The tube is kinda round-ish, but mostly flat-ish in that area. I was going to get in touch with you about this part, since I want to polish the tube, paint the "CUMMINS TURBO DIESEL" bright red, and then PC it with a clear to keep from losing it's shine. Not sure if I want it mirror polished, or brushed. Kinda leaning towards the brushed look, as it will easy to do the same on the turbo housing.


BTW, that turbo looks to have been replaced somewhat recently......




As for the pedal stuff, feel free to post it here if you want. My PM box is getting full, again........


Deflating tires is common around there. That's step one when doing under hood work on a diesel truck, that's going to take more than just a few minutes. Makes it MUCH easier lean over the radiator support......

 

We can see about milling it, but if the sides aren't flat then it won't be easy to clamp it to the table. And, we can PC it clear, for sure.

 

It starts as round where it connects to the turbo, but is mostly square across the top. The intake side, is pretty well flat, since the intake hole is rectangular.

Will clear PC go over paint ok? Or will I need to paint after the PC? Kinda thinking of doing the valve covers in a brushed alum look, with clear to seal them. They are cast alum, might as well make them look like it.
There is a couple places that sell finned top valve covers for these, but at ~$50 each ($300) that's a bit over the top.
I can see making it look good, but not at that price...... As the saying goes "Chrome won't get ya home".......

 

I can see you buying a few flap wheels/discs....

 

The paint has to handle 425 degrees w/o charring, out-gassing, etc. But a high-temp paint will work well. Here's what I would suggest:

1. Blast the covers and the tube, assuming we can get it in the cabinet
2. Mill and/or otherwise remove the lettering
3. Sand the parts to give the brushed look if that's what you want
4. Clean them with brake cleaner
5. Paint the lettering with high-temp paint
6. Bake them in the oven at 400 for an hour to drive out any impurities in the pores and to cure the paint
7. Wash them with brake cleaner - except for the paint
8. Coat it with powder and bake it in the oven

 

These BD 12V Cool Covers for Dodge Cummins
are pretty, but pricey.......

 

Do yours have the ridges?

 

No, they're plain. They're probably too thin to mill ridges in them too......

 

Then they'll look good natural aluminum.

 

Yepperz, that's why I wanted to do them that way.
Still can't decide whether to leave the engine black, as per OEM, or go red like the newer Cummins are. Black hides oil leaks, sometimes a bit too well. Red highlights oil leaks, even the tiniest of them.
The truck is red, so red on the engine may be a bit too much. Leaving it black, on the other hand, will really make the aluminum and red accents "pop". For this reason, black is starting to become more desirable. That, and I may not need to do much spraying once it's all cleaned up....... I think most of the oily mess on it is from the front crank seal, which I planned to change anyways, along with a rear crank seal, mainly because there's no better time to do either.

I was surprised to find a block heater installed, as these usually don't need one. Even more surprising, the power cord was in that bundle of wiring. I may not use it much, if ever, but I'll at least hook it up. That way when it's really cold outside, I can have some warmth for defroster action much quicker than without the heater.

Should be pretty easy to hook up the PS pump. It's a Saginaw pump, and some Fords used this type of pump, so a hose shouldn't hard to come by.
The vacuum pump is a dual diaphram type with two 3/8" outlets. That should be more than enough to run the vacuum booster.


Not sure which way I'm going as far as injectors are concerned. I have found several options for "40hp" thru "60hp" injectors for the same, or in some cases less, than stock replacements. Stock would likely be more than enough for my needs, but the bigger injectors can often yield a bit of an increase in MPG, when driven with restraint. Just have to do a bit more research on the various brands to see which ones tend to be the most durable.

Turbo looks to be fairly new, and has no shaft play. While it's a bit smaller than those used on the later 12V engines, it doesn't have a wastegate, and should spin up quicker. Boost and EGT guages will be added to help prevent damaging the engine when I do get a little happy with the go pedal, and I'm sure that will happen on occasion...... No point in trying to deny it.

 

Vacuum for climate control?

Isn't Hydroboost incredibly simple to retrofit to these trucks?
The Sag's in Lincoln's etc... ran hydroboost brakes because there was no room for a diaphragm booster.

 

No factory A/C, means no vacuum needed for climate controls. Dealer installed A/C is a self contained in-dash unit, with it's own separate blower, meaning the non-A/C heater box gives way more clearance for turbo/exhaust, and allows more area for the air intake/filter options.

Hydroboost is pretty easy to retrofit, but it would require a different PS resivoir, with dual return line fittings, and complicate the PS hose needs.
Plus, the PS pump is mounted to the back of the vacuum pump, which is gear driven by the engine. There are vacuum pump delete kits, but they cost extra money, kinda like the hydroboost retrofit......

Space for the booster won't be an issue, and both the booster and master cyl are fairly new. Being a F150, I don't think hydroboost is really going to be needed. In fact, should the vacuum pump prove to be less than ideal for powering the booster, I could always convert to non-power brakes, not that I really want to......

 

Sorry, I don't know anything about how Dodge/Cummins engines front dress is set up.

Thanks for taking the time to explain.

 

No problem. I don't expect everyone to know how these things are setup, which is why I try to explain stuff in greater detail.

If you look close, you can see the vac/PS pump assembly on the lower front backside of the engine, right below an open hole, where the injection pump goes. Both of these are gear driven with their own gears meshed to the cam gear, which is a reverse rotation gear, since it is driven directly by the crank.
The oil pump is also gear driven by the crank, and sits under the front cover on the other side.

 

The blocke heater saves the starter too, as it can get pretty hard to crank when cold enough. Now that the 92 has about 300,000 miles on the Cummins, it does get a little touchy when cold. By cold, I mean below -10F.

For the power steering hose, I went with the factory Dodge hose and then replaced one end with a 5/16" end. Not sure what all you have available, but most shops that can make hoses will have this end. I have a local farm shop that has all the ends available put the end on. The straight pipe works out pretty good for the new application. The Ford piece goes down beside the steering gear, the straight pipe helps with the length as well. I did it initially with the hose that came with the motor, and when the hose failed, we put one other on and it hasn't had any further issues.The hose itself failed, the pipe ends were fine.