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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Which DC Power Alternator??

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Old Sep 19, 2014 | 03:55 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by FICMrepair.com
Wow guys - to say I'm amazed at the product quality issues is an understatement. We still have yet to have even one issue. I guess I don't know what to say.

Re: product availability. We stock the DC Power alternators - the 185's, the 190HD's, the 250HD's, the 270XP's, and even the 370XP's. We also now stock our own version of the cable kits - offering the 'base' 1/0 kit that includes the fuse-protected wire from the passenger battery to the alternator along with the ground cable, but now also including as options a 4/0 cable as a beefier battery interconnect option, and a fuse protected connection from the alternator to the driver side battery.

Hope this helps someone. I have the 270XP unit in my truck and have been absolutely thrilled with it.
Are you taking the warranty claims/repairs? I would bet that they are calling DC Power directly as most guys know you sell there product, not fix it.

Curious to know why you started making your own cable kits?
 
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 01:08 PM
  #77  
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Probably to do it right. I went to DC power because I was only seeing 13.5 volts on the scan gauge. At the battery it did show 14.1 . So the owner put on another cable to the passenger side battery. It only boosted it .1 volt. But he didn't use a fuse either, its direct. He said not to worry, I'm not sure on this one. I know you loose .5 volts threw the scan gauge II but don't know why you should. Other then that I have no problems.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 01:28 PM
  #78  
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You need to measure the battery on the charge lead voltage don't you? The batteries attenuate the voltage, they are a voltage sink, to the alternator. The charge lead should be able to be pushing 14.4 to 14.8 volts. This will only be if the sensing voltage is low enough to have the alternator charging at a maximum. Remember at the OBD2 port, there is two batteries attenuating the voltage, at the batteries you might see 13.5 volts, at OND2 maybe 13.2. That is what I am seeing on my 230 amp.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 01:31 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by mhoefer
You need to measure the battery on the charge lead voltage don't you? The batteries attenuate the voltage, they are a voltage sink, to the alternator. The charge lead should be able to be pushing 14.4 to 14.8 volts. This will only be if the sensing voltage is low enough to have the alternator charging at a maximum. Remember at the OBD2 port, there is two batteries attenuating the voltage, at the batteries you might see 13.5 volts, at OND2 maybe 13.2. That is what I am seeing on my 230 amp.
The voltage is lower at the OBD port via the PCM because of voltage drop thru several dozen feet of 12-16 gauge wiring.

Josh
 
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 01:48 PM
  #80  
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The DC power battery cables are a nice set. Probably made cheaper if you had the right tools to make the crimps. My bet is that people complained it took 3-4 weeks to get them, why he's stocking up on alternators.

I sell chainsaw parts on-line and know that a bad supplier of a certain product can kill your business. Stocking up on that product limits the amount of pain a customer feels.... doesn't fix the supplier, they think they're doing a good job because you keep ordering OR they really don't care. What I'm beginning to believe as they are not improving in delivery speed or from some of these posts, quality. Real shame, there business ethics are killing them.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 05:57 PM
  #81  
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Bullit, I do understand that, but I don't think many understand why their alternator is putting out 14.4 - 14.8 volts, but at the battery you might see high 13s. To really test what the alternator is doing a DC clamp meter is needed at the charge cable to see amps it is pushing. I am thinking that sometimes the voltage folks see at the battery is deceiving them into thinking the alternator is not working properly....
 
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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 06:25 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by mhoefer
Bullit, I do understand that, but I don't think many understand why their alternator is putting out 14.4 - 14.8 volts, but at the battery you might see high 13s. To really test what the alternator is doing a DC clamp meter is needed at the charge cable to see amps it is pushing. I am thinking that sometimes the voltage folks see at the battery is deceiving them into thinking the alternator is not working properly....
The only way one would see higher voltage at the alternator and less at the battery is a very corroded, damaged charge cable. The voltage drop from the charge lug to the battery should be less than .001 voltage drop for that short of a wiring run.

As a side point, the 6.4 alternator will not work properly. The 6.4 Alternator VR is PCM controlled (no biggie) but is Pulse Width Modulated via PCM controlled...

It would work somewhat, in that the VR would default to 13.2-13.5 volts and no more.

Back to the drawing board.....

Josh
 
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Old Sep 25, 2014 | 09:42 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by LivingLarge
No joke bud, I'm sitting at the performance place waiting for them to swap it and yes my range bag is in the Ex loaded with big caliber only for today's de-stressing session 9mm just ain't gonna do it today.
Tic-Toc, Tic-Toc, Tic-Toc....
 
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Old Sep 25, 2014 | 09:50 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by LivingLarge
This is what they sent me before sending mine back.
320 SPX-i test - Dino - YouTube
Advertised as 320 amps, but managed 307 amps at nearly 11,000 alternator RPM, which is roughly 5,500 engine RPM.

Basically a worthless alternator for a diesel unless an extremely small diameter pulley is used.

I was leaning towards a DC 250 HD alternator, but after all this plus their horrible warranty and customer service, I am edging towards MechMan or Singer unit for a 200+ amp alternator.

Josh
 
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Old Sep 25, 2014 | 10:04 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
Advertised as 320 amps, but managed 307 amps at nearly 11,000 alternator RPM, which is roughly 5,500 engine RPM.

Basically a worthless alternator for a diesel unless an extremely small diameter pulley is used.

Josh
You would think since its specific for the 6.0 they would know this.
For now I'm sticking to my stocker, will use the DC as backup for my long trips only. Hope to get it back this year
 
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Old Oct 3, 2014 | 11:32 AM
  #86  
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October 3rd and tic-toc tic-toc some more.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2014 | 12:25 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by LivingLarge
October 3rd and tic-toc tic-toc some more.
I ordered a custom 240 amp from Mechman... Mostly due to DC's bad rep for service

Josh
 
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Old Oct 3, 2014 | 07:26 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
I ordered a custom 240 amp from Mechman... Mostly due to DC's bad rep for service

Josh
You installed it yet? Mine lasted 4 months before failing and Mechman said that a lock washer gave out so i'll give them the benefit of the doubt as to the quality of the rest of it. Will have it reinstalled next week.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2014 | 07:52 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by schmidt64
You installed it yet? Mine lasted 4 months before failing and Mechman said that a lock washer gave out so i'll give them the benefit of the doubt as to the quality of the rest of it. Will have it reinstalled next week.
I ordered it Sunday afternoon, 5 day build and then shipping. I expect the alternator Tuesday or Wednesday.

Which Mechman did you get? G Series, S Series or Elite? They have the G Series in 240 amp and 270 amp and the S Series in 170 amp and 240 amp and Elite in 370 amp.

I ordered the S Series 240 amp with hairpin stator, twin rectifier and 12 diodes.

Josh
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 10:56 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
I ordered a custom 240 amp from Mechman... Mostly due to DC's bad rep for service

Josh
Let us know how it turns out
 
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