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Got a call from Dave, looks like a bad batch of parts were used in the 320... They will be replacing the unit soon. Glad to see that a principal in the company stepped up to handle this.
Hopefully they get your unit fixed correctly...and send 1/2 your money back for your troubles.
Good thread. After reading through and given how my daughter uses her truck (and her finances), I was going to buy a replacement 140 from Ford with the possibility that the 110 is also shot. So when I called Ford, $345 for the 140 new with a $79 core? Core on a new alt and $345? Is that normal for Ford or maybe just the dealer local to me?
Good thread. After reading through and given how my daughter uses her truck (and her finances), I was going to buy a replacement 140 from Ford with the possibility that the 110 is also shot. So when I called Ford, $345 for the 140 new with a $79 core? Core on a new alt and $345? Is that normal for Ford or maybe just the dealer local to me?
Yea that doesn't sound right. A new unit should not require a core.
Check out AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake Minn. I live in Pa and get all my Ford parts through them. You can go on fordparts.com and make them your home dealer and get much better prices.
I have dual alts. so I can't compare with yours, but for my truck there are some new available and some re manufactured.
Yea that doesn't sound right. A new unit should not require a core.
Check out AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake Minn. I live in Pa and get all my Ford parts through them. You can go on fordparts.com and make them your home dealer and get much better prices.
I have dual alts. so I can't compare with yours, but for my truck there are some new available and some re manufactured.
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Looks like White Bear is only selling remans and wants a $75 core charge as well. I have dual alts as well 140 on top 120 lower according to the parts page on AutoNation.
Great link thanks. Local dealer, $313. AutoNation $229. Quite a difference.
We could also get you the rock-solid 185 amp OEM series from DC Power for $309.95 delivered with no core charge. These are in-stock, ready to roll and put out 100 amps at hot idle. Give us a shout at 515-897-4459 if that could help you.
We could also get you the rock-solid 185 amp OEM series from DC Power for $309.95 delivered with no core charge. These are in-stock, ready to roll and put out 100 amps at hot idle. Give us a shout at 515-897-4459 if that could help you.
Thanks Ed. But you have to understand my daughter. The truck either runs or doesn't run. Given that, I try to keep it as stock as possible since if per chance it failed and she's a couple thousand miles away, it would then have an autozone or Ford replacement anyway. Absolutely clueless about what cars and trucks need or should have and why maintenance is necessary. Drives me nuts. Also, still haven't pulled the alternators (heavy rain today) to have them tested and hence may need to replace both. I wish the ScanGauge had a voice out feature - CHANGE YOUR OIL TODAY OR THE TRUCK IS GOING TO DIE would be the first thing I'd program into it.
That said, I think a FICM is going to be headed your way shortly.
Well, turned sunny and pulled both alternators. Took them to two places for a bench test. Lower alternator failed at both stores. Upper failed at only one store and only once out of two tries.
Background is that I drove it to work one day and the voltage started jumping between 11.6 and 13.7. Then the battery light went on and the voltage stayed at 11.6. Tested the batteries and passenger side had 4 dead cells. Ford said they were original batteries.
Put two new Motorcraft batteries in and started her up. Bingo - 14.5 volts after glow plugs shut off. Drove it 20 minutes and back down to battery voltage with the battery light on the dash coming on.
It's my daughters truck. I'd go for a better quality set of alternators but I haven't been able to keep it going long enough since a coolant flush to tell whether or not it might need head gaskets - it has been losing coolant but I found a pinhole leak in the lower radiator hose. Even with that fixed, still losing coolant. Oil cooler is at 10 degree differential so who knows how long that will last. So, I at this point, I'm thinking local rebuilds. Given how much she may be facing in additional repairs.
Well, turned sunny and pulled both alternators. Took them to two places for a bench test. Lower alternator failed at both stores. Upper failed at only one store and only once out of two tries.
Background is that I drove it to work one day and the voltage started jumping between 11.6 and 13.7. Then the battery light went on and the voltage stayed at 11.6. Tested the batteries and passenger side had 4 dead cells. Ford said they were original batteries.
Put two new Motorcraft batteries in and started her up. Bingo - 14.5 volts after glow plugs shut off. Drove it 20 minutes and back down to battery voltage with the battery light on the dash coming on.
It's my daughters truck. I'd go for a better quality set of alternators but I haven't been able to keep it going long enough since a coolant flush to tell whether or not it might need head gaskets - it has been losing coolant but I found a pinhole leak in the lower radiator hose. Even with that fixed, still losing coolant. Oil cooler is at 10 degree differential so who knows how long that will last. So, I at this point, I'm thinking local rebuilds. Given how much she may be facing in additional repairs.
You could always take a stab and doing a rebuild on these two units yourself using the link a few posts ago for parts. I'm not nearly as worried about inadequate alternator output for the dual alternator guys. Could save you a few nickels.
You could always take a stab and doing a rebuild on these two units yourself using the link a few posts ago for parts. I'm not nearly as worried about inadequate alternator output for the dual alternator guys. Could save you a few nickels.
Thanks Ed, not sure what I'm going to do yet. Are you talking about the Fordparts.com link? Couldn't find another one. As it turns out, the lower seems to be higher priced than the upper. Go figure. Berarings are shot on the lower. The charging system problems happened while I was in the middle of trying to figure out if the truck needs head gaskets or coolers. Put a stop to that testing. If she's facing other major repairs, then I'm not sure what she will do.
Thanks Ed, not sure what I'm going to do yet. Are you talking about the Fordparts.com link? Couldn't find another one. As it turns out, the lower seems to be higher priced than the upper. Go figure. Berarings are shot on the lower. The charging system problems happened while I was in the middle of trying to figure out if the truck needs head gaskets or coolers. Put a stop to that testing. If she's facing other major repairs, then I'm not sure what she will do.
I understand about the local availability of a replacement unit vs a DC Power unit. Note, though, that if you go this self-rebuild route, you'll be in the same boat either way - paying cash for a replacement alternator if your rebuild or the DC Power unit fails.
What loads of guys do is hang onto their old alternator as a backup or even something to swap back into when the truck is sold one day, moving the high output alternator onto the next truck.
Got an email on Monday from DC, offered me a faster turnaround if I chose a red or black... I didn't want that since most my accessories under the hood are all done in blue. The wait time is about 3 plus weeks for powder coating, so I guess I'll wait. BTW when it does come back it will be a 270amp, as the 320's are a problem.
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