WITH 140" W.B.) without step bumper had inies D3TZ17787C and D3TZ17788C. And outies D3TZ17795B and D3TZ17796B. And now that I looked them up, yes , the Bronco ones are shorter. But you got something to add on too Hio to factory fit that contoured bumper.
"You said so yourself Hawkeye", once you can weld you look at metal in a different way.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Yep. I was also Steve. The 78/79 ones. On 78/79 Broncos the rear inner brackets were D8TZ17787A and D8TZ17788A. Outers were D8TZ17795A and D8TZ17796A.
73/79 Styleside Dents (EXCEPT FOR F350 WITH 140" W.B.) without step bumper had inies D3TZ17787C and D3TZ17788C. And outies D3TZ17795B and D3TZ17796B. And now that I looked them up, yes , the Bronco ones are shorter. But you got something to add on too Hio to factory fit that contoured bumper. "You said so yourself Hawkeye", once you can weld you look at metal in a different way.
73/79 Styleside Dents (EXCEPT FOR F350 WITH 140" W.B.) without step bumper had inies D3TZ17787C and D3TZ17788C. And outies D3TZ17795B and D3TZ17796B. And now that I looked them up, yes , the Bronco ones are shorter. But you got something to add on too Hio to factory fit that contoured bumper.
"You said so yourself Hawkeye", once you can weld you look at metal in a different way.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: Northern California
Ultrastranger, This is a little off topic from the current discussion but earlier in this thread you were discussing your booster/MC combo. Did your explorer MC fit on your f350 booster? I recently picked booth of these up and the holes in MC are a little narrow for the booster. Making them a little bigger isn't a problem, I just wondered if you ran into the same thing. Thanks!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Ultrastranger, This is a little off topic from the current discussion but earlier in this thread you were discussing your booster/MC combo. Did your explorer MC fit on your f350 booster? I recently picked booth of these up and the holes in MC are a little narrow for the booster. Making them a little bigger isn't a problem, I just wondered if you ran into the same thing. Thanks!
NAPA AUTO PARTS | PART DETAILS
Check to make sure the studs are perpendicular to the face of the booster and aren't slightly splayed out.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: Northern California
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On a very cold day in January, 2012, I pulled this electronically shifted Ford 4R70W 4-spd. automatic overdrive transmission from a 1998 3.8L V6 Mustang.
For over 3 years, it's been sitting quietly, off to the side in my shop, patiently waiting for some attention. I decided yesterday that today was the day to blow the dust and cob webs off of it and at least get it ready to begin the teardown process on it.
I made this holding fixture to hold the transmission on an engine stand, for the teardown/rebuild process.
I had to get the engine hoist out since trying to pick the transmission up and stab it onto the engine stand, by myself, would have been rather difficult.
This is the stock torque converter. I don't plan to re-use it since I have a brand new 2500 stall converter sitting in a box.
I made some torque converter installation/removal handles out of some long 3/8"-24 bolts, a couple of regular 3/8"-24 nuts and two 3/8"-24 coupling nuts. Even though I don't plan to use this torque converter, I didn't want to risk the stock converter getting dammage by it possibly slipping out of my hands and hitting the floor.
Transmission I.D. tag located on right side, just behind the bell housing.
There are two primary versions of this transmission. One is designed to fit 'Windsor' style blocks: this includes 240/300, mid-'65-'68 289, all 302/5.0L, 351W/5.8L , 351C, 3.8L V6 and 4.2L V6 engines. The other 4R70W is designed for 4.6L/5.4L Modular Ford engine blocks. --the bell housings are integral and do not unbolt.
In the following photo, I have two arrows pointing to the bolt holes for the starter. If there are (2) starter bolt holes, the transmission is compatible with a 'Windsor' style block pattern.
If there are (3) starter bolt holes, the 4R is for a 4.6L/5.4L engine.
For over 3 years, it's been sitting quietly, off to the side in my shop, patiently waiting for some attention. I decided yesterday that today was the day to blow the dust and cob webs off of it and at least get it ready to begin the teardown process on it.
I made this holding fixture to hold the transmission on an engine stand, for the teardown/rebuild process.
I had to get the engine hoist out since trying to pick the transmission up and stab it onto the engine stand, by myself, would have been rather difficult.
This is the stock torque converter. I don't plan to re-use it since I have a brand new 2500 stall converter sitting in a box.
I made some torque converter installation/removal handles out of some long 3/8"-24 bolts, a couple of regular 3/8"-24 nuts and two 3/8"-24 coupling nuts. Even though I don't plan to use this torque converter, I didn't want to risk the stock converter getting dammage by it possibly slipping out of my hands and hitting the floor.
Transmission I.D. tag located on right side, just behind the bell housing.
There are two primary versions of this transmission. One is designed to fit 'Windsor' style blocks: this includes 240/300, mid-'65-'68 289, all 302/5.0L, 351W/5.8L , 351C, 3.8L V6 and 4.2L V6 engines. The other 4R70W is designed for 4.6L/5.4L Modular Ford engine blocks. --the bell housings are integral and do not unbolt.
In the following photo, I have two arrows pointing to the bolt holes for the starter. If there are (2) starter bolt holes, the transmission is compatible with a 'Windsor' style block pattern.
If there are (3) starter bolt holes, the 4R is for a 4.6L/5.4L engine.
New User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Thank you for all the info you have posted on your 4r70w and truck. I am a novice mechanic but want to do the same swap into my 88 F150 351w w/ c6. Any extra pictures/tips/tricks would be phenomenal! I can't find enough information on this swap.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Links to In formation on the 4R70W
When I initially bought my truck 5 years ago, I had the notion I was going to install an '88-'93 AOD --even though I'm not really crazy about that transmission (I currently have a C-4). However, after doing a lot of reading/research on the AOD, AODE and the 4R70W, it was clear to me the 4R70W was a much superior transmission to the AOD and the AODE and that's what I decided to get.
From an installation and expense stand-point, the AOD is 'simpler/easier' but, the 4R70W has capabilities way beyond the AODE and even more so than the old AOD. If you're spreading your cost out over time, like I am, the added expense on the front end isn't bad compared to the advantages the 4R70W will give over the long run, after its installation is complete.
I've never rebuilt an automatic, let alone a 4-speed electronically-shifted transmission but, there's a lot of information about this transmission on the internet plus, I have the Ford Service Department transmission rebuild manuals and many of the service department transmission tools for the 4R70W (bought them off ebay).
There's a lot of good information located here:
1. TCCoA Tech Articles
2. 4R70W Automatic Transmission
3.BEC AODE & 4R70W Information
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,038
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From: Southern AB
D
New User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Any idea on how hard the 4r70w internal swap to an AOD? I don't know if it would be easier to avoid the electronic controller that route or not. Maybe more advantageous for adjustments? And thank you for the links!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Putting the internals of a 4R70W into an AOD would give you the better wide ratio gearing of a 4R70W but, you would not be able to selectively turn the lockup converter on/off (the 4R70W transmission converter (bell) housing is around 7/8" deeper than the AOD to accommodate for the thicker 4R70W converter).
You would also not be able to tailor the shift points or line pressures through a shift controller head unit like you would with an actual 4R70W transmission. If you needed to tweak the shifting of the AOD, it means you're going to have dump the transmission oil, drop the pan and pull the valve body out to modify it (messy and a hassle if you had to do this anytime you wanted to make a change in the way the transmission shifts and when).
The (Baumann) stand-alone shift controller for a 4R70W comes with two settings --a stock shift setting and a 'performance' shift setting, which you can randomly switch between stock or performance. The performance setting can be tweaked to change shift points and line pressures and then saved at those settings --you can alter it and save new settings at anytime without ever touching the transmission.
The 4R70W could also be setup to be a 'manual' automatic with paddle shifters on the steering wheel or, whatever your imagination might come up with as a means to upshift or downshift the transmission with. Or, it can be setup to work as a normal automatic that shifts on its own or, you can switch back and forth between 'manual' automatic or fully-automatic shifting.